Upper Mustang Boutique & Heritage Lodge Jeep Safaris
Nepal Himalaya Luxury, Boutique & Traditional Heritage Tours

Upper Mustang Heritage Luxury or Traditional Lodge Jeep Safari – Nepal Himalaya Journey
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House 
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa, and one (or more) visa-sized photos (inquire if we need for your trek); please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions!

Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m (2625′) | Transfer Lakeview Resort, Hotel Barahi or Temple Tree Resort
You’ll start your Upper Mustang journey with a short, scenic 20-minute flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the plane, look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. You will transfer to the wonderful Hotel Barahi just off Lakeside Road, with a spa, a lovely pool and beautifully designed rooms.

Enjoy the afternoon in relaxing Pokhara; wander the shore of Phewa Lake, go paragliding or zip-lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views (or bike around the lake and to the stupa, a challenging ride), enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the pool, you might want to bring a swimsuit with a book. We recommend Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just up Lakeside Road. (B)

Extra Acclimatization Day (Lower Mustang) – Fly Jomsom 2720m (8925′). Drive Muktinath, Lubra, Muktinath Temple Complex & (optional) Tiri.  Kagbeni 2900m (9512”) (Red House)
An early morning transfer to Pokhara airport for the spectacular 20-minute mountain flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang and the start of our Nepal trek into Upper Mustang. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, note the panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

You’ll meet your Mustangi guide at the Jomsom airport, and will be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by handlooms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. (I have to keep this description as we got such a good laugh out of it in 2022, greeted by the sound (and smells) of tractors, buses and jeeps!). After breakfast in Jomsom, you’ll drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni to begin your Himalayan journey. . The village of Tiri Gaon is set on the west bank of the river, part of Lower Mustang, and you have plenty of time to take a short detour to visit this remote village. The road follows a road above the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed and provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif.Visit Muktinath and Bon-pa Lubra village. After breakfast, you’ll drive north to Muktinath, where you have plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere of this Hindu and Buddhist temple complex. The drive up to Muktinath takes you past traditional villages, a patchwork of fields, Buddhist monasteries, and the ponds of Lower Mustang.

Muktinath Comlex 3900m (12,792m)
Spend a few hours visiting the Muktinath Temple Complex with the Nepali and Indian pilgrims, and the many saffron-clad saddhus. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows’ heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai Buddhist temple with a perpetual spouting flame, and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. Descending the 300-something steps that you walked up, you will pass through Ranipauwa where there is lots of local shopping, and yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold.

On the way back to Kagbeni, you’ll take a left turn, driving about 1 km up the intersecting riverbed, and visit little-visited Lubra, Mustang’s renown Bon-po village. “The people of Lubra, who believe the village was founded in the late 12th century, have preserved their traditional way of life. A village of just fourteen families, Lubra is one of the few fully Bon villages in Nepal. According to local legend, the Bon Lama Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen came from Tibet via Dolpo and subdued the unruly local spirits, allowing the area to become suitable for human settlement. He planted a walnut tree as a divination to determine whether a village would flourish there. The ancient, gnarled walnut tree survives to this day.

Once tamed, the most powerful spirit among them hollowed out a sunny meditation cave on the hillside opposite the Panda Khola from modern-day Lubra as an offering to Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen, so he would have a suitable place for his practice. The name ‘Lubra’ refers to uniquely textured cliffs on that side of the Panda Khola, which look like snakeskin, spread out and frozen in time on the rock face. Serpentine naga spirits are known as ‘lu’ in the local Mustangi dialect of Tibetan, and ‘bra’ (also pronounced ‘dak’), means rock cliffs.

Traditionally, the people of Lubra built their houses with combined techniques of stacked foundation stones and rammed earth walls, topped with earthen roofs. As in other Baragaon and Thakali villages, they plaster the outer walls with red and white clay for decoration, and store firewood on the top edges of their flat roofs. Lubra belongs to one of the nineteen villages of the Baragaon region of Lower Mustang, which is commonly misunderstood to mean the “twelve villages” that lie above Jomsom and below Lo Manthang (now referred to as Upper Mustang). Baragaon is a Nepali mispronunciation of the Mustangi word Bar Gun, which means “the area in between,” referring to the region sandwiched between Lo Manthang above and the Thak Khola Valley below.

As all over the Himalayas, climate change has altered the water cycle, and overgrazing on the slopes above the Panda Khola has reduced the capacity of the mountainside to retain water, resulting in the loss of top soil due to erosion and more intense higher-level flooding. In the past five years or so, glacial runoff has been increasing rapidly, eating away at agricultural fields along the river bed. Nowadays, during flash floods, the river violently carves away at the banks below the village, causing field edges to be lost to the torrent. During the summer monsoon of 2017, dozens of square meters of farmland were washed away, along with a 70-year-old chorten, an important local religious monument.

Recently, the families of Lubra organized a community homestay project called Mustang Bon Homestay Village, to support the preservation of the unique culture and traditions of Mustang, which are slowly being lost due to the pressures of modernization and emigration abroad. By offering visitors homestay accommodations in the village, the community hopes to create an economic incentive for young entrepreneurs to both remain in the village and maintain local cultural and agricultural practices by involving visitors in unique local experiences. Examples of such experiences include participating in local dancing, mask dancing, cultural songs, and learning alongside traditional agricultural practices, which include planting and harvesting buckwheat, barley, maize, millet, potatoes, and other vegetables, kidney beans, fruit trees such as apricots, walnuts, and apples, and animal husbandry with goats, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, and dzo, the common cross between a male yak and cow, which is more suited to the altitude and climate.

In the center of Lubra village stands Yungdung Phuntsok Ling, an ancient Bon monastery with unique wall paintings and statues, where a five-day masked dancing festival occurs every September or October, depending on the lunar calendar. There are other Bon monasteries in Lower Mustang, such as in Kobang and Naurikot, but none are maintained in the ancient traditional way of hereditary priesthood such as in Lubra, where the eldest son of every family must strictly perform ritual duties and participate in prayers on auspicious days throughout the year. Due to this system, the local traditions have been well maintained in a way that is uncommon in the modern Himalayas.

When visiting Lubra, one should make time to sit in the small Bon temple on the mountainside above the village, called Gon Phuk, which means “winter cave.” It is the site of one of the natural meditation caves where the founder of Lubra village spend many years in meditation retreat, which was later developed into a temple. From the temple, one can climb to see ancient meditation caves on the rock cliffs above the village, which are seldom visited.. – Inside, Himalaya. “Lubra, the Hidden Bon Village of Lower Mustang” (https://www.insidehimalayas.com/lubra-hidden-bon-village-lower-mustang/)

Take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guie checks you into the restricted Upper Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet. Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley, and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sakya Gonpa (monastery), 800 years old. Wander past the ancient, crumbling, 100-room King’s Palace, and hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint at the end of town to enjoy the fantastic views Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri. Your lodge, Red House, is a wonderful traditionally styled but boutique hotel in the heart of Muktinath, with big windows and lots of Mustangi light! (B, L, D)
3 hour driving + extra sightseeing time

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m (8922’). Drive Kagbeni & Chhusang 2955m (9695′) (Bhirkuti Guest House) | Explore Tetang 2955m (9695′)
Up early for the spectacular mountain flight to the district headquarters of Mustang, Jomsom. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans. From the airport enjoy the fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

After breakfast at Trekkers Inn in Jomsom (where you stay when you return, unless you’ve upgraded to Om’s Home next door), you’ll drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m). The jeep track follows the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guide checks you into restricted Upper Mustang.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka Gompa, 800 years old. We’ll also wander past the ancient, crumbing, 100-room King’s Palace. At the police check post at the north end of the village where a sign reads ‘Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point’. You can hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint to enjoy the fantastic views over the patchwork of fields in Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Back in the jeeps, continue the drive above the Kali Gandaki on the plateau above the riverbed, all the time with magnificent vistas. You will drive north past the red, white, and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m), a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat, and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with a salt mine two hours up the Nari Khola river valley, past Tetang. The salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of these villages came from this trade.

Across the Kali Gandaki, high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to seventeenth centuries. The historian Gucci believes these caves to have been homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit monks as retreats. Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently, and many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests, and plentiful game to hunt.

Chhusang 2955m (9695′)
Your first lodge stay is in the lively village of Chhusang, at Bhirkuti Guest House. Enjoy the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang with your guide, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon. You have the rest of the day to hike up to Tetang, 15-minutes upriver from camp (generally, sandals for crossing the small Nari Khola) – or you can have your driver drive you to Tetang along the opposite side of the river.

Tetang 2955m (9695′)
Tetang is an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago, we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic and timeless village with lively (and funny) inhabitants, which loses the sun before 5 pm. Watch village life unfold in the afternoon, as the animals are brought back to the village. Above Tetang are many multi-hued chortens that mark the entrance to this remote village from the Annapurna side, a long mani wall, green, terraced fields of buckwheat and barley, and the ancient Tetang Dzong and Tetang Monastery. (2 hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: 23.5km driving

Day 5 – Drive Samar & Geling or Tamagaon 3700m (12,136′) | Cross Dajori La 3610m (11,845′) & Shyangboche La 3825m (12,495′) | Trek Chungsi Caves & Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,497’) (Kunga Hotel)
Your journey further into fabled Upper Mustang, Nepal, continues! Back in the jeep, you’ll cross the river just below a naturally formed tunnel (from a rock-fall) through which the Kali Gandaki flows. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves.

Tsaile 3060m (10,036′)
You’ll drive up the rocky hillside to the village of Tsaile (3060m) just above us on the plateau, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks.

