The Wild Route | Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse Camping Trek Yulchung, Bear Valley, Zangla & Shade Valleys & Surichen La Pass Indian Himalaya Trek

The Wild Route | Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse Camping Trek (Yulchung to Bear Valley, Zangla & Shade Valleys & Surichen La Pass) – Indian Himalaya Trekking

Day 1 – Meet in Leh 3500m   
Welcome to Leh, the capital of predominantly Buddhist Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir, tucked away amidst mountainous Ladakh, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If arriving by air, you will feel the jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If arriving by road from Manali or Srinagar, you will have had some extra acclimatization en route but still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate, stay away from alcohol for a few days, rest, and don’t over-exert yourself! Even walking up to the Leh Bazaar or the steep steps leading to Leh Fort will leave you breathless for the first few days. We recommend starting Diamox the day before you fly up to Leh. The prophylactic dose is 125mg 2x per day if you don’t have any AMS symptoms, or 250mg 2x per day if you have some symptoms such as a headache, feeling dizzy, disoriented and/or irritable, edema (swelling of the extremities, in this case) having no appetite or not sleeping at night.

We stay at the family run Shaynam Hotel, a lovely guest house with a beautiful garden courtyard, located just below the Main Bazaar in Leh, with options to stay at the nearby Padma Guest House, or Omasila in Changspa north of Leh (close to Shanti Stupa). Kim will take you on a short tour of old Leh and the Main Bazaar once you’ve settled into your room and had some coffee, tea, breakfast and water. Central Asian Leh is incredibly atmospheric, packed with trendy cafes and restaurants, Muslim tandoori bread ovens, timeless, winding alleyways, Central Asian antique and pashmina shops, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, picturesque Muslim mosques, Hindu and Sikh temples, fruit and vegetable markets, a polo field, ancient mani walls and chortens, and the interesting dried fruit and nut market run by locals and flower-laden Dha Hanu villagers along and around the Main Bazaar. Don’t miss the Central Asian Museum or the walking tour of the historic buildings of Old Leh!

We will meet for dinner in the evening for dinner, see Kim’s great eats suggestions that she’ll pass on. (B)

Days 2 & 3 – Leh | Walking, Cycling, Rafting & Sightseeing Tour Options     
We have two more full days in Leh to acclimatize, and do some hiking, cycling, exploring, rafting, touring and/or sightseeing and enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal’s 17^th century capital of Ladakh. Leh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route between Central Asia, Tibet, China, Kashmir and India. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 15th century Leh Fort (the highest point at 3680m) and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni and Shi’ite Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Today, the Main Bazaar is a colorful street, the sidewalks crammed mornings and afternoons with Ladakhi women selling their fresh fruits and vegetables, and locals at the far end vending their dried nuts, apricots, apples and a colorful variety of vegetables.

Caravans of merchants from far flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.

Kim will take you for a walk up bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to the crumbling but majestic Leh Fort and the red, Maitreiya Tsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at the 9-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas/gonpas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) – Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. Sankar Gompa (17th – 18th c), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi’s groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.

Wander along the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. (B)

Touring Options Leh | Indus Valley Sightseeing Trips  
Endless options for wonderful ‘jeep safaris’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange a jeep and driver for a day or overnight trip to some of Leh and the historic Indus valley’s most scenic and culturally interesting spots.

Indus Valley Monastery & Fortress Tours  
Arrange (through Kim, our Tibetan jeep-driver Wang Chuk or the Shaynam Hotel) a ‘jeep safari’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange jeeps and/or a guide for a day’s excursion.

Adventure Cycle Option Leh | Drive Up & Cycle Down Kardung La 5340m (39 km)   
One of the Himalaya’s great downhill rides, put your bicycle on a jeep up to the Kardung La along the Ladakh Range, the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra Valleys, and part way to the infamous Siachen Glacier. This epic road was built in 1976, and openned to public vehicles in 1988. Cycle down this switchbacking road, stopping on the way down to slowly cycle through some of Leh’s leafy northern suburbs. From Wikipedia “Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen at Hunder, in the area north of the pass. During World War II there was an attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.” Note that although all signs proclaim the Kardung La to be 5602 meters (or somewhere in this vicinity), it’s actually nearly 300 meters lower, so actually not at all the highest motorable pass in the world! Times of India Article | Kardung La

Leh Historic Cycle Tour | Shanti Stupa, Gonpa Village, Gonpa Monastery & Leh Fort (20-25 km)
Our favorite short Leh cycle tour starts at Shaynam Hotel, cycling along willow-lined lanes up to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for views over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. We continue with a bit of off-road cycling to traditional Gompa village and its monastery at the top of the village, dropping and ascending to cycle along the spectacular, high road to Leh Fort, precariously perched, and the monastery complex above Leh Palace. Last a long descent back to Leh via the old city and the Muslim sections of Leh, an incredibly scenic bike trip. 

Indus Valley Eastern Monasteries Cycle (or Jeep) Tour | Spikuk, Stakna, Thiksey & Shey (45-65km)
A beautiful Ladakhi cycling day heading out on a bike tour of the eastern Indus Valley monasteries, beginning with 7½ km out of Leh straight down to Spituk Gompa. We will stop for a visit of this 1000 year old Gelugpa (once Nyingmapa) Tibetan Buddhist monastery, named the ‘exemplary monastery’ by the Great Translator Lotsewa Rinchen Zangpo and presently housing about 1000 monks. Back on the bikes, we cycling past a row of mani stones and chortens along a small willow and popular lined road through the small hamlet of Spituk and cross a small bridge spanning the Indus River. Taking a lovely, rural road with few vehicles, we cycle along the south of the Indus for about 10 km, reaching the equally small intersecting road coming from Tibetan Choglamsar.

We continue to cycle along this small country road, biking past traditional Buddhist villages, Islamic mosques, whitewashed chortens and fields of barley and peas. About 15 km into the ride the impressive sight of Stakna Gompa looms to our left, and we cycle towards the Indus, climbing for a kilometer to reach this impressively set monastery, founded in the 16th century by a Bhutanese lama, and every year Stakna Hosta a monastic festival that still draws a large contingent of monks from Bhutan!

Cruising back down the hill, we cross the Indus again and cycle another 6 km to Thikey Gompa, a bustling monastic institute and a 12-story Gelugpa complex with a renown Maitreya Buddha in the main assembly hall, an ancient library and incredible murals, artifacts and statues. The monastery was built in the 15th century following instructions of Je Tsongkhapa, and has one of the largest monastic schools in Ladakh.

From Thiksey (or Shey) we have options to cycle the last 15 kilometers uphill back to the Shaynam Hotel, or to throw the bikes onto the jeep and drive back with Ang Chuk. From Thiksey to Shey, we cycle west on a flat road along the main highway, paved but with few cars, for 5 km to reach ancient Shey Gompa, one of Ladakh’s old capitals, now in ruins except for the monastery. Cycling further west on the same road, we soon reach the back intersection to Leh, avoiding busy Choglamsar, and climb for about 10 km to the very busy main road. The last 3 or so km are on the main road, crossing through an equally busy intersection at the petrol pump, with the last steep 1 km on our small Old Leh Rd to Shaynam. A big cycling day for our third day at altitude in the Indian Himalaya!

LEH SIGHTSEEING & CYCLING NOTE | Because of the altitude of Leh, you may opt to ONLY do some jeep sightseeing through the Indus Valley, or to wander through Leh’s endlessly fascinating old town or relax and make sure your bike is tuned up. We will discuss options in Leh!

Spitok Gonpa & Stok Palace Cycle (or Jeep) Tour (35+km)
Another great option for cycling tours out of Leh begins with the 7 km downhill to Spitok Gompa, followed by a bucolic cycle across the other side of the Indus, and finally a steep 7 km cycle up to Stok Palace and leafy Stok village. The Ladakah royal family still resides part of the year in this palace, which houses a wonderful prayer room and a very interesting museum, worth a visit (and perhaps an overnight stay). The road continues 2 or 3 km past the palace, ending where the trek to Stok La begins at the top of the valley. Cruise back down the 9-10 km paved road, cross the Indus at Choglamsar, and cycle up the back road to reach Shaynam Hotel.

EAST | Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde (Chemre), Thagthok (Sakti), Stakna + Matho Gompas. Stok Palace has wonderful heritage rooms and chalets for overnight stays, and Sakti has charming homestays. 

WEST | Spitok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong + Lamayuru Gompas. Alchi is a wonderful village to spend the night, and ditto for Lamayuru, which also has several hotels near this picturesque monastery.

Indus or Zanskar White Water Rafting  
Exciting white-water rafting trips on the Indus (less challenging) or Zanskar Rivers, $40 – $45.

Day 4 – Drive Photoksar & Yulchung 3910m or Nyeraks 3860m | Cross Sirsir La 4825m, Bumiktse La 4400m & Singge La 4970m
After breakfast we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of our Ladakh trek at Yulchung, a long drive through the historic Indus Valley and into Ladakh. Leaving Leh we drive past the ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village and Phyang Gompa and village to the right. We continue along a cliff-side road past the intersection of the Indus River with the Zanskar River, the Zanskar villagers’ lifeline during the harsh winters. Look out the back windows for a spectacular panorama of the Ladakh range, which extends westward to meet the Karakorum range in the distance. About an hour later, we’ll spot Basgo Gompa and Fort, a 500 year old World Heritage site, situated spectacularly on a spur above the Indus. Further down the Indus on the right is the link road to Likir Gompa, and to the left the turnoff to the 1000 year old Alchi Gompa, built in the Northern Indian style with wonderful frescos and murals inside the many prayer rooms. Just past Alchi is the link road to Rizdong on the right; soon afterwards we cross the Indus at Khaltse, and continue to the turn off to Panjilla a half hour down the road.

Panjilla is a lovely village lined with apricot trees and lively with villagers. We drive further to the Sumdo and then on the spectacular gorge road to Hanupatta. Pink Zanskar roses line the road, leaving behind a scent of cinnamon, and incredible spires of rock tower above at every corner. We continue on the new road giving access to Photoksar, passing through the long village of Hanupatta with ancient carved mani walls and chortens. The valley widens as we slowly ascend, and the rock-spires become ever more impressive, their hues of ochre and tans glowing gently in the morning rays. We cross the large-ish Spong Togpa river on a new Bailey’s bridge, and soon afterwards crest the Sirsir La, our first of many Ladakhi passes (Ladakh means ‘Land of high passes’).

Expansive views of the craggy ranges surrounding us at the prayer-flag festooned summit of the Sirsir La. We descend the steep ridge to our left, passing yellow poppy-like flowers, ‘bee balm’ (bees love this flower) or monarda from which earl grey tea is made and marmots popping their heads out of their burrows. We continue to ascend easily, soon crossing a small stream and climbing a bit to reach an amazing complex of a white-washed kane (entrance) chorten, a mani wall and a lama’s seat. Just around the corner is the incredibly scenic village of Photoksar (4200m), perched precariously on a hillside above the river. If the wild flowers are in bloom and the billowing fields of barley ripening, this is one of the most beautiful villages in Ladakh, certainly one of the most photographed. Especially if the villagers are herding their flocks of sheep and goats back to Photoksar after a day of grazing, the sun-rays filter through the village haze ….

After a break in Photoksar, we’re back in the jeep heading towards our second pass, the small Bumiktse La, passing a summer ‘doksa’ or grazing area. The deep gorge leading directly to Panjilla rises dramatically to our left, and we’ll be greeted with great views of Photoksar and its fertile valley from the pass. Ahead is the Utah-like bulk of the Singge (lion) Peak and the Singge La (pass). This valley is the high pasture of the Photoksar villagers, and we pass their herds of sheep, goats and yaks en route to Yulchung. Next up is the prayer-flag festooned Singge La, the ‘lion pass’ where we’ll have views across Ladakh and Zanskar. Our road snakes its way up to the top of the pass from the left of the valley while the old trail still goes up the middle through the wildflowers, by the small parachute tent.

We’ll hang five-colored Tibetan prayer flags at the Singge La, we drop steeply into the dramatic canyon with the old trail below us, the valley resplendent with Zanskar rose bushes, pastures of wildflowers, lichen-covered rocks and grasses. There are often blue sheep and ibex in this region, as well as red fox, wolves and snow leopards. The massive, ochre-colored canyon walls to our left as we descend have been smoothed and textured by millenniums of wind and water erosion which have left strange caves throughout. Yulchung, which means ‘small kingdom’, is a remote, traditional village with a five-hundred year old gompa on the upper reaches of the village and another smaller ‘lhakhang’ perched on a precarious rock-ledge in front of the crescent-shaped village. The straight rod-like rock on top of the craggy cliffs across the river from camp is called ‘ranjung kazar pani’.

Tomorrow’s pass is visible in the distance, as is the pass leading to ‘bear valley’, high up in the peaks in front of us, past the powerful Zanskar River. We’ll have many local visitors during the course of the afternoon and evening. Kim’s wonderful Zanskari grandmother Sonam Yanskit, sadly passed away in 2022 (in her mid-80s). Sonam Yanskit’s husband Nyawang Jigmet, who looked like a real Tibetan with his turquoise earrings and ‘goncha’ (a dress similar to a chuba), passed away a couple of years before Sonam Yanskit, and her health deteriorated after his death.

We will hope to have a chance to visit a traditional Ladakhi house and the gompa in the afternoon. Behind a set of three ancient chortens lives Sonam Yanskit’s husband’s nephew and his preschool teacher wife, in what used to be the King of Yulchung’s house. They are descendants of this family although there is little that’s still ‘royal’ about their house or lifestyle.

The staff has set up our first Kamzang Journeys campsite just below the extended road, on the far side (south) of the village, right next to some wonderful old Ladakhi dwellings. The dramatic views from this village are awe-inspiring, and the villagers are welcoming. We’ll set you up in your tents, show you around our Kamzang-style dining tent and settle in with a steaming mug of chai.

TRAIL & ROAD NOTE | Depending on the condition of the road and trails after Yulchung, we may opt to drive all the way to Nyeraks, saving this day as an extra one during the trek. At the moment, the road is dirt and paved, and the trail has yet to be rebuilt in a better location. (8 hrs driving)

Day 5 – Trek Nyeraks 3860m | Cross Chocho Khuru La 3865m
The start of our wonderful Himalayan trek, and a scenic Ladakh trekking day as we hike down to the Zanskar River and back up to Nyeraks. Leaving camp, we trek below the ruins of the ancient ‘lhakhang’ and hermitage as we head towards the ridge that drops steeply out of Yulchung to the Zanskar River canyons far below. Keep an eye out for the red fox that lives in the vicinity, and for blue sheep grazing along the hillsides. After contouring around several hillsides, we have a small climb to the Chocho Khuri La, where we’ll enjoy the spectacular views in both directions. Sadly there is a new road built up this pass, and back down, although we can avoid some of it. We drop down a steep switchback, dusty, with a small spring and local berries, into the gorge of the Zanskar River, which we cross by a new wooden, cantilevered bridge, rebuilt after the floods of 2015 (and again a newer bridge for cars). We trek up the hot hillside on a winding trail past a unique version of a ‘lhatoo’ (a shrine to the mountain deities the locals believe live on local peaks), a sculpture made from blue sheep horns, to the village of Nyeraks, perched on a plateau high above the Zanskar.

We begin to understand the harshness of life in such a setting, between pass and river gorge, a seemingly impossible place, with its own beautiful monastery, and even an old, sacred tree. The small Nyeraks Gompa is wonderful, a real relic of times past which is white-washed yearly, a colorful event. The gompa was being renovated and repainted in 2015 by monks and painters from Lingshed, with which it is associated. We once saw the procession of the Ngari Rimpoche, who is the younger brother of the Dalai Lama, leaving Nyeraks after a visit to the monastery, an elaborate procession with parasols, musicians, horses and locals following. Our campsite is another spectacular one on this remote Ladakh trek, with incredible sunset views over the village, passes and craggy peaks. The quality of light in this part of the Himalaya is breathtaking; be sure to have an evening stroll through the village and take it all in. The alfalfa fields are fodder for the animals for the rest of the year, and we often see striped, tufted hoopoes flitting from willow to willow. The other trees are possibly Nepal alders, though we are still in the process of identifying them. We also find these same trees in Mustang!

Sonam Yanskit’s daughter, Thinle Angmo, lives in Nyeraks with her husband and four young children, the youngest 5 (2020). Angmo is an ‘amchi’, or Tibetan doctor, having completed several years of study at Lingshed Gompa years ago, and she now treats local villagers for trade or a small donation. Her husband is often away, working at a medical center in Kaltze, a world away from Nyeraks, and her adorable 1 year old (in 2022) daughter Tashi took her first steps last year when we visited! A large house at the top of the village, once the house of a village chief, has an exquisite house gonpa that we may be able to visit; their cute, young sons love to play in the courtyard. Most of the houses are of traditional Ladakhi design, with an open courtyard in the center of the first floor of the house, where most work is done, and time spent in the sun. (4½ hrs, 9½ km)

Day 6 – Trek Nyeraks High Camp 4675m
We head off on the first half of our steep, 1300 meter ascent from Nyeraks to the Takti La pass, which separates Ladakh from Zanskar on our Himalayan trek (although we only climb 800 meters today). We start climbing right out of the village, passing the white-washed chortens and through the wire gate, often steeply. We pass several cairns as we hike up a chain of several very steep hills, stopping at the top of each to rest, and look behind us towards the Singge. Nyeraks is now a patchwork of greens, browns and tans, far below us in the valley, and the hillside is peppered with ancient, crumbling chortens. The steep sided valley is made of black, oxidized iron ore which sparkles in the sunlight, small mountain flowers brighten the harsh landscape and marmots poke their heads out of their holes. Walking along an old irrigation wall, we soon reach a small pond fed by a mountain spring were we set up a spectacular high camp, cold but worth it for the evening and morning views! (4 ½ hrs, 4 ½ km)

Day 7 – Trek Bear Camp 3980m (Bear Valley) | Cross Takti La 4955m + OhShit La 4580m
Fresh pressed coffee and chai are welcome on this chilly morning as we head into Bear Valley, a name we coined which is now in general use on many Ladakh treks. Keep an eye out for blue sheep and ibex at the flat summit, and notice the glacier flower blooming though out the walk on our short, 1 ½ hour trek to the pass. We ascend to cairn topped ridges, making our way carefully through the scree slope which contour around the peak and lead to the prayer flags at the grassy Takti La. Looking back across to the Singge La and the serrated ridges that we have crossed over the past few days is an awesome sight.

Descending on a very steep switchback to a glacial stream (we might be able to refill water), we have another short and more gradual climb to the OhShit La (named after the view upon reaching this pass from the other direction and seeing the Takti La looming ominously ahead of us). We have now entered our ‘bear valley’, and a steep, switchbacking trail down brings us down to the colorful end of the valley, where we hike into a green valley of willows and flowers, still following the small stream. Making our way on the small, overgrown trail, crossing the stream a few times, we reach the clearing that we call Bear Camp (although we haven’t actually spent the night there with one) in another hour.

We’ve entered one of the ‘lost valleys’ of Zanskar, one of the many that we will explore on our Ladakh and Zanskar trek! The crew will light a fire tonight and make some homemade roti, a great camping evening. Zanskar translates as ‘land of white copper’, a once remote collection of Himalayan kingdoms cut off from the rest of the world by the Himalayan Range to the south, and the Zanskar Range to the north.