Samar 3600m (11,808′)
Next on your jeep safari, the winding ascent up to the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail meandering its way towards Samar. You’ll drive past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung, Bon-po village of Ghyakar, with its pink flowering apricot orchards (the seeds brought over from Ladakh), the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend to the Dajori La pass, marked by rock cairns. Lovely Samar (3605m), a green village with poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag (tarchok) on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. You might stop for a cup of tea at The Annapurna Lodge, one of our favorite lodges owned by good friend Namygal Gurung, the headman of the village (until 2022) and his lovely wife. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, later became one of our guides and is now living in New York City. The Kamzang Fund also sponsors Tenzing Doma, a lovely girl from Samar, and you could stop by to see her parents in their traditional home on the right of the long mani wall.

The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks.

Drive Chungsi Caves 3425m (1,234”) | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m
Those wanting to drive most of the route to the Chungsi Caves will stay in the jeeps and continue on the switchbacking road over the Bhena La and the Yamda La passes, staying at relatively the same altitude between passes. Once over second pass, the jeep takes a sharp right and continues down the jeep trail to the northern side of the Chungsi Caves trail. You’ll get out of the jeep and hike along the trail for about 10 minutes before climbing the many steps to the cave. Keep an eye out for blue sheep, as well as snow leopard prints and markings in this valley.

The Chungsi Caves, about 250 steps uphill, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and other Buddhist statues. A previous caretaker was a monk from Tibet who had been living in the cave for 2+ years many years ago, and the newer caretaker is also a Tibetan monk. (See page 144, Tucci).

Back down the steps, meet the main trail and begin to hike up through the canyon, looking for the many nests of Himalayan griffins high up in the cliff-faces noticeable from the white below them (guano, vulture droppings) as well as these majestic birds, with their three-meter wingspans, circling high above us. You’ll meet your jeep after about 20 minutes of hiking past the caves steps.

Trek Chungsi Caves 3425m (11,340′) | Cross Chungsi La 3810m (12,496′) (Optional)
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, we exit through the ‘kane’ chorten, cleansing ourselves as we pass through, and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola. We cross on a new suspension bridge, after which we have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. After a break at the plateau, we take the right fork and trek past a small doska (seasonal herding settlement, kharka in Nepali), and continue to climb and contour for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), about 350 meters of climbing. From the cairns at the top of the pass we are treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

See Chungsi Caves info above …

Shyangboche 3765m (12,349′) & Geling 3565m (12,136′)
You’ll drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. Stop for lunch in Syangboche, at the first Tibetan lodge on the left, enjoying spectacular Annapurna views from the slate deck. After lunch, a very short drive to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village where you’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet. After lunch, descend gradually on the new road, crossing a small stream and ascending on the eastern road to Geling, a picturesque village always bustling with local life, the white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Above Geling is the newly renovated brick-red Geling Gompa, its protector chapel above, and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, a fascinating and atmospheric monastery. Across the road to the west are the ruins of an old ‘dzong’ (or fortress, also called ‘khar’ in Tibetan) and ani-gompa (nunnery). In Geling, you will stay for the night in Kunga Hotel, one of Mustang’s traditional-style lodges. (B, L, D)

Day 6 – Drive Ghemi & Tsarang 3570m (11,710′) | Cross Syangboche La 3825m (12,550′) & Nyi La 4010m (13,155′) | via Chortens & Mani Wall & Cross Tsarang La 3870m (12,697′) | Visit Lo Gekar & Dhakmar (Maya’s Heritage Inn)
Leaving Geling and driving north, you reach the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m) and continue along a lovely trail amongst rounded granite boulders to the small hamlets of Chhunggar (3750m), with large, colorfully striped chortens at each end of the village. Passing the small hamlet of Zaite (3480m), you are treated to more sublime views of the Himalayan peaks to the south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna I and Tilicho amongst them. Driving up the switchbacks to the Nyi La pass (4010m), you are again treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna I and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages below. More of Upper Mustang opens up in front, including the road from Lo Manthang snaking its way to the border of Tibet.

Ghemi 3750m (12,300′)
Descend on the road from where there are wonderful views to Ghemi La and down to the checkered fields and large, beautiful village of Ghemi. Descend further to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. Your guide will lead you through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa, worth a visit.

Leaving Ghemi, you will cross the Tangmar Chu on a new bridge, and ascend again. The road looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of massive, ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar). An awesome sight!

Dhakmar 3785m (12,420′)
Drive through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, look across the stream to old gompa. The red cliffs, which house Himalayan Griffins and Lammergeyers, are fantastic, and we’re camped in a scenic spot to enjoy the awe-inspiring views! Get out and explore Dhakmar, look out for villagers threshing and sorting flax seed, and wander under the the dramatic red cliffs for the rest fo the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside. ‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ –  Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door.

Lo Gekar 3940m (12,926′)
Just to the east of Tsarang, about 5 km up a valley, is Lo Gekar (3940m), ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley above us. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.

Tsarang 3570m (11,710′)
After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, you’ll drive to Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. After checking into Maya Inn, your guide will lead you on a walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock. Wander through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths at dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378 (after the palace at Lo Manthang), and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang.

Enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Maya and Tsewang’s Maya’s Simkhang (the renovated Maya’s Inn), owned and run by Maya Bista and her brother Tsewang, relatives of the King, the royal palace and gompa visible in the near distance. Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya, and ask to see their family treasures in their shop-show room, also the old family Buddhist prayer room! (B, L, D)

Optional Hike Dhakmar to Tsarang | Cross Dhakmar La 3950m (12,960′)
From Dhakmar, trek up through the fluted hoodoos and craggy spires just north of the village, perhaps a 45-minute climb to reach the plateau about 200 meters above, below the Mui La. The views looking down through the canyons to the terraced fields of Dhakmar, many of them now abandoned, are breathtaking. From the plateau it’s an easy hour walk down the ridge to the valley, where we follow the Tsarang Khola, with scenic Marang across the river. Passing through the patchwork of fields, we soon reach the fortified village of Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. Walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock.

Day 7 – Drive Lo Manthang 3820m (12,533′) | Visit Visit Jampa, Thubchen & Chhoede Buddhist Gonpas (Monasteries) & Lo Manthang Kora (Royal Mustang Resort)
Leaving atmospheric Tsarang, you have a short drive past a massive, newly renovated chorten, cross the small Lo La pass, and finally reach to the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang! You will drive directly to the Royal Mustang Resort, a wonderful luxury and heritage property just outside the city walls. This hotel is owned and operated by Jigme Bista-La, the ruling King of Mustang, and his family, and is decorated in traditional Mustangi textiles, furniture and designs. Your stay in the Royal Mustang Resort is a chance to experience the best of Mustangi culture and cuisine in a luxury resort!

Lo Manthang 3820m (12,533′)
After lunch, start to explore the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. We recommend visiting Pema Bista or Tsewang Bista’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

Spend the rest of the day wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing ‘koras’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty local shops selling goods from Tibet along with an increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!) (B, L, D)

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a goddess to find an auspicious spot, and she landed at the site of the present palace. The summer palace at Tinggar was built later, and was used mostly by the earlier kings during the summer months. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu. Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gonpas (monasteries) and murals in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings.

The Raja’s palace, home to the former King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (from an aristocratic Lhasa family, now living at Royal Mustang Resort), is the largest building inside the city walls. Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (abbot) were allowed to ride. All others had to walk through the gate to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. Former King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, was the last king to reside at the four-storied palace inside the city walls, in disrepair but presently being rebuilt. The king was an avid horseman and kept his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, Lo Gyalpo, the king of Mustang, plays a somewhat ceremonial role although they have always been well-loved and respected throughout Mustang. Jigme-La, the present king of Mustang, is the 27th descendent of Ame Pal.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang is an interesting maze of village lanes to explore, cafes, hotels, shops, stupas and mani walls. The inhabitants of Lo Manthang are called Lo-pas (Lobas). There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry. There are even yeti (known in Mustangi as mehti) prints rumored to be found in the region.

Buddhist Monasteries of Lo Manthang
There are four major monasteries within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang. The 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang, constructed in 1387, is the oldest gonpa, with a striking 50-foot ‘Jampa’ (future) Buddha statue, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago. The 15th c Thubchen Gompa boasts a Great Assembly Hall with pillars 30 feet high, and is the second oldest gonpa in Lo Manthang, with fantastic murals in the dukhang (assembly hall). The Chhoede Gonpa complex, where the present abbot (Kempo) resides, includes a large monastic school, a museum, and the older Choprang Gompa.

Lo Manthang Tiji Festival (Buddhist Lama Dance)
The Tiji festival, held in the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang, is the most auspicious of Upper Mustang’s colorful lama (cham) dances and prayer chants. The festival is a colorful and dramatic celebration of good presiding over evil, the story of Dorje Jono defeating a demon that was destroying the Kingdom of Mustang by taking its precious water source and spreading disease. The lunar Tiji Festival, started in the 17th century, was originally performed at the Royal Palace but is now held at the larger Choede Monastery which has a monastic community of thawas (young monks), monks and lamas. (B, L)
Jigme Bista (Manager & King’s Son) & Jigme-La Bista (King)
15km, 1½ hour driving

Day 8 – Lo Manthang | Visit Namgyal, Tingger & Kimaling Valley (Royal Mustang Resort Deluxe Room)
A fabulous day hike or jeep trip through the Namgyal and Tingger valleys, a trek that will take a good part of the day if you hike, less if you drive. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing through the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, climb up to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa, worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries you soon reach the old capital of Thinggar (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace, now not in top condition. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore.

There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways, continue north for about half an hour (hiking) to lovely Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many foreigners; we’ve met them weaving, washing textiles, herding their sheep and goats and having pujas at the local monastery at the top of town. You might stop for salt-butter tea at a small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple).

You will continue south towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down valley returning Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet. (B, L)
2½ hrs driving & visiting valley

Day 9 – Drive Chhoser Valley 3875m (12,713′) | Visit Jhong Caves, Garphu & Nyiphu Monasteries & Druk Village (Chhoser Cave Inn)
A wonderful couple of days in the Chhoser valley await as you lave Lo Manthang, with the snow peaks bordering Tibet and the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong ahead. Leaving Lo Manthang, you’ll descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road. You will drive along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind, leaving Lo, are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.

Chhoser Valley & Druk Village
The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border. Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and take the trail heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, passing through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, you will hike for another 20 minutes or so before you see the Jhong Caves valley.

Chhoser valley used to be prohibited for foreigners to stay, but has recently opened its doors, making it a unique look into old Mustang. Chhoser village sits below an incredible complex of ancient fortresses, houses and chortens, fabulous in the late afternoon light. There is also a Cave Hotel in Druk to have a look at, just for interest.

Jhong Caves, Nyphu & Garphu Monasteries
After checking into your Chhoser hotel, hike (or drive) for about 15 minutes to the ihe incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong is negotiated by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front of the caves, a range of spectacular snow peaks marks the border with Tibet, and gurgling streams and green meadows line the trails around us. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliff sides, in impossible locations. Locals have told us that they are houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa, which we’ve not ever had the time to visit, but one might in a jeep!

After the Jhong caves, return to visit (we recommend on foot, hiking the small alleys towards Garphu) the Sakya Ngorpa sect Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpcoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ –  Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel

Next, hike to Garphu Gonpa, built in the 9th century and belonging to the Nyimgmapa sect (and associated with Guru Rimpoche). Trekking out of the village past newly painted and rebuild mani walls and chortens, we hike through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards and looking up to more eroded cave complexes. Small alleyways lead us to the iconic Sakya Ngorpa (sect) Nyphu Gompa (3760m), with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas (young monks), and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery that none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ –  Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel

Shija Viewpoint & Druk Hill
Further options for the afternoon; explore the ruins above both sides of Druk village, incredibly scenic with fantastic views up and down the valley. To the north are the sacred ruins of an ochre monastery and dzong, with ancient crumbling chortens and newer prayer flags that we call Druk Hill, equally interesting. (B, L, D)

Day 10 – Drive Lo Manthang | Hike Drakphuk Konchok Ling Cave Monastery (Half Day) | Royal Mustang Resort
You have the opportunity for a morning hike to the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave, if the trail is in good condition (which it was in 2023). This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a set wire (rope), and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. The paintings are very unique and interesting, and the landscape spectacular, well worth the hike up! For those with serious exposure issues, this isn’t the trail for you … The round trip hike should take about 3 hours. After visiting the cave, you’ll descend the same ridge to reach your jeep, and drive back to Lo Manthang where you’ll be back in your lovely rooms at Royal Mustang Resort. (B, L)
1½ hr driving & 3 hrs hiking

Richin Ling Cave (Optional)
One more optional (and incredible) cave complex, which requires a strenuous uphill hike along a ridge in back of Jhong Caves, and then climbing up a roped-together ladder. Not for anyone who has issues with exposure! “The Ritseling Cave is located in Upper Mustang on a peak West of the Konchog Ling Cave. Prior to the last few years it appears as though no one has entered the small cave complex in several hundred years. It has an assortment of murals with a large mandala close to the entrance along with several Buddha figures. Towards the back of the cave there is a mural depicting narrative scenes possibly of one of the occupants of the cave and his travels through Tibet and especially to Lhasa. Various protector deities are found along with a stunning image – large in size – of the nine faced, eighteen armed Garuda. The only other image of this Garuda in a Buddhist context is found in Phyang Monastery, Ladakh, India.” Excerpt from Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

CAVE NOTE | Visiting the sky caves can also be dangerous as trails crumble away, and although the guide for Kamzang Journeys only take travelers to the caves that we deem safe, you are ultimately responsible for the decision to climb into these caves.

Day 11 – Drive Tsarang | via West Nomad Camp 4280m (14,038”) | Visit Tsarang Palace & Monastery | Maya’s Heritage Inn
A wonderful opportunity to visit the beautiful, green nomadic encampment by jeep, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’ from Lo Manthang. The scenic valley is dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Their encampment is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks.

Visit the lively doksa in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. It is quite high and gets cold in the late afternoons. Shopping for textiles is always an option, ask your guide to translate for you, and do have a look (in any case) at the hand-spun, hand-dyed and hand-woven textiles!

All of the nomads were living in the Tibetan borderlands northeast of Lo Manthang, and many families moved to this spot about fifteen years ago to have better access to supplies, schools and medical facilities in Lo Manthang. From the hill between the camps, at the prayer flag, you can look right down to the walled city of Lo Manthang, a great view. Locals from Lo Manthang might come to the doksas to collect the sheep and goat dung that the nomads don’t use. We might get some yogurt from the nomads, delicious and fresh, and we have the opportunity to support the nomads by purchasing their tribal textiles, in wonderful colors and textures, all hand-woven, from the nomads.

One of our favorite weaver, Lhamo Tseten, together with husband Dabla have a son Pema (approx 21) and daughter Dechen Tsomo (approx 23) that we finally met in 2023, when one of their yak had just died in a fight with another yak (they have only yaks). Dechen Tsomo is working towards a bachelor of hotel management in Kathmandu! Lhamo Tseten and Dabla stay over on the other side of the ridge, in the valley closer to Lo Manthang. Another good friend, the lovely Phu Dolma, has 2 sons, and recently lost her mother who we also knew well. Their family has yaks, sheep and goats. Their daughter Sonam Lhagye (14), has been diagnosed with a hole in her heart, and The Kamzang Fund (Nomad Fund) is bringing her to Kathmandu for further examinations, and possibly an operation. In the next higher yak-hair tent lives Choeten and husband Ritan, with a smart daughter Chhime Yangdon (18), still studying at the SOS school in Pokhara in 2023, wanting to study nursing.

NOMADS NOTE | The nomads might be camped in a slightly different location on the plateau, near the ancient, crumbling ruins of once important Samdrupling Gompa (meaning ‘Island of Fulfillment of Aspirations’). Note the extension monastery (or hermitage) in the cliffs.
20km, 3 hours driving

Day 12 – Drive Tangge 3360m (11,025′) | via Yara, Luri Gonpa & Tashi Kabum (Shambala Guest House)
An amazing day today as you visit the village of Yara, followed by the exquisite Luri Gompa cave complex, and then the Tashi Kabum cave. Some of this route can be done in jeep though hiking is also required to reach both caves, and you will have the opportunity to visit beautiful Ghara village as well.

The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever, are one of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

Hike or drive past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. You soon reach the little-visited Tashi Kumbum complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Our lodge owner (when camping in Yara) was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.

Next, a switch backing jeep ride across the river, all the way up the opposite ridge, and then back down, descending through fluted ridges to reach Shambala Lodge in Tangge.

Tangge
You’ll have the afternoon in beautiful Tangge, with Tibetan homes to visit, a preschool in the back of the lodge (we were lucky to have our free day in Tangge during the typhoid vaccination in 2022), a solar shower and nearby taps for washing; overall a wonderful place to relax and catch up on camping life. One of the school girls, Tsering Yangchen, showed us the apricot, walnut and pear trees in town. There is a newly discovered cave with an ancient chorten just a few minutes from the lodge, visible from the scree field below it but essentially unreachable. A young boy from Tangge took us up to the cave in 2019, and was planning to write a book about his community. We help to sponsor some young girls from Tangge, Yangi Lhamo and Tsering Angmo, and you might meet their lovely grandmother. You also have the option to hike up the black dirt hillside across from camp – the Tiri La route – for a short hike, for great views down over Tangge. (B, L, D)
30km, 5-6 hours driving

Day 13 – Drive Jomsom (Om’s Home)
Your last day in the magical, ancient Kingdom of Mustang! You’ll continue the jeep drive back to Jomsom, visiting any of the villages you didn’t do justice to on the way up, and finally reach Jomsom. You spend your last night at Om’s Home, near the airport for an easy departure tomorrow. You have the afternoon free to wander, relax and shop. and enjoy your last evening of Mustangi culture in Jomsom, the capital of Lower Mustang. (B, L, D)
64km, 5 hours driving

TRAVEL NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom, travelers are responsible for their own meals at Om’s Home.

Day 14 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu | Transfer Hotel
You’ll be up early again for the mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. Transfer to the new airport for the short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance. Once back in Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred to your hotel. (B)

Extra Days Pokhara (Hotel Barahi)
You have 2 free days at Hotel Barahi in Pokhara, along Fewa Lake. Enjoy your time in this sub-tropical setting: wander the shore of Fewa Lake, go paragliding or zip-lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views (or bike around the lake and to the stupa, a challenging ride), enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the hotel (bring a swimsuit) with a book. Take a boat ride to Fish Tail Lodge on the opposite side of Fewa Lake for an afternoon drink and a panoramic view of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchre, or ‘Fish Tail’ mountain. Or take a taxi to visit Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge “Located on a ridge half an hour outside Pokhara, the lodge is an ideal base for guests to relax in a rural mountain setting, away from the bustle of Nepal’s cities. With a central lodge, bar and dining room, the comfortable rooms are arranged in clusters of cottages resembling a Nepali village.” Head to Moondance Café or Roadhouse Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, great restaurants just up Lakeside Road. (B)

Day 15 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
We send you off to the airport for your flight home, and hope to see you again soon! Tashi Delek + Namaste! (B)

---

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House (Luxury Rooms)
Welcome to Nepal! You will be met at Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from Kamzang Journeys or Khumbu Adventures (our partners in Kathmandu) Doma, Lhakpa and Nuru Sherpa). Look for a sign with your name on it as you leave the arrival area. We strongly suggest purchasing a NTC (Nepal Telecom) SIM card as you leave the airport if you have an unlocked phone. It’s very useful for data in the remote regions of Nepal. We will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House (or see Great Stays tab for luxury, boutique, and other hotel options in the Kathmandu Valley) where your room has been booked for you. Drink plenty of water to hydrate after your flight, and enjoy your first evening in Kathmandu …

We’ll need your travel medical insurance, a copy of your passport and Nepali visa, and one (or more) visa-sized photos (inquire if we need for your trek); please have them ready to give to Lhakpa, Doma or Nuru. And please ask if you need your gear checked, or have shopping or sightseeing questions!

Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Enjoy dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants … (B)

Traditional Jeep Safaris | Kathmandu Guest House
+ Kathmandu Guest House Standard or Garden Rooms

Day 2 – Kathmandu
Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (See Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepals circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts, often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Pokhara 800m (2625′) | Transfer Temple Tree Resort & Spa or Hotel Barahi
You’ll start your Upper Mustang journey with a short but scenic 20-minute flight to Pokhara, 198 kilometers west of Kathmandu, flying above the rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. From the plane, look down on terraced villages and green hills, with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance, and land in balmy, sub-tropical Pokhara. You will transfer to either the wonderful Temple Tree Resort & Spa or the equally wonderful Hotel Barahi, both set in quiet locations just off Lakeside Road, and both with spas, lovely pools and beautifully designed, traditionally Nepali rooms.

Enjoy the afternoon in relaxing Pokhara; wander the shore of Phewa Lake, go paragliding or zip-lining, wander along the lakeside (Lakeside Road takes you all the way along the southeast side of the lake and there is a beautiful new walking trail right along the lake), rent a bicycle, paddle across the lake to Shanti Stupa and hike up for spectacular views (or bike around the lake and to the stupa, a challenging ride), enjoy a glass of fresh juice while doing some shopping, or just sit and relax at the pool, you might want to bring a swimsuit with a book. We recommend Moondance Cafe for dinner and drinks in the evening, a great restaurant just up Lakeside Road. (B)

Traditional Jeep Safaris | Transfer Lakeview Resort
+ Lakeview Resort Single Upgrade A/C Cottage – $50 (No Charge Double)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrades – $65 Single & $35 Double (Per Person)
+ Temple Tree Upgrades – $90 Single & $45 Double (Per Person)

Day 4 – Fly Jomsom 2720m (8925′). Drive Kagbeni & Chhusang 2955m (9695′) (Brirkuti Guest House)
An early morning transfer to Pokhara airport for the spectacular 20-minute mountain flight to Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang and the start of your trek into Upper Mustang. Once on the ground at one of the world’s most scenic airstrips on the planet, you’ll meet your Mustangi guide. Note the panorama of Himalayan peaks: to the far west, Dhaulagiri, followed by Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli with Annapurna I in back, the sacred Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and perhaps, on a clear day, Manaslu, Peak 29, Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal and Ganesh Himal to the distance to the far east.

You’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by handlooms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. (I have to keep this description as we got such a good laugh in later years, greeted by the sounds and smells of tractors, buses and jeeps!). After breakfast in Jomsom, you will meet your jeep driver and drive up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni (2900m) to begin your Himalayan journey. The road follows a road above the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed and provides views of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Niligiri, and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Once in Kagbeni, take some time to explore this ancient fortress town while your guide will check you into the restricted Upper Mustang region of Nepal, bordering Tibet.

Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley, and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sakya Gonpa (monastery), 800 years old. Wander past the ancient, crumbling, 100-room King’s Palace, and hike up to a great viewpoint above the checkpoint at the end of town to enjoy the fantastic views Kagbeni, and down the valley to Niligiri.

Back in the jeeps, continue the drive above the Kali Gandaki on the plateau above the riverbed, all the time with magnificent vistas. The village of Tiri Gaon is set on the west bank of the river, part of Lower Mustang. You will drive north past the red, white, and black chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m), a labyrinth of narrow alleyways separating white-washed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley, wheat, and apple orchards, unique in Mustang with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper section. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley. Soon past Tangbe, we reach Chhusang (2955m), an interesting Tibetan village with a salt mine two hours up the Nari Khola river valley, past Tetang. The salt trade was of utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the wealth of these villages came from this trade.

Across the Kali Gandaki, high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity but said to have been occupied from the ninth to seventeenth centuries. The historian Gucci believes these caves to have been homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit monks as retreats. Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived in similar caves until recently, and many anthropologists believe that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man from a time when there was much more water, large forests, and plentiful game to hunt.

Your first lodge stay is in the lively village of Chhusang, at Bhrikuti Guest House. Enjoy the rest of the day to wander up the valley past Tetang with your guide, head out to the caves across the river and explore, or sit in Chhusang and watch the world life unfold in the late afternoon. You have the rest of the day to hike up to Tetang, 15-minutes upriver from camp (generally, sandals for crossing the small Nari Khola) – or you can have your driver drive you to Tetang along the opposite side of the river.

Tetang is an endlessly fascinating, fortified village with massive houses pock-marked with old scaffolding holes. The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village, with several families living in this ancient monument. Years ago, we witnessed a village women’s council arguing over the use and shortage of water, a heated discussion. It is an extremely photographic and timeless village with lively (and funny) inhabitants, which loses the sun before 5 pm. Watch village life unfold in the afternoon, as the animals are brought back to the village. Above Tetang are many multi-hued chortens that mark the entrance to this remote village from the Annapurna side, a long mani wall, green, terraced fields of buckwheat and barley, and the ancient Tetang Dzong and Tetang Monastery. (1½ hrs driving) (B, L, D)
Distance: 23.5km Driving, Elevation Gain 758m, Elevation Loss 486m

Day 5 – Drive Tsaile, Samar & Geling 3590m | Cross Dajori La 3610m (11,845′), Chungsi Caves, Geling & Tamagaon 3700m (12,136′) | Cross Shyangboche La 3825m (Kunga Hotel)
Your journey further into fabled Upper Mustang, Nepal, continues! Back in the jeep, you’ll cross the river just below a naturally formed tunnel (from a rock-fall) through which the Kali Gandaki flows. Look above the bridge for views of some of the ancient caves explored in the Peter Athens National Geographic documentaries. The caves are all empty, assumed to be mediation caves, and believed to be haunted by the spirit or zombie of the ‘Chhuksang woman’. Two of the National Geographic explorers were almost fatally injured while exploring these caves. 

You’ll drive up the rocky hillside to the village of Tsaile (3060m) just above us on the plateau, a lively village with extensive wheat and barley fields. The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. 

Next on your jeep safari, the winding ascent up to the Dajori La on a breathtaking trail meandering its way towards Samar. You’ll drive past the long suspension bridge to the Gurung, Bon-po village of Ghyakar, with it’s pink flowering apricot orchards (the seeds brought over from Ladakh), the canyon becoming deeper and more dramatic as we ascend to the Dajori La pass, marked by rock cairns. Lovely Samar (3605m), a green village with poplar groves and flat-roofed houses, was formerly a staging post for Khampa raids into Tibet. There is a vertical Tibetan flag (tarchok) on every rooftop, erected for every member of the village. You might stop for a cup of tea at The Annapurna Lodge, one of our favorite lodges owned by good friend Namygal Gurung, the headman of the village (until 2022) and his lovely wife. His brother Karma used to be our horseman, later became one of our guides and is now living in New York City.  The Kamzang Fund also sponsors Tenzing Doma, a lovely girl from Samar, and you could stop by to see her parents in their traditional home on the right of the long mani wall. 

The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar. These ‘zor’, which date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion, do what they look like they might do: capture evil spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household. You will also see women wearing the Tibetan decorative turquoise, coral, and amber as well as ‘dzis’, ancient protective amulets of agate, which Mustangis believe came from lightening when it falls onto the mountains. The scenery is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan high plateau, and in back of us a chain of Himalayan peaks: Thorung Peak, Khatung Kang, Kangsar Kang, Annapurna l, Tilicho and North Tilicho Peaks and the Niligiri Peaks. 

Drive Chungsi Caves 3425m | Cross Bhene La 3840m & Yamda La 3985m
Those wanting to drive most of the route to the Chungsi Caves will stay in the jeeps and continue on the switchbacking road over the Bhena La and the Yamda La passes, staying at relatively the same altitude between passes. Once over second pass, the jeep takes a sharp right and continues down the jeep trail to the northern side of the Chungsi Caves trail. You’ll get out of the jeep and hike along the trail for about 10 minutes before climbing the many steps to the cave. Keep an eye out for blue sheep, as well as snow leopard prints and markings in this valley.

The Chungsi Caves, about 250 steps uphill, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and other Buddhist statues. A previous caretaker was a monk from Tibet who had been living in the cave for 2+ years many years ago, and the newer caretaker is also a Tibetan monk. (See page 144, Tucci).

Back down the steps, meet the main trail and begin to hike up through the canyon, looking for the many nests of Himalayan griffins high up in the cliff-faces noticeable from the white below them (guano, vulture droppings) as well as these majestic birds, with their three-meter wingspans, circling high above us. You’ll meet our jeeps and drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. 

---

Trek Chungsi Caves | Cross Chungsi La 3810m (Optional)
Passing through the cluster of traditional houses and mani walls of Samar, we exit through the ‘kane’ chorten, cleansing ourselves as we pass through, and descend steeply on a switchbacking trail to the Samarkyung Khola. We cross on a new suspension bridge, after which we have another drop into the next valley, the Jhuwa Khola, and another climb out. After a break at the plateau, we take the right fork and trek past a small doska (seasonal herding settlement, kharka in Nepali), and continue to climb and contour for a short time to the Chungsi La (3810m), about 350 meters of climbing. From the cairns at the top of the pass we are treated to spectacular views down into the deep canyon beyond us, and back over the Annapurnas.