BEAR NOTES | Our only actual bear spotting was in 2003, when our group did this trek for the first time (with Joel). We spotted a large brown bear cub just in front of us, and then across the valley what we presumed to be its parents, not looking happy that a large group of trekkers were between them and their cub! The next season we only spotted frozen bear scat and no prints, and in 2005 we again spotted fresh bear scat. Since then we often see bear scat, often last season’s, and sometimes bear prints. Rumors were spread that the villagers of Zangla shot some of the bears after the bears raided their sheep paddocks years ago. The staff also saw a bear in about 2015 just near our campsite! (5½ hrs, 7 km)

Day 8 – Trek Karmafu (Pharkunsa) (Bear Valley) 3780m
Today’s half day Himalayan trek is an exciting and beautiful one, first along the willow-lined stream, jumping back and forth (possibly wear sandals), and then over (or under) an ice bridge and through a narrow canyon with ankle deep water (sandals). Next on the list of adventures is a short climb to the small Pangat La (3900 meters), followed by a high, exposed trail over the river followed by an easy river fording and another canyon trek on crumbling trails on the right side of the river. The staff have often had to rebuild this trail, and sometimes have to unload the horses. Just past this tricky section, we crest a small rise and have a lovely view down valley towards our plateau campsite, a spectacular one. We’ll stop for lunch under the only shady tree in the valley, just after leaving the canyon, and perhaps jump in the river to cool down. Just afterwards, past more local ‘bear berries’ and seabuckthorne bushes, we pass junction of a small stream where (in 2005 Kim) set off alone to help get camp set up, heard a loud splashing very close to her which she assumed to be a bear, and came running back to the lunch spot. Joel and the boys, ever brave, came running out with the bear spray to do battle. Be on the lookout for the prints and scat of snow leopard, fox and wolf as well as bear.

We might do a bit of river walking, or we can opt to stay on the trail, which undulates on the scree slope, avoiding the thorns of the seabuckthorne bushes. These berries produce a delicious drink, very high in vitamin C, which you can find in Leh, sweetened with sugar. A few years ago Lhakpa and I saw fresh bear tracks while river walking, and over 10 years ago Joel, the group and I encountered a large Himalayan Brown Bear, turning our heads to see the even larger mother and father bears across the small stream. There are many brightly striped hoopoes in this valley, very hard to photograph and very shy. In 2022, we followed a series of local pea and grass-filled bear scat all the way down tomorrow’s pass (the Namtse La) and to the bottom of the valley, right near the village of Zangla! I heard from WC Namgyal, a researcher in Zangla who lives next door to the King’s house, that bears have a 700x greater sense of smell than humans …

We arrive in our plateau campsite in the early afternoon, in time to enjoy the views of the hoodoos across the stream, go for a dip below camp, and possibly spot some blue sheep and ibex that roam the hillsides. The hoodoos that line the riverbank opposite camp are amazing sculptures of eroded rock and mud, that hosted a show of acrobatic blue sheep several years ago. Our mules and horses got stuck in the mud flats below camp many summers ago, after extreme flooding in Ladakh that left the rivers clogged with quick sand-like mud, and a few years ago we left camp following the fresh tracks of bear prints up the valley towards Zanskar. We might build a campfire in the evening, a practice first started to keep the bears away years ago. (4½ – 5 hrs, 8 km)

Day 9 – Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp 3430m | Cross Namtse La 4495m
A small saddle above our campsite topped with a barrier of sticks leads us back down into a dramatic, narrow valley on the start of our exciting Himalayan trekking day. Our small trail follows a small, willowy stream that intersects our Bear Valley river, and which we follow as we ascend for an hour or so, often jumping from side to side (no sandals required). After hiking through tight willows, the valley broadens and the views open in front of us as we ascend under hoodoos backed by brilliant blue sky. Chukars chortle and rush up the arid hillsides and grazing yaks glance up as we invade their pristine territory. Continuing to hike a bit more steeply uphill for another few hours, it’s an easy crossing of the Namtse La, a desert-like pass which means ‘top of the sky’. If the weather cooperates this is our lunch spot, a scenic one!

We drop steeply for a total of 1000 meters, entering into a beautiful valley of Zanskar roses, shimmering shale, a tiny stream and wolf traps. After some three hours walking, brings us out onto the wide plain, the once-Kingdom of Zangla. One really gets a sense of why this remained a hidden kingdom for so many centuries. At the top right of the village is the hilltop fortress (dzong) of Zangla, and past that several watch towers along the Jumlam route. Past Zangla lies the Himalayan barrier and the Umasi La route leading to Kashmir; the wooden beams that are the center of most Zanskari houses came from this route, laboriously carried by porters centuries ago. Below, the Zanskar curves away into the Muslim Suru valley and the Pensi La, closed for all but three months of every year and in front, behind the villages of Pidmo and Pishu, the Zanskar range cuts off approach for all but those like us, a well-equipped caravan.

After emerging from the gorge we have a one-hour walk through Honya Doksa and along the Zanskar plateau following the paved road, or hiking along the riverside, a slightly longer but nicer route where hoopoes abound, to our lovely riverside camp that we call Zangla Doksa River camp. Doksa means seasonal nomadic settlement in Ladakhi, and the locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large flocks of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar. The grass is green and there is a clear spring (spout) right at camp, so have a refreshing wash and settle in for the evening. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp, the perfect end to a classic Zanskar trekking day! (7½ hrs, 15 km)

Day 10 – Zangla Doksa River Camp
A rest and exploration day in Zanskar; options are to hang around at camp and relax in this sublime setting, to visit the Central Zanskar monasteries or to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla, though we do pass through Zangla and can visit the fort tomorrow, en route to the Jumlam route.

Kim and Lhakpa will head to Padum to resupply for the second half of our Ladakh and Zanskar trek. Some people might want to hire a local jeep and explore the historic monasteries of Central Zanskar, an interesting and scenic tour!

Zangla Village & Fort Tour
Climbing gradually out of our campsite, hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Ani Gonpa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village. Follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where our Kamzang Journeys group had tea one summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The King of Zangla, Gyalthes Nima Norboo Namgial Ldey of the Sonsten Gampo lineage, recently passed away, but was the same age as the Dalai Lama (early 80s) who he knew well. We met the King of Zangla once in the village, and another time rode into and back from Padum with him in 2015. The King’s house now has a new horse stable in front, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter.

Songsten Gampo was the great 7^h century Tibetan king who unified much of Tibet, encouraged the spread of Tibetan Buddhism and was the patron of the creation of the Tibetan script. He had two wives, one Chinese and the other Nepali. The king’s family is also of the Nyimagon lineage, a Tibetan king from the 11^h century whose youngest of three sons, Ldey Tsugon, ruled Zanskar, Lahoul and Spiti. The other two sons ruled areas of western Tibet (Guge, Purang) near Mount Kailash.

The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 900 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19^h century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.

Zanskar Valley Monasteries Tour | Sani 3670m, Karsha 4030m & Pipiting 3670m Gompas
We can help to hire a local jeep from Zangla to visit the fascinating, historic monasteries of Central Zanskar …

Leaving Zangla, you’ll pass a local Zanskar lhatoo to the left of the road just past town, a shrine to the mountain deity that lives on the peak just near the fortress. Driving south for 19 km along a relatively flat road, you’ll pass the hamlets of Tsazar, with Rinam across the Zanskar River, to reach Stonge village, with the monastery high above. Just before reaching the main village, the jeep turns to the left and drives steeply up the traverse to Stongde Gonpa.

Stongde Monastery 3815m
Stongde Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, was built in 1052 by Naropa’s disciple, the famous translator Lama Marpa, and taken over by the Gelugpa in the 15th century, with Je Tsongkhapa as its present head. Stongde is the second largest monastery in Zanskar, with approximately 60 monks and many students, renown for its Gustor Festival during the summer.

After the climb to the monastery, climb to the monastery roof for wonderful views of the patchwork of Stongde village and the Zanskar valley. It’s one of the most lively and colorful monasteries, perched precariously up on a craggy rock ledge, and surrounded by lovely birch woods. We has many friends there, including Geshe Lobsang who lectures and travels around the world, and founded the monastic school. Geshe Stenzin and his brother, are also good friends; they might invite us for tea and give us a tour of the gompa, including its room of treasures in back of the oldest ‘lhakhang’, or prayer hall. We might be able to catch the evening puja in the butter-lamp lit prayer room, a surreal experience with resonating, deep chanting, cymbals, Tibetan drums, a step back hundreds of years.

Sani Gonpa 3670m
We recommend visiting the 1000-year-old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley, a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renown for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127 CE. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.

From Wikipedia: “Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue. Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell. The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi. A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at ‘Starkhugnza’ in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.”

Karsha 4030m & Pipiting 3670m Gompas
From Sani, take the back roads to the Gelugpa Karsha Gompa, the largest, most important, and possibly the most scenic monastery in Zanskar, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche (the brother of HH the Dalai Lama). “Behind his seat in the chapel is a statue of Lhaso Cho Rinpoche, brought from Lhasa in the 1960s, with a golden crown decorated with carnelian and turquoise. The most important festival, known as the Karsha Gustor, is held with masked cham dances on the 26th to the 29th day of the 11th Tibetan month, which is usually in January.” – Wikipedia

The oldest temple is the Avalokiteshvara Lhakang, containing wall paintings from 1000 years ago during the period of Rinchen Zangpo. A fire burned down the kitchen about a decade ago, and a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings. Karsha and Karsha village are home to many ancient rock-carving sites. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche. A fire recently burned down the kitchen, but a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings.

Padum 3585m
After the tour, you will return via Padum, (3585m), a Central Asian town and a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, the Gyalba Rigsinga, worth a look. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! 

“Mons of the Khesa race were dominant in the past in the region of western Himalayas. The Mons have been Buddhist in the region from the time of the Kushan dynasty, established by Emperor Kanishka. Mons, the dominant population in the Zanskar valley, and are said to belong to an Aryan race linked to Kaniskha’s period as their features do not match those of the local tribes or the Mongolians. Mons are credited with building 30 monasteries, chortens and temples, including Karsha Monastery in the main Zanskar valley; some of the other monasteries they built are: Teta, Muni, Phuktal, Pune, Bardol, Togrimo, Padum, Pipting, Tondhe, Zangla, Linshot and Sumda. Gelugpa monastery is another important monastery in Khursha village, which has an excellent display of mural arts. – Wikipedia

Day 11 – Trek Tzazar Doksa (Zangla Sumdo) Camp 3825m
We start our wild, 5-day Himalayan trekking route (many of them sandal and trekking pole days, including today during which we have 20+ river crossings) through the colorful gorges and canyons from Zanskar and Zangla to the remote Shade valley, beginning with a section of the Jumlam, or ‘middle route’. The Jumlam is an old Silk Route trail leading into Zanskar, a Ladakh Zanskar trek used when the rivers were low enough to trek along the riverbeds.

Leaving our Zangla campsite, we trek for 45-minutes past the Mon carved mani ‘chorten’ stone and up to the Zangla Ani Gompa (nunnery), and continue along the road past the once-impressive King of Zangla’s house. We continue to ascend for another half hour to the impressive Zangla Fort, home to the kings of Zangla of yore. Just afterwards, heading left on the jeep track, we pass the protector deity’s small lhakhang (god’s house) on the right of the trail followed by ancient lookout towers on both sides of the valley, now crumbling and in ruins, attesting to the importance of the Jumlam trade route centuries ago.

We walk along the irrigation ditch for a bit while descending and soon reach the green doksa of the Tsazar villagers. From here we head left, or east, along the Zumlung Chu (river), crossing many times in the willow-shaded valley full of ancient beds of fossilized oysters. It should take us about five hours of hilly walking, with many river crossings, to reach our campsite, just past the turnoff (to the right) leading to the main Jumlam route and the Charchar La. Our camp at Tzazar Doksa is lovely and warm, surrounded by willows, but loses the sun early (4:30 pm) so our hint is to climb to the plateau 100m above camp, cross the river where there are many doksas and a grassy spring, or back to the sumdo (river intersection), which keeps the sun until 6 pm. There are blue sheep and ibex in this valley, as well as (potentially) bears, the grass is lovely for some stretching or yoga, and the stream is refreshing for a post-hike wash. There are local greens near the doksas, which we’ll pick for a delicious addition to our evening meal. (6 hrs, km)
DISTANCE

Day 12 – Trek Pandang La High Camp 4450m
We follow the shimmering Zumlung Chu on today’s Zanskar trek, with plenty of ‘Himalayan flat’ throughout the day. Leaving camp, we hike for 5 minutes through thick seabuckthorne bushes to a doksa. The first two hours of hiking are easy, crossing the river many times in a magical valley which opens up as we head north. Note the amazing canyon on our left and the dramatic, soaring canyons in general as we hike. The valley is full of ‘dinosaur plants’, willows and oyster beds, a rocky, narrow valley of large scree trails. At the second sumdo, or river junction, at 3950 meters the trail narrows and we trek through a batch of seabuckthorne bushes, with tart, orange berries amongst sharp thorns. Our trail undulates as we negotiate the tricky valley floor, often climbing and descending to avoid sheer rocks dropping to the river or thick groves of underbrush. This route is the grazing area of Tzazar villagers (just south of Zangla), who use the valley as their summer pastures.

Finally, we make a sharp right, cross the stream, leave the river and ascend steeply for a bit on a trail of loose scree and rocks, which eventually flattens out. Flowers and oasis of trees appear in the stark landscape, softening it, and our trail becomes more gradual. We turn directly left through a grove of willows, passing our hidden Bazza Camp (4250m), a green pasture by a clear stream named after our friend Bazza who celebrated his birthday here in during our exploratory trek in this region.

From here we have one last steep ascent through green pastures, passing several doksas and grazing yaks, staying on a trail over the steep ravine below us to our right. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, so keep your eyes open as you walk through the green plateaus ahead. After about 45 minutes we reach our small, green Pandang La High Camp, with a very cold spring and incredible views including tomorrow’s Pandang La. We have encountered a herd of semi-wild Zanskari horses at this dramatic high camp, possessive of their grazing area and quite aggressive towards our horses. (5 hrs, km)

Day 13 – Trek Yangdam Chen 4430m | Cross Pandang La 5175m
Another Himalayan pass day, starting with yet another steep ascent through meadows colored with pink and red bistort, the views increasingly spectacular as we look back to the craggy peaks of Zanskar behind us. We’ll trek for about 2½ hours to crest the Pandang La, where we’ll stop and admire the panorama of Himalayan peaks from this remote pass. The trail to our right at the pass as we look ahead towards Shade leads, eventually, to Tsazar. A route to explore another year …

The descent begins with an easy 20 minute of contouring to the left, followed by a steeper descent down into the Niri Chu valley. We’ll stop for lunch at the first green plateau about 45 minutes below the pass, or possibly at camp 30 minutes from here. Camp is on a small, green plateau with a frigid spring (spout) in back. There is lots to explore if you have the energy for some hiking above camp, across the river. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, we’ve often spotted snow leaopard tracks, and there is also a good deal of bird life including hoopoes along the riverside amongst the collection of doksas. (5 hrs, km)

Day 14 – Trek Mitsik Doksa 4285m | Cross Liyu La 4375m & Lar La 4690m
An adventurous and beautiful river day, with an incredible array of wildlife living amongst the craggy hillsides, judging from the prints we encounter. Bear, wolf, snow leopard, blue sheep, red fox are among the tracks that we generally encounter, an exciting route!

Leaving camp, we cross our river almost immediately and continue along the right banks of the river for half an hour on a relatively flat trail. At the sumdo of this river and the Niri Chu we pass by a large river valley to the left that leads to the nomadic region of Kharnak. We have to cross Niri Chu, and then continue to cross this river throughout the morning, staying mostly at river level. Wear sandals or running shoes and have your trekking poles with you! The valley is a dramatic combination of soaring cliff-walls, canyons and green river valleys, lovely.

After about three hours of river hiking we cross the small, intersecting stream coming from our left and climb for a short time to a grassy plateau, the Niri Chun camp from our exploratory trek, our river crossings finished. We soon reach Shade Pullu, another doksa, and then have 45 min – 1 hour of slightly exposed, high trails to reach the ridge-top Liyu La, a dramatic vantage point from where we look out to our next pass, the Lar La. The ascent to the Lar La isn’t nearly as daunting as it looks from the Liyu La, though it is a big climb.

We’ll rest for a bit at the pass, and then descend for 15 minutes (about 150m) to the Niri Doksa valley, from where we begin to climb again up the steep grazing ridge towards the Lar La. We will stop for lunch about half way up the steep, switch-backing trail. The pass generally takes about 1½ hours to climb, the craggy rock outcropping at the top a welcome sight! The views from this pass are some of the most dramatic in the valley, worth a half hour of gazing back over the remote river valleys that we trekked through, and onwards towards Shade.

Our descent is another steep one as the valley drops right down to a green campsite called Mitsik Doksa, where the staff have set up camp at yet another mind-boggling beautiful camp right on the shimmering, clear and pebbly riverside. Mitsik Doksa is a wide flood plain along the river, absolutely wonderful, sometimes visited by locals from Shade on their way to or from a doksa. Take the afternoon to do some laundry and explore down the river valley towards Niri Chu, which snakes through deep canyons below us. We’re right below tomorrow’s pass, the Rotang La, so we will arrive at Shade early enough to explore this wonderful remote village. (8 hrs, km)

Day 15 – Trek Shade 4270m | Cross Rotang La 4890m
It’s about a three hours climb to the Rotang La from camp, hiking somewhat steeply past Rotang Doksa (4470m) where we might find some fresh sheep or goat yogurt if the villagers have camped here. From the doksa, the trail switchbacks a bit more gradually through local pea plants to the Rotang La, festooned with prayer flags, and with impressive views! The descending valley on the Shade side is colorful in shades of yellows, oranges and reds, and it’s a lovely and easy descent of about an hour to Shade, with one small ridge between. We’ve seen snow leopard prints in this valley as well, as you would expect near a remote village of herders. Just before the village we pass an extensive collection of white-washed chortens, signs of Shade’s importance along the ancient salt trade routes …

Our campsite is just before Shade, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for washing, and for sunrise and sunset photos of Shade village and its patchwork of fields. The villagers and village kids will be by in the afternoon, and at sunset the large flocks of sheep and goats are herded into the closed paddocks for milking, the herders carrying essential loads of dried grasses, alfalfa and pea plants on their backs.

Shade, not often visited by Westerners, is one of the most interesting villages we’ll encounter on our trek, so we will head out to explore after lunch. The village is a cluster of 14 traditional, closely packed Zanskari mud-brick houses, with corrals for the goats and sheep, grass drying on the rooftops, small vegetable gardens. There are approximately 95 inhabitants, of whom three of the men are in the Indian Army, bringing a bit of extra wealth to the village. There are also five lamas/monks and one ‘chomo’, or nun, residing in the village, and our friend the amchi (also the headman), with his wife and five children, impressive for a remote village of this size. We’ll visit some of the local houses for a glass of tea, chang (Tibetan barley beer), yogurt from the nearby doksa or some churpi (dried cheese).