Switchbacking steeply downhill, we drop into this incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful, expansive views as we hike. High above the Kali Gandaki, which snakes its way through the canyons far, far below us, the trail descends steeply, eventually rounding the corner just past our large look-out rock. It doesn’t take long to round the corner and reach the intersection to the sacred Buddhist Chungsi Caves, about 500 meters below the pass.

The Chungsi Caves (3425m), about 250 steps uphill, are one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche’s meditation caves. Inside are fantastic ‘rangjung’ or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens, ‘Tara’s terraced fields’ and other Buddhist statues. A previous caretaker was a monk from Tibet who had been living in the cave for 2+ years many years ago, and the newer caretaker is also a Tibetan monk. (See page 144, Tucci).

Back down the steps, meet the main trail and begin to hike up through the canyon, looking for the many nests of Himalayan griffins high up in the cliff-faces noticeable from the white below them (guano, vulture droppings) as well as these majestic birds, with their three-meter wingspans, circling high above us. You’ll meet our jeeps and drive to the small hamlet of Shyangboche (3765m), originally a seasonal kharka named after a girl called Shyangbo (che means place in Tibetan), passing a small doksas with locals herding their flocks of sheep and goats; watch out for the guard dogs. 

---

Stop for lunch at the first Tibetan lodge on the left, enjoying spectacular Annapurna views from the slate deck. After lunch, a very short drive to the Shyangboche La (3825m), just 50 meters above the village where you’ll stop for photos of the dramatic Himalayan vista, including Annapurna I, Niligiri and the peaks north bordering Tibet.you’ll descend gradually on the new road, crossing a small stream and ascending on the eastern road to Geling, a picturesque village always bustling with local life, the white-washed Mustangi houses surrounded by barley fields. Above Geling is the newly renovated brick-red Geling Gompa, its protector chapel above, and ancient meditation caves in the eroded cliffs, a fascinating and atmospheric monastery. Across the road to the west are the ruins of an old ‘dzong’ (or fortress, also called ‘khar’ in Tibetan) and ani-gompa (nunnery). In Geling, ou will stay for the night in Kunga Hotel, one of Mustang’s traditional-style lodges. (B, L, D)

Day 6 – Drive Ghemi & Tsarang 3570m | Cross Tsarang La 3870m | via Lo Gekar | Optional Dharmar Visit (Maya’s Heritage Inn) 
Leaving Gheling and driving north, you reach the small hamlet of Tamagaon (3700m) and continue along a lovely trail amongst rounded granite boulders to the small hamlets of Chhunggar (3750m), with large, colorfully striped chortens at each end of the village. Passing the small hamlet of Zaite (3480m), you are treated to more sublime views of the Himalayan peaks to the south: Thorung Peak, Annapurna I and Tilicho amongst them.

Driving up the switchbacks to the Nyi La pass (4010m), you are again treated to Himalayan panoramas including Annapurna I and beautiful Niligiri, as well as the clusters of white-washed villages below. More of Upper Mustang opens up in front, including the road from Lo Manthang snaking its way to the border of Tibet. Descend on the road from where there are wonderful views to Ghemi La and down to the checkered fields and large, beautiful village of Ghemi. Descend further to Ghemi (3750m), built along the steep edges of the cliff as are many fortified villages in Mustang. There are actually the ruins of an old fortress somewhere in Ghemi, which was largely abandoned until the Khampa fighters set up a magar (war camp) here and brought new life and wealth to the village. Your guide will lead you through this interesting village, passing the mani walls and prayer wheels, perhaps finding the key-keeper to open the Ghemi Gompa, worth a visit.

Leaving Ghemi, you will cross the Tangmar Chu on a new bridge, and ascend again. The road looks across the valley to ochre, blue and steel-grey cliffs, tri-colored chortens and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Mustang, behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead is a cluster of massive, ancient chortens, some of the most massive in the Tibetan world, backed by dramatic, sculpted cliff-faces and said to be 1500 years old (the same as Lo Gekar). An awesome sight!

Side Trip Dhakmar | Drive through a scenic, green valley, stopping occasionally for passing herds of sheep and goats, soon arriving at the lively, sprawling village of Dhakmar, dominated by a dramatic, red canyon wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Following the small stream through the lower part of the village, green with old willows and more recently planted poplars, look across the stream to old gompa. The red cliffs, which house Himalayan Griffins and Lammergeyers, are fantastic, and we’re camped in a scenic spot to enjoy the awe-inspiring views! Get out and explore Dhakmar, look out for villagers threshing and sorting flax seed, and wander under the the dramatic red cliffs for the rest fo the afternoon. One of the ancient cliff caves, striped with ochre and white, has a narrow access trail so it’s possible to get inside.

‘Dhakmar is a site where the landscape and man-made structures illustrate a well known Tibetan myth. Here Guru Rimpoche eviscerated a huge demoness, the Balmo, her blood and liver dyeing the steep eroded hills in red and purple-grey.’ –  Rob Powell, Earth Door, Sky Door.

There is only the Tsarang La pass to cross before reaching Tsarang, meaning ‘cock’s crest’, one of Mustang’s ancient capitals perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon. After checking into Maya Inn, your guide will lead you on a walk between high walls to the south of the village, green with poplar and willow trees, and stop to gaze at Tsarang Gompa and its ruins, impressively built on a crag of rock. Wander through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. Many of the wealthier homes here have family shrines which you might be lucky enough to be invited to see. The local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow, walled paths at dusk as the snow pigeons circle, shimmering, under the setting sun.

Tsarang is a large village of 83 houses (population 400) built on top of the Tsarang Khola canyon, one of the later capitals of the Kingdom of Lo in the 14th century. Stone walls separate the houses and form tunnel-like paths, a new irrigation ditch lines the main street, and willow groves turn the village green. Tsarang bustles with its many shops, its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses and visitors. It is dominated by the massive, crumbling five-story Tsarang Dzong, a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378 (after the palace at Lo Manthang), and the large, ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, built in 1385, of the Sakya sect and with the greatest library in Lo (the palace also has a great library). The dzong and palace were both built by Ame Pal and the other of the ‘Three Sangpos’. The palace has a wonderful, old prayer room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident lama will show you, and the withered 500-year-old hand of the master architect of the palace. Tsarang Gompa is adorned with fantastic 15th century frescos on the assembly hall walls; don’t miss the older prayer room in back, once an ‘ani gompa’, or nunnery. Elaborate sand mandalas are created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially deposited into the river at the festival’s end. Ekai Kawaguchi stayed nine months here in 1899, and Michel Peissel spent time with the Abbot of Tsarang, the king’s brother (the present king’s father) during his time in Mustang.

Enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Maya and Tsewang’s Maya’s Simkhang (the renovated Maya’s Inn), owned and run by Maya Bista and her brother Tsewang, relatives of the King, the royal palace and gompa visible in the near distance. Take the chance to have a cup of traditional salt-butter tea in the kitchen with Maya, and ask to see their family treasures in their shop-show room, also the old family Buddhist prayer room! (B, L, D)

Optional Day Tsarang | Visit Luri Gompa & Tashi Kabum
We highly recommend booking an extra day on the Upper Mustang jeep safari to visit the renown Luri Gompa, and perhaps the Tashi Kabum caves (if the trail up to the caves is good). Some of this route can be done in jeep though hiking is also required for about two hours, and you will have the opportunity to visit beautiful Ghara village as well.

The fabled Druk-pa Luri Gompa and its complex of Tibetan Buddhist caves, some of which are accessible others now ‘closed’ forever, are one of the highlights of Upper Mustang. One of the older Kings of Lo married a Bhutanese princess, thus the Druk-pa influence. The main Luri Gompa is situated down near the riverbed; the teacher, kids in tow, will lead on a crumbling trail us up to the upper prayer-room and the fifteenth century ‘Kabum Stupa’, made of highly polished stucco and painted with intricately detailed Newari-styled Buddhist frescos of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa, Naropa and Marpa. Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century, and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately, or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout history.

Hike or drive past fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible. You soon reach the little-visited Tashi Kumbum complex, accessible via a narrow ledge of a trail. Tashi Kumbum is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings dating from the 15th century, with fantastic Buddhist murals and a large exquisitely painted chorten. Gary McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the approach is very difficult and often dangerous. Our lodge owner (when camping in Yara) was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum, and then went there with Gary McCue.

Day 7 – Drive Lo Manthang | via Yara, Ghara, Tashi Kabum & Luri Gompa (Royal Mustang Resort)
Leaving atmospheric Tsarang, the jeep will drive north to Lo Gekar (3940m), ‘Pure Virtue of Joy’, set majestically in the valley above us. Lo Ghekar or Ghar Gompa, built in the 8th century, is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal. It belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet as well as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means ‘house gompa’ after the style of architecture, and harbors many exemplary frescoes as well as wonderfully carved and painted mani stones. Surrounding the gompa are massive, block-like chortens of a unique style and strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering in the winds of Mustang.

The story of Lo Gekar: Samye Gompa, the oldest gompa in Tibet, was repeatedly destroyed by demons when it was being built. The head lama dreamed that Guru Rimpoche could help with the construction and invited him to the site. The great Guru Rimpoche found demons to be the problem, and suggested that they first build Lo Gekar. Guru Rimpoche killed the demons at the spot that Lo Gekar was soon to be constructed. The long mani wall just south of Dhakmar is said to have arisen from the intestines of the demon, and the red cliffs above Dhakmar the blood of the demon. After Lo Gekar was completed, Samye in eastern Tibet was also successfully built.