Shade is surrounded by extensive fields of barley (ne), potatoes (aloo), sag (shema) and snap peas and they also have greenhouses in which they grow radish (labo), cilantro, cabbage, cauliflower and carrots. Some of the locals stay up in the doksas north of our campsite, sometimes returning every few days and other times staying longer. The villagers rotate grazing their flocks and protecting them from the many wolves and snow leopards in the area! Local words for some of the wildlife we might encounter: snow leopard (shen), ibex (hin), blue sheep (nabo) and wolf (shanku). (4½ hrs, km)

Day 16 – Trek Yatah 3995m
Another amazing trekking day ahead as we head to Yatah, our next remote campsite, located half way to Phuktal Gompa in Central Zanskar. Leaving the Shangri-La of Shade via a trail directly below the village, we pass through the entrance chorten and descend past the harvesting villagers for about 45 minutes to where the river plummets through a narrow gorge and the canyon closes in on us. We’ve watched flocks of 45+ ibex grazing in this valley, where locals collect village fodder at the end of the summer. At the intersection of the Niri Chu (river) we reach the village ‘lhatoo’ (4100 m), a kata-covered monument dedicated to Shade’s protector deity called Cho Gyumjang, a female goddess. Her peak is just to the left if you’re looking up the narrow canyon towards Shade, and locals invite the monks from Phuktal Gompa to have a yearly puja for her (which we’ve been lucky to witness).

Turning left at the lhatoo, with the turqouise Niri Chu once again far below us, we have about ten minutes of slightly exposed trail as we head towards Trantrog Gompa (4020m). Soon the valley opens, the turquoise river takes wide S turns and our canyons become dramatic hoodoos over the riverbed. We can see the tiny hamlet of Trantog ahead, with its small gompa said to be either 30-40 or 750 years old. Perhaps there was an ancient meditation cave at the site of this gompa, which the caretaker told us was built by a lama from Phuktal. The interesting woman who holds the key might be around to show us the village treasures. There are apparently only three people living in the village and about as many houses. Still, it’s certainly a scenic spot built up on a craggy hill overlooking this idyllic valley.

From Trantog we descend to the willow-lined Niri Chu which we cross on a bridge (which was a bit sketch in 2022), afterwards climbing on an exposed trail to a contouring trail high above the valley, following the the river on the opposite side. Soon we reach ‘Trantog Sumdo’ (3960m) leading to the Shun Shade valley. We contour on a wide trail above the Nialo Kontse Chu, which the river has become after the last intersection, for another 1½ hours. We pass a new and an old bridge across the river, the old one an original rope bridge, and have lunch by a gnarly ancient juniper stump overlooking the gorge. Three ridges later we’ve reached Tsarap Sumdo (3920m), and then we have only 30 minutes to camp at the high grazing pastures of Yatah. Yatah is about 150 meters above the trail to the right, an unexpected site after our narrow, steep-sided canyon, and it will take another half an hour to reach it. (5½ hrs, km)

Day 17 – Trek Phuktal Gompa & Purne 3830m | Cross Phuktal La 4005m
Another wonderful Zanskari trekking day, starting with a climb of 100 meters above camp to drop back down to the main trail a bit further on, avoiding a cliff section of trail below. From the flags at the top of the ridge, we descend back down to meet a new, cantilevered bridge and the main trail to Phuktal. On the other side of this small gully we contour on a good trail high above the Tsarap Chu and past several small doksa. It’s a hot trail as the high altitude sun reflects off the mica-filled sandy hills around us. We have a long, dusty and hot climb to reach the Phuktal La, from where we’re treated to a tremendous view over the spectacular Phuktal Gompa and the green, checkered valley. We’ll stop for lunch here, at the massive, white-washed chorten, followed by a very short descent to the iconic Buddhist monastery.

Phuktal Gompa (3900m), which translates as ‘the cave of leisure or liberation’, is spectacularly built into a cliff-side, one of the most colorful gompas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya (15th century, although information inside the monastery claims that it’s nearly 1000 years old). Phuktal Gompa has a school attached, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The monastery is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsored for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali (and our first Kamzang Kid), stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being ‘evicted’ for bad behavior. Alexander Csoma de Kőrös also spent time translating in this monastery (see below).

Phuktal Gompa
“Phuktal Monastery is built around a natural cave, which is believed to have been visited by numerous sages, scholars, translators, and monks around 2,550 years ago. The remote location of the monastery was ideal for monks looking for peace and solitude to meditate. The present Phuktal Gompa, of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, was established in the early 15^h century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa. Tsongkhapa was the founder of Gelug, which is one of the newest schools of Tibetan Buddhism.

Believed to be one of the earliest residents of the cave are the 16 Arhats, or the legendary followers of Buddha. The images of these 16 Arhats appear on the cave walls. The great scholars and translators Padmasambhava and Phakspa Nestan Dusdan are believed to have lived in the cave, and so is the great leader and translator Lama Marpa Lotsawa. In the 12^h century, the Tibetan translator Zanskar Lotsawa Phagpa Sherab also lived and worked from Phuktal. The eminent scholars and brothers Dangsong, Pun, and Sum, who were believed to have the supernatural power of flight gave teachings on Dharma at Phuktal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo arrived at Phuktal, the three brothers bequeathed the holy site to him and departed. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and run from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size. Then, under his guidance, the present structure of the monastery was built around the cave. It is built in the cliffside, like a honeycomb. The cliff is part of a lateral gorge of a major tributary of the Lungnak River (Lingti-Tsarap River). The monastery today houses a main temple, prayer rooms, a library with rare sacred texts, apartments and living quarters, teaching facilities, a kitchen, and of course, the original cave and the sacred spring, which is protected. It is home to about 70 monks.

There is a stone tablet which serves as a reminder of the stay of Alexander Csoma de Kőrös at Phuktal, while he worked on the first English-Tibetan dictionary between 1826 and 1827, when he explored Ladakh.” – Wikipedia

After exploring the gonpa and meeting the many young novice monks, we descend to the Tsarap Chu, crossing this massive river on a long, wooden bridge, from where we have almost two hours of undulating trail to camp. After some big floods several years ago, we had to cross this massive river on a locally-constructed vine bridge, and our horses had to swim the huge, fast-flowing river. Scary! It’s a beautiful hike along the left banks of Tsarap Chu on a precipitous, undulating and recently improved canyon trail, with road building in progress closer to Purne.

Purne, on the main Zanskar trail, is at confluence of the Tsarap Chu and the Kargiak Chu, and there are sure to be other trekkers and travelers staying at this hub as the road to the Singge La and Himachel Pradesh passes by Purne now. Camp at Norboo’s guest house and campsite is warm, a beautiful spot to relax, so take advantage of the free time to do some laundry and have a cold beer from the local shop-teahouse, run by Norboo’s lovely daughters. Sadly, the oldest daughter Angmo, married to a good friend, from Padum, died of cancer in 2022. Their aunt Dolma, the local amchi, is also a good friend of ours from years ago and owns a lodge next door. Showers available at the guest house! (7 hrs, km)

Day 18 – Trek Tangze 4015m
Leaving our lovely camp at Purne, we descend back down to the small bridge and then hike back up to the main Zanskar trail following the Kargiak Chu. We pass the small village of Yal, where fodder and kindling dry on the rooftops, in half an hour, and then continue on our high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu for another hour until we reach the labyrinthine village of Testa, an oasis of green fields and traditional Zanskari houses. Next comes the colorful Kuru with its many threshing circles and white-washed mani walls. Trekking further along the trail past Kuru’s long chain of mani walls, we descend crossing a small stream coming down from our right, and then continue along the river bank for another half an hour. We cross the Kargiak Chu on a large bridge, continuing for another hour or so to the village of Tangze, with its many-hued patchwork of fields. We’ll stop at the small the small teahouse, owned by our friend Sonam Dorje and run by his two daugters. Sonam’s son Phuntsok is the local amchi of Tangze. 

The staff has set up camp in Sonam Dorje’s campsite, as we prepare to leave the main Zanskar valley behind the day after tomorrow. Above us to the right of the trail is Tangze Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, backed by jagged, dun-colored peaks (and renovated in 2022, losing much of its charm). Have a walk around the 2-tiered village, alive with birdlife, and green with almost ripe barley, pea and dal plants, and bush with locals in the fields, and kids returning from school. (5 hrs, 14km)

Day 19 – Trek Kargiak 4110m | via Tangso & Skyng
We’ll enjoy the scenic hike to beautiful Kargiak village, the first southern village in Zanskar. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who still moves to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime. It’s a 2 – 3 hour hike directly to Kargiak, following the Kargiak Chu through a scenic, green valley dotted with villages, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front of us in the direction of the Shingo La pass to Lahaul.

For those who’d like a longer, cultural hike en route to Kargiak, we have the option to hike along the opposite side of the river, ascend gradually for about 45 minutes and cross the intersecting river on a (shaky) bridge, and visit the lovely and cultural village of Tangso, with its large school and tiers of barley fields. We’ll continue down the valley to Skyng, perhaps stopping for a cup of tea or our lunch at Singge’s sister Tsering’s house. Tsering has 5 children, the youngest 2-year-old was home in 2022. Skyng is always bustling with harvest activity, the golden barley undulating in the wind, the yaks and dzobkios (dzos) tied by the nose rings to their stakes …

We cross a small bridge over the Kargiak Chu and reach the main road, where we really see what the road has done to Zanskar in terms of development. There’s even a cement heli-pad at the northern end of town!  Finally we reach our green, riverside campsite at Kargiak. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered Sun School build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. Singge’s blind mother and other relatives also live in the village, so we’ll stop for a visit in the afternoon. (2½ – 5 hrs, 9+ km)

---

EXPLORATORY ROUTE
Day 20 – Trek Surichun La High Camp
An exploratory day of trekking, leaving Kargiak and trekking just to the south of the village, over the small stream heading east towards the Surichun La. Villagers have told us that camp is is a lovely high plateau, probably about a 5 hour hike from the village on a well-used grazing trail. (5 hrs, km)

Day 21 – Trek Chumik Marpo | Cross Surichun La 5620m
Another exploratory day crossing the high Surichun La, though we end up in the same campsite as crossing the Phirtse La. It will be a long and challenging day reaching this high pass, where the mountain views are sure to be exceptional! Descending, the valley eventually widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargiak over the Phirtse La.

The valley widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, a green doksa colored with high alpine flowers which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargyak over the 4620 meter Surichun La. (8 hrs, km)

---

TRADITIONAL ROUTE
Day 19 – Tangze | Day Hike Kargiak 4110m
If we’ve made it through the trek without needing this extra day, in Zanskar, we’ll use this day for a day hike to Kargiak. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who still moves to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime. It’s a two to three hour walk each way following the Kargiak Chu through a scenic, green valley dotted with villages, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front of us in the direction of the Shingo La pass to Lahaul. We’ll hike along the opposite side of the river, and visit the lovely and cultural villages of Tangso and Skyng en route, perhaps stopping for a cup of tea at Singge’s cousin’s house. Skyng is always bustling with harvest activity, the golden barley undulating in the wind.

We cross a small bridge over the Kargiak Chu to reach our green, riverside campsite at Kargiak, and then head out to explore the village. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered school build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. We’ll return to Tangze along the straight trail on the same side of the river. (7 hrs r/t, 9 km)

Day 20 – Trek Zingchen 4605m or Phirtse La High Camp 4915
We’re heading along an ancient trans-Himalayan trade route for the rest of the trek, part of the old Silk Route. Until the 1980s the Changpas from Tibet came two times a year to trade barley with the Zanskaris. Starting in Serchu on the Leh-Manali highway, they crossed the Phirtse La with their caravans and arrived at Tangze in the Lungnak valley to trade their salt and wool. See Janet Rizvi’s ‘Caravans of the Himalayas’ for more about this.

A beautiful day of trekking as we head west up the second valley just beyond Tangze. The checker of vibrant green field opens up below us as we climb higher, passing the tri-colored chortens at the far end of the village and entering the narrow gorge to our left and climbing steeply. We follow a trickle of a stream on colored river rocks, taking a sharp turn right up the steep hillside to our right. Look for blue sheep and horns as we hike. We climb through green pastures and a doksa, and an hour plus later we’ve reach a craggy ridge which we call the Tangze La (4585m) which offers magnificent views down to lower Zanskar and towards the Shingo La (pass) leading to Lahaul. Below us, spread throughout the Zanskar valley, the hillsides are colored in shades of eggplant, green and mustard. River deltas below create artistic patterns and blue flowers surrounded by a sage-like brush decorate the ground underfoot.

We descend gently, cross a few small streams and set up camp at what locals call Zingchen, an idyllic green campsite in the valley. We may head another few hours up the valley to the higher Phirtse La High Camp depending on the condition of the lower camp, and the weather. (5 hrs, km)

Day 21 – Trek Chumik Marpo 4765m | Cross Phirtse La 5580m
We’ll have an early start for our crossing of the epic Phirtse La pass, which will take us at least 5 hours to ascend as we gain 950m! Crossing to the other side of the valley 15 minutes past camp, usually jump able, we climb and descend on thes bank of the river as we head towards the pass. We pass a small doksa, a campsite for a small group, after an hour or so, afterwards crossing the river again back to the left bank. 2 ½ hours from camp we finally reach Phirtse La High Camp (4900m), after which the trail turns rocky and we share the valley with grazing yaks as we trek along scree trails above the glaicial river. The colors of the valley turn shades of grey, black and ochre as we ascend on a good path, stopping for a break at a green patch with a large boulder and admiring the glaciers and snow-peaks that surround us (3-4 hrs). The last, steep, 400-meter switchback brings us, grindingly, to the crest of the Phirtse La, an impressive climb and a sublime Himalayan view!

Heading down the right hand valley we enter another green, fertile grazing valley and follow the rolling hills for an hour, having lunch at a sheltered doksa. We cross the small stream next to us, climb a small ridge and then the right fork of the valley. After a steep climb and descent on a shale trail, jumping several small streams and with a little bit of mild exposure, we contour around brown, undulating hillsides, passing far above several local doksas. The valley widens and we reach another wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, a green doksa colored with high alpine flowers which overlooks rolling green hills ahead. Behind is the route to Kargyak over the 4620 meter Surichun La. (8 – 9½ hrs, 17 km)

Day 22 – Trek Berga Songchak 4410m
We have 2 river crossing this morning, so have your sandals ready as we trek past marmots and local yaks, grazing in the high, green pastures near our campsite. We hike for about 45 minutes to reach a plateau camp, followed by a stone doksa, and then continue along the same side of the river for another hour to reach the wide and cold crossing, our first of the day, a mossy, somewhat slippery one.

Afterwards more trekking amongst green valleys and lovely rolling hills, a little piece of nomadic paradise in the Indian Himalaya. Valleys to the right lead to snow-peaks and the river grows as glacial melt adds to its volume. Lichen covered granite, weather-worn sedimentary rocks and purple flowers dot the landscape; we start to pass long, ancient mani walls signifying that we’re entering nomadic lands. The walking is easy with flat trails and grass underfoot, with a few small climbs en route. We pass more signs of nomadic existence and then have to cross the wide and often difficult Khamberop Togpo (river) at Kham Krap. We may take people over on horses; at the least use poles and link arms; the river is always wide, but generally not very deep.

These next two days, in the lower reaches of the Himalayan peaks, we often pass local ‘gaddi’ shepherds from Lahaul and the neighboring Hindu valleys with their large flocks of sheep and goats as we continue towards Sarchu, past Kyonon doksa. Eroded hoodoos look like stone-age cathedrals on the opposite side of the river. We trek through this wide expanse of river, green valleys, blue sky and snow peaks, past mani stones with chortens carved into them, and over a few small ridges for an hour before heading directly down through the eroded hoodoos to the river and another idyllic campsite at Berga Songchak, right on the relatively clear river. (5 hrs, 13 km)

Day 23 – Trek Chumik Gyartse 4280m
We continue hiking through this magical nomadic Ladakhi landscape, crossing several more small streams and trekking past ancient rocks deposited by glaciers eons ago. There is a small stream to jump and green springs just past camp, after which we climb briefly back up to the plateau and reach a line of Tibetan nomadic doksas.

There are several deep valleys to descend into and climb out of, a few more streams to cross and more green plateaus to hike across until we reach the canyons leading to Sarchu. (Sarchu is across the large Lingti Chu (river) from our campsite at Chumik Gyartse). We descend steeply from the plateau, and just before our old campsite at Sarchu on our side of the river we have a quite large river crossing (depending on the water level). Afterwards, we hike through a briar patch of seabuckthorne, following a spring-fed stream, jumping or wading through a few intersecting streams. Soon we reach a large bridge spanning the Tsarap Chu and hike about 45 minutes north (along a flat trail) towards our wonderful campsite at the waterfall springs just below Chumik Gyartse.

Chumik Gyartse is where the Shun Shade valley inhabitants relocated years ago, and it’s interesting to hike half an hour above our camp to their new village. There is much controversy over whether life was better or worse in their old valley, the elders tending to regret the move. Check out the incredible falls and mineral springs just past camp, well worth a last day’s refreshing Himalayan shower!

Ang Chuk and the drivers will meet us at camp, having parked their jeeps past at the Sarchu army camp on the plateau across the river. We can look across the river to the Leh-Manali highway but our campsite is isolated and beautiful, on the side of a small stream for washings. We’ll have our tips party for the Kamzang Journeys staff tonight; Ang Chuk always brings us our order of beers! (6 hrs, 16 km)

Day 24 – Drive Leh
We have a 20-minute hike upstream and across the bridge, and a last climb up to the embankment, and our epic Ladakh trek through the Indian Himalaya is finished! We’ll relax in the jeeps and enjoy the spectacular 5-hour drive through Rupshu, along the Manali – Leh highway, turn left at Umchi and then drive along the Indus Highway past Hemis, Stakna, Matho and Thikse monasteries, Shey Gompa and its crumbling fortress and eventually Stok palace (on alternating sides of the valley), a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori and cold beers are not far away! (5 hrs drive)

Day 25 – Leh
One last day in Leh, our favorite Central Asian capital, in case of delays during the trek. You’ll also have time to do some more shopping and exploring, and to wind down after our journey through the remote routes of Ladakh and Zanskar.

Day 26 – Trip Ends | Transfer Leh Airport
Our wonderful journey through the Indian Himalaya ends today. We will transfer you to the Kushok Bakula Rimpoche Airport for your return journey. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic ‘jeep safari’ back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We’re happy to assist on all fronts, but Leh flights are not included in our India treks.

Extra Days in Leh
We are happy to book extra nights at the hotel, or a hotel of your choice, if you want to stay in Leh for a few extra days to explore our favorite Central Asian capital, or just to relax and soak in the mountain scenery. We are also happy to book trips to Nubra, the high lake region (Pangong, Tsomoriri + Tso Kar), sightseeing jeep safaris along the Indus Valley, rafting, bicycling down the Kardung La or any other activity you’d like!

TRAVEL NOTE | If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh.

Days 1 – 10 – See Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek
This section of the trek is the same as the longer trek.

Extra Day – Zangla Doksa River Camp
Finally a rest and exploration day; options are to hang at camp and relax in this sublime setting or to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla.

ZANGLA OPTION |  Climbing gradually out of our campsite, we hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village, and then follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where we had tea last summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The young King of Zangla is now in his 40s, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter! The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 500 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.

ZANSKAR VALLEY GOMPA OPTION: Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum. You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. From Sani, you can take the back roads to Karsha Gompa, one of the largest and most scenic in Zanskar or Ladakh, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, worth a look if you’re stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill in the direction of Stongde. And that should be a full day!

Kim & Lhakpa will head to Padum to resupply for the second half of the trek. Some people might want to head to central Zanskar to make a wonderful Zanskar gompa tour.