After a look at the ‘lha-khangs’ or prayer rooms of the gompa, you return down valley, cross the bridge and end up across the river from Tsarang, from you will have a short drive past a massive, newly renovated chorten, cross the small Lo La pass, and finally reach to the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang! You will drive directly to the Royal Mustang Resort, a wonderful luxury and heritage property just outside the city walls. This hotel is owned and operated by Jigme Bista-La, the ruling King of Mustang, and his family, and is decorated in traditional Mustangi textiles, furniture and designs. Your stay in the Royal Mustang Resort is a chance to experience the best of Mustangi culture and cuisine in a luxury resort!

After lunch, start to explore the maze-like alleyways of this fascinating village. Be prepared for the onslaught of tourism as Lo Manthang is not as pristine as it used to be, but it’s just as mystical in the golden, yellow light as the local men bring their sheep and horses inside the city gates for the night. Horses roam freely amongst the the crumbling walls and fields that surround Lo. We recommend visiting Pema Bista or Tsewang Bista’s wonderful shops, treasure chests of antiques and textiles. You will have plenty of time to marvel at the surrounding panoramic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayan peaks bordering Tibet.

Spend the rest of the day wandering the labyrinthine alleyways of Lo Manthang, shopping for Tibetan and Mustangi artifacts and doing a ‘kora’ of the large, walled complex. There are several amchis that run Tibetan herbal medicine clinics in town, two schools, a growing number of coffee shops, plenty local shops selling goods from Tibet along with an increasing number of souvenir, thanka and antique shops. (They do take credit cards!) (B, L, D)

History of Lo Manthang
In the 1380’s, King Ame Pal established his reign in Lo, aptly named the ‘Plain of Aspiration’, with the walled city of Lo Manthang as the capital and its inhabitants called Lobas. Legend has it that the palace in Lo Manthang was constructed after Ame Pal send a godess to find an auspicious spot; she landed at the site of the present (crumbling) palace. The summer palace at Tingger was built later, and was used mostly be the earlier kings in the summer. Later kings spent their summers in Lo Manthang and their winters in Kathmandu.

Within the walls of Lo Manthang are about 180 houses built among narrow streets, and some of the largest and finest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. The city is quite prosperous due primarily to its past salt and wool trade along the Kali Gandaki with Tibet, and the Lobas themselves are still very Tibetan, living in Tibetan-style dwellings which we’ll have a chance to visit. There are even yeti (known here as mehti) prints rumored to be found.

Lo Manthang traditionally had a single entrance, through which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) were allowed to ride. All others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig, the Buddha of Compassion. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called ‘Lo Gyelbu’ by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside the city walls; that is, when he’s not in Kathmandu. He is an avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang. The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.

Optional Nomads Day Trip – Lo Manthang | West Nomad Camp 4280m
An option to visit the beautiful, green nomadic encampment by jeep, our ‘last nomads of Mustang’ from Lo Manthang. The scenic valley is dotted with nomadic tents of yak-hair, yaks, herds of sheep and goats, piles of yak dung and nomads. Several families live in this valley in their tents, and a few more in the valley over the next ridge. Their encampment is idyllic, set right next to a clear stream on a grassy, flat plateau looking down-valley over Himalayan peaks. Visit the lively doksa in the afternoon, perhaps being invited for a steaming cup of salt-butter tea and dried cheese. This is one of the last nomadic settlements in all of Nepal, a rare chance to see how real Tibetan nomads exist. It is quite high and gets cold in the late afternoons. Shopping for textiles is always an option, ask your guide to translate for you, and do have a look (in any case) at the hand-spun, hand-dyed and hand-woven textiles!

HOTEL NOTE | Upgrade to a Deluxe or Suite Room at Royal Mustang Resort +$65-$250 Deluxe-Suite (Per Room)

Day 8 – Lo Manthang | Visit Buddhist Monasteries (Royal Mustang Resort)
There are four major temples within the medieval walls of Lo Manthang, the 14th century, brick-red Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest gompa, built in 1387, with the striking 50 foot ‘Jampa’ (Future) Buddha, the largest clay statue in Nepal until a few years ago), 15th century Thubchen Gompa (Great Assembly hall, pillars 30 feet high, the second oldest gompa with fantastic murals in the Dukhang), Chhoede Gompa (where the Kempo lives, with a monastic school) and Choprang Gompa. There is also the Raja’s Palace, home to the present King Raja Jigme and Queen ‘Rani Sahib’ (who is from an aristocratic Lhasa family) and an interesting maze of a village to explore. There are approximately 1100 Lobas within the walls of the city although many lower caste Lobas live outside the walls. Many of the Lobas still practice polyandry.

To the north of Lo Mantang, in the direction of Tibet and at the bottom of the Namgyal valley, are the impressive ruins of Khochoe Dzong, meaning ‘white sheep dzong’, Ame Pal’s original palace dzong, built in 1440. The other ruins, slightly lower, was a monastery of a similar period. Both catch incredible morning and evening light, very photogenic sights, and at least the lower ruins are accessible from the Namgyal Tingger valley. (B, L, D)

HOTEL NOTE | Upgrade to a Deluxe or Suite Room at Royal Mustang Resort +$65-$250 Deluxe-Suite (Per Room)

Day 9 – Lo Manthang | Visit Namgyal Tinggar & Chhoser Valleys & Jhong Caves (Royal Mustang Resort)
You can visit the Chhoser valley on foot, by jeep or by horseback. (NOTE that Kamzang Journeys does not take responsibility for horseback riding. You will contract a horse directly from a horse owner. Kamzang Journeys has no legal responsibility and cannot be held responsible for injuries while on horseback. See disclaimer further down in itinerary)

Leaving Lo Manthang, descend past the brick-red Chamba Gompa at the corner of Lo Manthang to the lower cast community living along the willows of the riverbed, climbing out along the jeep road which you follow for about an hour. You will hike along the wide road, passing the ruins of the original Choede Gompa, passing through crumbling canyons, dry gullies, past ruined fortresses and the remains of ancient monasteries, relics of a more prosperous time past. Behind, leaving Lo, are the snow-peaks bordering Tibet, the ruins of the once-imposing Lo Dzong.

The Chosar valley was the main trading route with Tibet and Lhasa, and is peppered with the ruins of old fortresses guarding this strategic valley. Just north of this valley, over the border in Tibet, Lhakpa and I met a Tibetan man who still dealt in the trade of rare animal skins with Mustangi traders, a risky and of forbidden endeavor. It will be interesting to see if we can find out anything of this trade on the Nepal side of the border.

Crossing a bridge across intersecting stream on the main road, head right, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and take the trail heading towards our favorite troglodyte village, hiking through lovely, textured cultivated regions. Taking a bit of time to explore this interesting cave village, perhaps visiting a cave-house, you will hike for another 20 minutes or so before we see the Jhong Caves valley.

Passing Nyphu Gompa to the left, hike for about 15 minutes to the incredible cave-dwelling complex of Jhong, which you negotiate by ladders and through small tunnels (bring a headlamp), very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old. In front, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green meadows line the trail.

After the Jhong caves, return to visit the Sakya Ngorpa sect Nyphu Gompa (3760m) ahead, with its Lo Khenchen cave (Lo Khenchen was an early monk who came from Tsarang and meditated in this cave) and some older meditation caves which were destroyed in the earthquake. The cave monastery is home to Khenpo Samdup, an important lama. Nyphu Gompa has 30 resident monks and lamas and 40 thawas, and is built directly into the rock face. A Sakya Rimpcoche came in 2001 and built the new school. just below the gompa. The students spend 7 months in Mustang, and 5 months in Pokhara during the winter months. The ruins across the mostly dry riverbed are an old monastery which none of the villagers seem to know much about. ‘Nyphu had all the elements one could wish in a mysterious sacred retreat, possessing all the snugness of an underground hive and the grandeur of an eagle’s nest.’ –  Mustang; A Lost Tibetan Kingdom – Michel Peissel

Trek through small lanes, passing houses with red posts and often young Mustangi women weaving in the courtyards. Looking up to more eroded cave complexes, we soon round the corner and trek past a large chorten to reach the interesting Garphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang Khola. Garphu, built in the 9^th century, is the second cave gompa (the first is Nyphu), belongs to the Nyimgmapa sect and is associated with Guru Rimpoche. The furthest monastery in this valley is Nyamdo Gompa which we may have time to visit later in the afternoon, depending on where we’re camped. High up in this valley, between the Jhong Caves and Rinchin Ling, many ruins are perched high up on craggy cliffsides, in impossible locations. Locals say they are only houses, but we imagine that several of them were dzongs, gompas or lookouts. Return to Lo Manthang via the dirt jeep road. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)

HOTEL NOTE | Upgrade to a Deluxe or Suite Room at Royal Mustang Resort +$65-$250 Deluxe-Suite (Per Room)

Extra Day Lo Manthang | Day Hike Namgyal & Tingger Valleys. Visit Monasteries
Before booking this Mustang trek, you have the opportunity to spend extra days in Lo Manthang, worth every day in the magical capital!

An optional day hike through the Namgyal and Tingger valleys, a trek that will take a good part of the day but is worth the effort. Leaving Lo Monthang behind the main gate and passing threw the willow-lined, lower caste villages below, climb up to Namgyal Gompa (the Monastery of Victory), set spectacularly on top of a desolate ridge and the newest and most active gompa in Lo. The young novices studying here are from all reaches of the Tibetan Buddhist world. The village of Namgyal spreads out past the Gompa, worth a quick wander. Continuing north on the road and passing several ruins of ancient, crumbling monasteries we soon reach the old capital of Thinggar (4025m) where the king still has his small summer palace, now not in top condition. The small village gompa has been newly renovated, and it’s an interesting and colorful village to explore.