Day 11 – Drive Rangdum
Sadly, it’s time to say goodbye to trekkers from the longer trek. You have an incredible jeep safari through Zangla, the Suru Valley and finally the western Indus Valley ahead!

After returning to Padum (option to visit the central Zangla monasteries if you didn’t yesterday), you will drive north from Padum heading for Rangdum. You’ll stay the night at a homestay in Randgum, visiting its historic Rangdum Gompa, perched on top of a small hill in the midst of a wide Tibetan-style valley, guarded by massive, whitewashed chortens. Randum is one of our favorite villages, remote enough to not get many trekkers or visitors, with a distinctly Tibetan look although a bit of Muslim influence, and friendly villagers. You may have the chance to visit a local home, or at least have a cup of salt-butter tea with the homestay owners.

Rangdum Gompa is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery of the Gelugpa sect at the base of the Suru Valley, with about 30 monks, situated next to the small hamlet of Zhuldo. The monastery was constructed about 200 years ago by Gelek Yashy Takpa during the reign of King Tsewang Mangyul of Ladakh. Both the village and the gompa rely on supplies from the Muslim villages of the Suru Valley as their summer growing season is too brief to sustain themselves during the long, harsh winters.

Day 12 – Drive Lamayuru
A continuation of the stunning and intensely intersting Suru Valley jeep safari, today through the Muslim sections of Ladakh. We’ll pass through numerous Muslim villages, where the greeting is ‘As-Salaam-Alaikum’ (peace be with you), to which you answer ‘Wa-Alaikum-Salaam’. The beautiful green and blue-eyed women cover their heads in patterned scarves and wear the colorful and practical salwar kameez. The often bearded men dress in a long, Muslim coat and have a disarmingly direct stare, a genuine smile and lovely crinkled eyes from the harsh sun. En route we drive past the spectacularly beautiful glaciers coming from Nun and Kun peaks, climbed from green base camps to our left as we head north. We drive through Suru village and then continue along this scenic and diverse road until we reach bustling, Mulsim Kargil with its many fruit and vegetable markets. Once past Kargil we turn right (east) and follow the Wakha Chu for an hour or so to scenic Mulbeck, were we’ll stop for lunch an kilometer past town (if we haven’t in Kargil) at a small but clean ‘dhaba’ and gaze at the ancient stone Chamba, an iconic statue carved into the rock face to the right of the road. Chamba (Tibetan) or Maitreya (Sanskrit) is the future Buddha. It is said to date back to the Kushan period of the early 1st or 2nd century. Modern scholars place it in the 8th century. To the front right of the statue is a small Buddhist shrine.

Nearby are ancient inscriptions written in Kharosthi script and an edict issued by King Lde, who ruled western Ladakh in the 15th century, to discontinue sacrificing goats. (Wikipedia): ‘Every year at least once or twice in each village the heart was torn out of a living goat in front of an altar. King Lde had the following inscription carved: “Oh Lama (Tsongkapa (1378-1441) take notice of this! The king of faith, Bum lde, having seen the fruits of works in the future life, gives orders to the men of Mulbe to abolish, above all, the living sacrifices, and greets the Lama. The living sacrifices are abolished.” Sadly, the people of Mulbekh found this too onerous to follow, for beside King Lde’s edict, on the same rock, is an inscription saying the order was too hard to be executed. “For what would the local deity say, if the goat were withheld from him?” ‘

Kushan Empire (Wikipedia) – ‘The Kushans spread from the Kabul River Valley to encompass much of the Indo-Greek Kingdom, from which they took their first official language (Greek), Bactrian alphabet, Greco-Buddhist religion, coinage system, and art. They absorbed the Central Asian tribes that had previously conquered parts of the northern central Iranian Plateau once ruled by the Parthians,[citation needed] and reached their peak under the Buddhist emperor Kanishka the Great, whose realm stretched from Turfan in the Tarim Basin to Pataliputra on the Gangetic Plain.

During the 1st and early 2nd centuries CE, the Kushans expanded across the northern parts of the Indian subcontinent at least as far as Saketa and Sarnath near Varanasi (Benares), where inscriptions have been found dating to the era of the Kushan emperor Kanishka the Great, which began about 127 CE. Though Kanishka greatly honored Buddhism, he is said to have protected the teachings of Zoroastrianism and Hinduism as well. Kanishka sent his armies north of the Karakoram mountains. They captured territories as far as Kashgar, Khotan and Yarkant, in the Tarim Basin of modern-day Xinjiang, China. A direct road from Gandhara to China was opened which remained under Kushan control for more than a century. The security offered by the Kushans encouraged travel across the Khunjerab Pass and facilitated the spread of Mahayana Buddhism to China.’

History lesson over, you depart this history-laden spot and continue on towards Lamayuru, two hours of winding roads, crossing two small passes (the larger the Photu La 4090m) followed by the dramatic switchback to Lamayuru Gompa, with several wonderful viewpoints en route.

Once in Lamayuru you will check in to the Moonland Hotel and have time to visit Lamayuru Monastery in the evening. The light at dusk is sublime, and the hotel is perfectly situated to photograph the monastery as the sun sets …

Day 13 – Drive Leh
You can stop at the gompa to visit the chapels in the morning before continueing the descent to the intersection of the road leading to Wanla and the start of the traditional Ladakh to Zanskar trek on the right of the river at the Yapola River. Another half an hour on a good, paved road and we meet and cross the mighty Indus, locally known as the Sengee Kha Babs (mouth of the lion river). Our scenic drive continues past the turnoff to Alchi, Basgo, the intersection of the Zanskar and Indus rivers, Spikuk Gompa and finally Leh, which is about three hours of driving from Lamayuru.

You’ll have the opportunity to visit any or all of these monasteries en route if you choose. Back at the Shaynam or Omasila in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and a delicious Asian fusion meal is not far away at Chopsticks.

Day 14 – Trip Ends | Transfer Leh Airport
Our wonderful Himalayan journey ends today. We will transfer you to the Kushok Bakula Rimpoche Airport for your return journey. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic ‘jeep safari’ back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We’re happy to assist on all fronts, but Leh flights are not included in our India treks.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights  Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Trip Highlights

• Exotic Leh & the historic Indus Valley
• Dramatic canyonlands
• The best of Zanskar & Ladakh
• Wild Shade – Zangla route
• Remote Bear Valley
• Zangla Palace & Fort
• Canyons, river crossings & far-flung villages
• Tibetan Buddhist gompas of Zanskar
• Challenging trekking & high passes
• Sublime Himalayan scenery
• Central Asian wildlife
• Few other trekkers & our secret routes!
• Extra days for exploration …

Client Highlights
A truly outstanding trek experience; Kim and her team are amazing! This is the second Kamzang Journeys trek I have taken. Every aspect of the trip was well planned and executed. The entire team is professional and make every effort to make the trip an outstanding experience. If you are considering a trek, Kamzang Journeys is the company to go with!
– Vernon G (USA), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2019

A fabulous trekking company! I trekked with Kamzang Journeys in the Indian Himalayas – Ladakh and Zanskar – for two months this summer. Our leader Kim Bannister, the guides, and staff were all excellent. Meals were delicious, healthful, and varied. Our individual tents were spacious, and I appreciate the fact that there is no single supplement. Though the trails were sometimes challenging and the elevations high, we stayed healthy and happy for the entire two months, a rarity when trekking for this amount of time at high elevations. Kamzang Journeys’ trips are an excellent value, especially when you factor in all of the luxuries we enjoyed. Thank you Kamzang Journeys!
– Jasmine S (USA), Ladakh Nomads, Lakes & High Passes AND Wild West Ladakh & Zanskar Traverse Treks 2018

This was a fabulous trek in the high Himalayas! Kim Bannister, the owner of the company and the main guide on this trip, was knowledgeable about the area, the route and the people. She went above and beyond to take care of all the trekker’s needs and make sure everyone was comfortable. The staff and the horsemen were competent, helpful and friendly. The overall experience was excellent and I would definitely do another trip with Kamzang Journeys.
– Brooke Saindon (USA), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2018

High passes, nomads and wild, remote country; adventure is never far! I have just returned from two months trekking in the Ladakh-Zanskar region in India with Kim and her excellent team. This was my SEVENTH trek with Kim and I would have to say they get better each year. Kamzang Journeys never disappoints. From the very high standard, variety and amount of food, to the spacious 3-man tents (for each individual), to the safety and care shown by her staff and to the unique dining tent that all other groups envy. If you are looking for a remote, interesting trek or trip in Asia I would highly recommend Kamzang Journeys. There is a reason everyone comes back!
– Sue W (Australia), Nomads, Lakes + High Passes AND Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse Treks 2018

Fabulous trekking in a fabulous region! I love Ladakh and came here first in 1981 (trekking from Manali to Leh). I’ve been back six times (now) since and all of the six have been with Kim Bannister and Kamzang Journeys. She and her crew find superb remote routes (and avoid the ever increasing road network); their attention to the comfort of the well being of the customers is second to none. There is no single supplement it is assumed you’ll have your own (large) tent which makes daily routine so much easier and more enjoyable with plenty of room to have your kit in your tent. The dining tent is erected as soon as you are in camp and provides tea/coffee biscuits and a nice place to sit in between meals. Trekking in Ladakh in June – September is ‘summer’ so the days are quite long (light by 5.30 a.m. and not dark until 7.30 p.m. in July) so having had a day’s walking you get into camp with plenty of daylight left and you can wash yourself and any clothes and both will dry. It also provides time to relax in the sun. The weather is lovely; hot days (shirtsleeves) and cool nights are perfect for sleeping. Very little in the way of biting insects! Kim’s cooks are super and the menus great with lots of fresh vegetables and fresh fruit (and she arranges for a mid trek re-supply of these). Breakfasts are varied … porridge, eggs (of your choice), and a daily ‘baked product’. Superb ahead of a day’s walking. Hygiene standards are super … I’ve never had an upset stomach on trek with Kim … an excellent first aid kit is carried for any needs that may arise. Can’t recommend them enough … they’re a happy team (and it’s the same crew year after year). One of the last great wilderness regions of the world and one of the few trekking destinations where the optimum time to go is during the European summer holidays!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2018