There are many ancient ruins surrounding the village, some gompas and others old fortresses. Once on the opposite side of the winding alleyways, continue to hike north for about half an hour to Kimaling (4030m), just across a long suspension bridge. We’ve had some lovely experiences with the local villagers at Kimaling, who don’t see very many trekkers. You’ll find them weaving, washing textiles and herding their sheep and goats. We might stop for salt-butter tea at a new friend’s small homestay (home) near the local lhakang (temple).

Kimaling Gompa is below the village, on the way out as you head towards Phuwa and its gompa on the way down towards Lo. There are tremendous views of Namgyal Gompa backed by snow-peaks behind us as we wander up the valley, and white peaks in front of us bordering Tibet. The return route heads straight down the valley to Phuwa village and eventually back to Lo Manthang.

Extra Day Lo Manthang | Sky Caves | Rinchin Ling & Drakphuk Koncho Ling
Include an extra day in your itinerary to visit the newly discovered Rinchin Ling cave complex, which requires a jeep, hiking up a steep hillside and entering the caves by a series of roped-together ladders carried up by local villagers for a fee. Better to keep the details of these caves a bit quiet. There is also an option to visit the Drakphuk Konchok Ling cave if the trail is in good condition. This little visited cave requires a seriously exposed hike along steep sided ridges, and a drop down using a rope, and is located north of the Chosar Cave complex. Both of these options probably require a jeep leaving Lo Manthang to get you nearer to the caves.

“The Ritseling Cave is located in Upper Mustang on a peak West of the Konchog Ling Cave. Prior to the last few years it appears as though no one has entered the small cave complex in several hundred years. It has an assortment of murals with a large mandala close to the entrance along with several Buddha figures. Towards the back of the cave there is a mural depicting narrative scenes possibly of one of the occupants of the cave and his travels through Tibet and especially to Lhasa. Various protector deities are found along with a stunning image – large in size – of the nine faced, eighteen armed Garuda. The only other image of this Garuda in a Buddhist context is found in Phyang Monastery, Ladakh, India.” Excerpt from Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

HORSE RIDING DISCLAIMER |  Horses are a good way to visit both of these valleys as Mustang is a region famous for its horses, but even on horseback it will be a long day. We take no responsibility for anything that may happen on a horse, and horses must be hired from the horse owners, not from Kamzang Journeys. We will help with the arrangements if you want to do a day of horseback riding in Mustang, but bear no responsibility.

Visiting the sky caves can also be dangerous as trails crumble away, and although the guide for Kamzang Journeys only take travelers to the caves that we deem safe, you are ultimately responsible for the decision to climb into these caves. It is not required.

Day 10 – Drive Tsarang | via Nomads. Visit Tsarang Palace & Gonpa (Maya’s Heritage Inn)
Alternative route …

Day 10 – Drive Ghemi 3500m or Samar 3605m  | Hotel Royal Mustang or Annapurna Guest House
Back in the jeeps, you will drive back to lovely Ghemi where you will stay at Raju and Tari Bista’s newly renovated Hotel Royal Mustang. Raju and Tari are part of the royal family, have built a charming traditional Mustangi hotel, and are a wealth of information on Mustang. Tari also has a wonderful show room with traditional Mustangi textiles and artifacts, do ask to visit!

You have the option to continue on a bit further to Samar, where you will stay for the night at the green Annapurna Guest House, a traditional lodge with a green garden area owned by good friend Namygal Gurung. His brother Karma was our horseman, guide and contact in Mustang, and Namgyal is the headman of the region. Relax and enjoy the afternoon and sunset over the Himalayan peaks, still dominated by Niligiri I, in this charming village. Showers are available inside the lodge, and feel free to go into the kitchen for a cup of salt-butter tea. Don’t miss the sunset and sunrise Himalayan views from just in front of the lodge! (B, L, D)

Day 11 – Drive Jomsom 2720m | Visit Muktinath Complex & Lubra | Om’s Home or Trekkers Inn
Your last day in the magical, ancient Kingdom of Mustang. You’ll continue the jeep drive back to Kagbeni, stopping at Muktinath if you would like to visit this interesting complex, before returning back to Jomsom for the night. You can also opt to visit Lubra (see information below on both sites). 

Once in Jomsom, you’ll be greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as the Mustangi people pass by with their pony caravans, and beautiful textiles are woven by handlooms in the traditional style, readily available for sale. Yak tails to adorn your horses or dust your house are also sold. You will spend your last night at Om’s Home, with the option to stay at Trekkers Inn, both near the airport for an easy departure tomorrow. You have the afternoon free to wander, wash and shop. and enjoy your last evening of Mustangi culture in the capital of Lower Mustang. (B, L, D)

Muktinath Complex Visit
For those wanting to visit the sacred pilgrimage site at Muktinath, it is do-able the same day by hired (or shared) jeep. Drive 30 minutes from Chhungar to the Muktinath complex, and then return via Ranipawa and Jharkot. Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. 

Lubra
“On the way back to Kagbeni, take a left turn, driving about 1 km up the intersecting riverbed, and visit little-visited Lubra, Mustang’s renown Bon-po village. “The people of Lubra, who believe the village was founded in the late 12^th century, have preserved their traditional way of life. A village of just fourteen families, Lubra is one of the few fully Bon villages in Nepal. According to local legend, the Bon Lama Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen came from Tibet via Dolpo and subdued the unruly local spirits, allowing the area to become suitable for human settlement. He planted a walnut tree as a divination to determine whether a village would flourish there. The ancient, gnarled walnut tree survives to this day.

Once tamed, the most powerful spirit among them hollowed out a sunny meditation cave on the hillside opposite the Panda Khola from modern-day Lubra as an offering to Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen, so he would have a suitable place for his practice. The name ‘Lubra’ refers to uniquely textured cliffs on that side of the Panda Khola, which look like snakeskin, spread out and frozen in time on the rock face. Serpentine naga spirits are known as ‘lu’ in the local Mustangi dialect of Tibetan, and ‘bra’ (also pronounced ‘dak’), means rock cliffs.

Traditionally, the people of Lubra built their houses with combined techniques of stacked foundation stones and rammed earth walls, topped with earthen roofs. As in other Baragaon and Thakali villages, they plaster the outer walls with red and white clay for decoration, and store firewood on the top edges of their flat roofs. Lubra belongs to one of the nineteen villages of the Baragaon region of Lower Mustang, which is commonly misunderstood to mean the “twelve villages” that lie above Jomsom and below Lo Manthang (now referred to as Upper Mustang). Baragaon is a Nepali mispronunciation of the Mustangi word Bar Gun, which means “the area in between,” referring to the region sandwiched between Lo Manthang above and the Thak Khola Valley below.

As all over the Himalayas, climate change has altered the water cycle, and overgrazing on the slopes above the Panda Khola has reduced the capacity of the mountainside to retain water, resulting in the loss of top soil due to erosion and more intense higher-level flooding. In the past five years or so, glacial runoff has been increasing rapidly, eating away at agricultural fields along the river bed. Nowadays, during flash floods, the river violently carves away at the banks below the village, causing field edges to be lost to the torrent. During the summer monsoon of 2017, dozens of square meters of farmland were washed away, along with a 70-year-old chorten, an important local religious monument.

Recently, the families of Lubra organized a community homestay project called Mustang Bon Homestay Village, to support the preservation of the unique culture and traditions of Mustang, which are slowly being lost due to the pressures of modernization and emigration abroad. By offering visitors homestay accommodations in the village, the community hopes to create an economic incentive for young entrepreneurs to both remain in the village and maintain local cultural and agricultural practices by involving visitors in unique local experiences. Examples of such experiences include participating in local dancing, mask dancing, cultural songs, and learning alongside traditional agricultural practices, which include planting and harvesting buckwheat, barley, maize, millet, potatoes, and other vegetables, kidney beans, fruit trees such as apricots, walnuts, and apples, and animal husbandry with goats, horses, cows, sheep, chickens, and dzo, the common cross between a male yak and cow, which is more suited to the altitude and climate.

In the center of Lubra village stands Yungdung Phuntsok Ling, an ancient Bon monastery with unique wall paintings and statues, where a five-day masked dancing festival occurs every September or October, depending on the lunar calendar. There are other Bon monasteries in Lower Mustang, such as in Kobang and Naurikot, but none are maintained in the ancient traditional way of hereditary priesthood such as in Lubra, where the eldest son of every family must strictly perform ritual duties and participate in prayers on auspicious days throughout the year. Due to this system, the local traditions have been well maintained in a way that is uncommon in the modern Himalayas.

When visiting Lubra, one should make time to sit in the small Bon temple on the mountainside above the village, called Gon Phuk, which means “winter cave.” It is the site of one of the natural meditation caves where the founder of Lubra village spend many years in meditation retreat, which was later developed into a temple. From the temple, one can climb to see ancient meditation caves on the rock cliffs above the village, which are seldom visited.. – Inside, Himalaya. “Lubra, the Hidden Bon Village of Lower Mustang” (https://www.insidehimalayas.com/lubra-hidden-bon-village-lower-mustang/)

HOTEL NOTE | Option to stay at the wonderful, new boutique hotel The Moksha Mustang in Jomsom for an extra charge.
+ $375 Single/$200 Per Person Double, Lunch $30 Dinner $35 (+ 24% taxes)

Day 12 – Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House (Deluxe Room)
We’ll be up early again for our mountain flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, flying between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South before landing in balmy Pokhara. Transfer to another plane for the short, scenic flight to Kathmandu, 198 east of Pokhara, flying high above the north-south rivers flowing down towards the Terai from the Himalaya and Tibet. We pass over terraced villages and green hills with the Ganesh, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna ranges in the distance.

In Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred by Doma Sherpa to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your deluxe rooms are booked, showers are hot and the garden awaits. Enjoy a last meal and a glass of wine (or two) in Thamel. (B)

TRAVEL NOTE | In the case of flight cancellation out of Jomsom everyone will be responsible for their meals at the Jomsom hotel.

Day 13 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA Airport
We send you off to the airport for your flight home, and hope to see you again soon! Tashi Delek + Namaste! (B)

---

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas with a hike down from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending a few nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sites to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

Trip Dates
Custom Departures
13 Days

Mustang Jeep Safari Price (Luxury Lodges)
$5680 (Luxury Trip)
16 Days

$5520 (Luxury Trip)
15 Days

+ Price for 2+ Travelers
+ Single Supplement – $

Mustang Jeep Safari Price (Traditional Lodges)
$4280
16 Days

$4120
15 Days

+ Price for 2+ Travelers
+ Single Supplement – $150

+ FREE Single Supplement (Single Tents & Kathmandu Guest House)!
+ Domestic Flights Included (4)
+ 18-Day Upper Mustang + ACAP Permits Included
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $65 (Per Room)
+ Om’s Home Upgrade – $45 (Per Room)
+ Trekkers Inn Jomsom – $10 (Single Room)
+ Price for 5+ Trekkers

Hotel & Lodge Upgrades (Camping Trek)
+ Lakeview Resort Single Upgrade A/C Cottage – $50 (Single Room)
+ Hotel Barahi Upgrade – $65 (Per Room)
+ Trekkers Inn Jomsom Single Upgrade – $10

Lodge Room Upgrades (Lodge Trek)
+ Temple Tree Upgrade – $90 Single & $45 Double (Per Person)
+ Maya’s Heritage Inn – $135 Single & $65 Double (Per Person, Deluxe Room)
+ Royal Mustang Resort Deluxe or Suite Room Upgrade – $165 & $250 Deluxe & Suite (Per Room)
+ Tiji Festival Rates Royal Mustang Resort – $65 Per Room
+ Om’s Home Upgrade – $45 (Per Room)
+ The Moksha Upgrade – $375 Single & $200 Double (Per Person), Lunch $30 Dinner $35 (+ 24% Taxes)

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Chitwan Extensions | Maruni Sanctuary Lodge, Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge or Barahi Jungle Lodge
$ Inquire

Includes

• Western + Sherpa Guide | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
• Upper Mustang Permit
• Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
• Kathmandu Guest House
• Hotels En Route to Trek
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• Domestic Flights + Departure Taxes
• NO Single Supplement on Trek
• Kamzang Journeys Trekking
  Marmot, North Face (or similar) expedition tents, gourmet food with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, library with regional books, ‘lounge’ with colorful Indian dhurrie rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets, occasional tent music in evenings, oxygen & PAC bag (when needed), full medical kit, horses, yaks or porters, Western, Sherpa & local guides (when needed), our 5-star Kamzang team + (of course) our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent (The Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness). NO single supplement for single tents on our treks!

Safety & Health Precautions

• Thuraya Satellite Phone
• InReach Satellite Messaging System (Free Texts on Trek)
• Updated Route Published on InReach Site
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (excluding cost of evacuation)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (Portable Oxygen Chamber)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
• Safe, sanitary, delicious & plentiful food + drinks

Excludes

• International Flights
• Travel Medical + Travel Insurance (both required)
• Nepal Visa
• Helicopter Evacuation
• Meals (while not on trek)
• Monastery Donations
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol, Sodas & Packaged Drinks
• Laundry
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights + Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Jeep Safari Highlights
T“Kamzang Journeys trips are, without a doubt, the best way to take a ‘regular’ destination and turn it into a great adventure that goes above and beyond. If a normal tour trip does something, Kamzang Kim will do it better. If the normal itinerary goes to the normal spots, Kamzang Journeys will take you to the less-known, rarely-visited, special and fantastic places. And on top of that? Kim and Lhakpa are a true pleasure to deal with, and make the process fun. The details are taken care of. The camps have a personal touch. Everywhere you go, they know the locals. Everywhere you camp, you feel at home. What more could a trekker ask for?”
– Alex P, (Canada) Sky Caves + Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2017

“Another amazing trek with Kamzang Journeys! I just finished one month trek in Upper Mustang, a month of great views and great fun. This is my fourth trek with Kim, and I strongly recommend this company to anyone who is dreaming to discover the Himalaya. Safety is a priority, the staff is very well trained and extremely caring, the variety and the quality of food is amazing, comfort level is very high. But the biggest plus are Kim and Lhakpa, that go out of their way to make this experience unforgettable!”
– Eli S (Italy), Sky Caves, Last Nomads of Mustang + Teri La Pass Trek 2018

“Another wonderful trek with Kamzang Journeys through the canyons, high passes, and remarkable culture of Upper Mustang. Kim Bannister and Lhakpa run excellent adventures! Himalayan know-how, experience, heart and humor, great food and a wonderful crew make Kamzang Journeys a special experience!”
– Sky Cave & Last Nomads of Upper Mustang Trek 2018

“Kim and her Kamzang Journeys team are fantastic! The food was excellent, love the cinnamon scrolls  Kim and all of her crew do a great job of looking after everyone. After a long days trekking it was great to see the Yellow Tent of Eternal Happiness ready and waiting with hot tea and snacks …”
– Colin B (Australia), Sky Cave + the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek Spring 2017

“I have done numerous treks in the Himalayan region over the last 25 years, and I would rate Kamzang Journeys at the top of my list for trekking companies. Excellent service, attention to detail, great food, good equipment, friendly and competent staff. We had far more snow than normal on our March-April trek, and alternate plans were made while sticking as much as possible to the original itinerary. The crew went above and beyond to help us get where we wanted to go. Pay attention to the trip description. They travel to out of the way places and take the more difficult route – on purpose!”
– Kate C (USA), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

“I would really recommend Kamzang Journeys to anyone who is looking for a great Himalayan experience! On reflection there was a lot more that I got out this trek than I initially realized. We faced many challenges due to unseasonal weather but Kim and Lhakpa always found a way to get us where we needed to be. Kamzang Journeys provides a unique experience that is backed by professionals who go out of their way to make the trek as exciting and enjoyable as possible. “
– Greg W (Australia), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2015

“Mustang is a must with Kim! In 2013 I was lucky enough to trek with Kim through the upper mustang region of Nepal. This was my second trip to Nepal but my first with Kamzang Journeys. Kim and her talented crew created a welcoming and safe environment to explore the upper mustang region including the highlight of visiting the last nomads in Nepal. Kim’s organisational skills and connections in the region insured any unforeseen circumstances were dealt with humour and a minimum of fuss. I will never forget this experience and look forward to many years of trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys. Kim, Thanks to you & Lhakpa for the fantastic adventure you gave us! You kept us safe and gave us memories that will stay with us forever. I had so much fun and so many laughs, a Kamzang adventure!”
– Sue W (Australia), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2013

“Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.”
– Shivan M (USA, India), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011

“Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!”
– Anne P (Canada), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2014″Thank you for making this trip one of the most memorable ones in my lifetime. You have been a friend when I needed one, a leader when the group needed one, an impeccable organizer and a great conversationalist. I marvel at your unlimited energy.”
– Shivan M (USA, India), Sky Caves & Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011

“Thanks again for the absolutely spectacular trip, and hopefully we won’t delay nearly as long next time in making our way back to Nepal!”
– Anne P (Canada), GHT | Nar Phu to Upper Mustang Trek 2014

“I did the Upper Mustang Trek in 2011 and the Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek in 2012 with Kim and her outstanding crew, and am going back again this coming April. Kim is truly professional, reliable, safe and very organized. Kim and Lhakpa’s knowledge of these remote countries make you feel so relaxed that you just enjoy the scenery everyday. They also know the people in the different villages we go through. At camp the food is excellent, clean and gear is top. It is an incredible experience!”
– Nan S (France), Sky Caves & the Last Nomads of Mustang Trek 2011, Sacred Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek 2012

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Clear Sky, Red Earth: A Himalayan Story – Sienna Craig + Tenzin Norbu

Articles + Documentaries on Mustang

Upper Mustang – Kamzang Journeys Trek | Colin + Pauline’s Blog

Myths & Mountains in Nepal | New York Times

Cave People of the Himalayas | National Geographic

Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic

Lost Treaures of Tibet | PBS Documentary

The Ancient Mysteries of Mustang’s Caves | BBC

Sky Caves of Nepal | National Geographic

Cave People of the Himalaya | PBS

New Death Ritual Found in Himalaya | National Geographic

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge | Al Jazeera

Mustang, a Kingdom on the Edge (YouTube) | Al Jazeera

Foreign Correspondent: The Road | ABC

Mustang: Lives & Landscape of the Lost Tibetan Kingdom | Photo Essay – Global Oneness Project

Before They Pass Away (Photos) | Jimmy Nelson

Himalayan Art | Mustang Cave Art

Nepal Diary: A Gift of Sight Expedition

Buddhists, Reconstructing Sacred Tibetan Murals, Wield Their Brushes in Nepal | New York Times

Earth Door Sky Door – Paintings of Mustang by Robert Powell | Asian Art

How Tibetans Survive on the Roof of the World |

Modernizing Mustang

A Fortress in the Sky: The Last Forbidden Kingdom of Tibetan Culture (Photo Essay) | Washington Post

Himalayan Healers | Nepali Times

Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo (parts from Kamzang Journeys)

Last King of Mustang Dies at 86 – My Republica

Last King of Remote Buddhist Kingdom Dies in Nepal – Indian Express

Documentary Movies on Mustang
Secrets of Shangri La: Quest for Sacred Caves | National Geographic | Leisl Clark (Director)YouTube Download
YouTube Preview

Mustang: Hidden World Beyond the Himalaya | Ghang-Tuk Tsokpa Film (Available in Kathmandu)