Outstanding trekking adventure, first class guides and personal attention – this is why Kamzang has so many repeat clients! We trekked with Kim Bannister and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa for 22 days through remote Zanskar in Aug 2014. It was the adventure of a lifetime. Kim has many years experience and a loyal team of support staff and horsemen. Food and camping were very well organized; Kim and Lhakpa lead us through stunning scenery into remote Zanskari villages. Their detailed local knowledge and ability to speak with villagers made for a memorable rich experience. Over high passes and crossing rivers we always were in good hands. Thoroughly recommended if you really want to trek off the map.
– David R. & Kathy F (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2014

This was the third time I’ve trekked with Kamzang Journeys and Kim and her crew it was lovely to be back amongst friends. Ladakh is a fabulous destination and a real step back in time to ‘real’ travelling. Trekking with Kim and her crew is authentic but also luxurious; a single tent as standard, the ‘Festival Tent’ for relaxation and meals, hot water for tea/coffee on ‘tap’, and great standards of cooking! No fears of food poisoning as hygiene is excellent. If you’re stuck with June – September for your long Himalayan trekking Ladakh is the place to go and Kim and Kamzang Journeys are the people to go with!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek & more

A bucket list must, and an expeditionary style adventure in a pristine environment. All at the good hands of Kim Bannister, the organizational wizard, and her extraordinary staff. Kim and her guide partner Lhakpa Dorji led us on an idyllic route through the remote and beautiful Ladakh & Zanskar region of northern India. My initial apprehensions, as a first time trekker, were quickly extinguished by the friendly and professional manner of the competent staff. It was the experience of a life time, certainly one that I will never forget. This trekking company deserves a “5 star rating”! You need only bring a good set of lungs, a strong pair of legs, a zest for adventure and a sense of humor. I will return!
– Tom B (USA), Ladakh & Zanskar Kora Trek 2013

Magnificent treks and highly professional! I have trekked with Kim four times, three in Ladakh in Northern India and one in Nepal. On all four occasions the treks were very well organised and run in a very professional manner. Kim’s crew are all enthusiastic and are very happy to provide assistance where necessary. As trekkers you are very well looked after with individual tents and a large tent for socializing and dining. Kim and Lhakpa plan their treks so they are interesting and that they go off the beaten track and you are not walking in procession with other trekking groups, Kim is aware of the different needs and capabilities of her trekkers and her daily itineraries cater for all. On the more challenging parts of her treks Kim and her crew are always there to support. I hope to do more trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys and highly recommend them.
– Dennis B (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2015, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2013 ++

Thank you very much for a wonderful trek. I felt so very well looked after, from great food to river crossings to much needed breaks and always someone to see that we did not feel lost or alone. Your attention to detail, from the shopping expeditions both in Leh and along the way, from the variety and quality of food to making sure that everything we needed was provided and easy to access, is amazing. Also your energy and generosity of time and spirit in those extra expeditions to nomad tents, the fort etc. when many leaders would have signed off for the day.
– Leslie S (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2012

I have done a number of treks with a variety of companies. One of these treks was to Ladakh, India with Kamzang. I found the trek’s organization and quality of food to be excellent. Equally important was Kim’s knowledge of the cultures that we trekked through, so that we, as relative outsiders, could gain some insight into their lives. However, two things stand out. Kim’s infectious enthusiasm: not just for the landscapes and cultures we passed through but for dad-to-day life on the trek. Secondly, the shared ‘mess-tent’, a haven of comfort and conversation. Very highly recommended.
– Roger E (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2011

What a trip! Thanks for all your hard work and imagination. Truly a spectacular journey and the clientele you attracted was a magnificent bonus.
– Chris R (USA), Wild Ladakh & Rupshu Trek

Wow! What an unforgettable experience you have given me. I was constantly amazed at your patience with the individual needs and concerns of the group and of the heartfelt care and connection you have with your staff and horses. You are a great leadership team and a joy to wake up to each morning! The landscape, the interactions with the villagers, nuns and monks along the way, the exhileration of the more risky bits of the trip and your smiling faces will not be forgotten. Thank you & Jullay!
– Annie K (New Zealand), Wild Zanskar 2010

I think about you and Lhakpa and everybody a lot; and I miss the trek, the beautiful mountains, the amazing sceneries and rich culture there. Every time when I go through my trekking photos, the memories of those great moments come back to me, speaking to me and asking me why I haven’t packed my gears and signed up for my next Himalaya trip?!
– Summer T (China), Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse

I have been on treks with Kim four times. All her trips are superbly well organized and smoothly run. Everything is take care of. The food is great and accommodation good. The only thing you have to do is the walking. It’s a five star service and great value!
– Peter H (UK), Ladakh & Zanskar Treks ++

Kim Bannister Photography | Trek & Travel Photos
Himalayan Trip Photos

Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Articles & Documentaries | Ladakh & Zanskar, Indian Himalaya
Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip | David Koelle | YouTube Video

Stunning Time Lapse of Ladakh in 4K | Reels & Frames

Becoming a Woman in Zanskar | Jean-Michel Corillion

Ladakh Diaries | Postcard from Paradise | India Today – Features Kamzang Journeys

Nomads in Ladakh: Hard Living at Altitude | Blog by France LeClerc

On Snow Leopard Mountain | BBC Planet Earth

Child Monks of the Himalayas | BBC – In Pictures

Chang Tang Pa | Cat Vinton Photo Essay

Silent Roar, The Snow Leopard | National Geographic Documentary

Shepherdess of the Glaciers | Trailer YouTube

Ladakh, Mountains & Men | Le Figaro

Blog Article | Za Rahula Local Nomadic God

Ladakh, the Last Shangri La | National Geographic

A Journey to Little Tibet | National Geographic

Legends of Dha Hanu | Stephan Kloos

India: Extreme Biking in Beautiful Ladakh | The Telegraph UK

The Grey Ghosts of the Mountains | Vimeo

Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times

Cracking India’s Mystifying Nod Code – BBC Travel

The Ravishing Art of Alchi – NY Times Books

The Planet Doesn’t Need Money, It Needs Behavioral Change: Sonam Wanchuk | The Week

A Brother’s Five Decade Search for a Lost King From Ladakh | A Better India

The Ice Stupas | New Yorker

Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | New York Times

Himalaya, Land of Women | Marianne Chaud ZED Arte France

Our World Return to Zanskar | BBC

Kashmir & Srinagar
A Journey to Kashmir’s Gurez Valley | NY Times

Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times

What is Article 270 & Why Does it Matter in Kashmir? | New York Times

Haider | Film about Kashmir

Fascinating Delhi & India Article Series
Jungle Prince of Delhi | NY Times
Mystery of the Royal Family of Oudh Unravels a Bit More | NY Times
Special Episode | The Jungle Prince | NY Times

Street Food in India | India Mike Blog

Gandhi & India | BBC Documentaries
In Search of Gandhi | BBC Documentary
The Making of the Mahatma – Part 1
The Rise to Fame – Part 2
The Road to Freedom – Part 3

Ladakh Cycling Videos
Nubra – Wari La Cycle | David Koelle
Lamayuru, Leh, Nubra + Khardung La Cycle – | David Koelle
Pangong Lake + Chang La Cycle | David Koelle
Srinagar – Lamayuru Cycle | David Koell
Leh – Manali Cycle | David Koelle

Kamzang Journeys | Ladakh Trek Videos
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Changthang Nomads | MennoBen
Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads | MennoBen
Leh + Indus Valley | MennoBen

Dates
TBA
26 Days

TBA (Shorter Trek & Jeep Safari)
21 Days

Trek Price
$4680
26 Days

$4480
21 Days (Includes 3-Day Jeep Safari)

+ NO Single Supplement Shaynam Hotel
+ NO Single Supplement Camping
+ Flights NOT Included (Meet Leh)
+ Short Trek Prices Include 3-Day Jeep Safaris to Leh

Includes

• Hotels in Leh (Breakfast)
• NO Single Supplement for Camping!
• Restricted Area Permits
• Personalized Leh Sightseeing (With Kim)
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• Optional Rafting or Cycling Trips
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
  Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure,  safety, challenge + fun!

Safety & Health Precautions

• Oxygen (cost not included)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (portable oxygen chamber)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Katadyn Filtered Water
• Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks

Excludes

• Domestic + International Fights
• Indian Visa
• Lunch + Dinner in Leh
• Travel + Travel Health Insurance
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
• Gompa (Monastery) Donations
• Laundry (staff will do for donations)
• Tips

Hotels in Leh | Extra Nights & Boutique Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh, Leh Plaza & Hotel Omasila, as our arrival hotels depending on availability and your room preferences. Our standard hotel with no single supplement charge is the Hotel Shaynam. Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay here, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We offer upgrade and single supplement charges for Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Leh, Hotel Leh Plaza and Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay, so please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.

Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Shaynam
Extra Nights – Single $35 | Double $40

Hotel Chosa | Upgrade Charge
Chospa Hotel
Heritage Rooms – Single $165 | Double $185 Night ($825 & $925 Trip)

Hotel Chospa | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms – Single $200 | Double $225

Hotel Padma Ladakh | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Padma Ladakh
Garden Rooms – $10 Night Single & Double ($50 Trip)
Deluxe Rooms – $50 Night Single & Double ($250 Trip)
Super Deluxe Rooms – $80 Night Single & Double ($400 Trip)
Premium Rooms with Balcony – $100 Night Single & Double ($500 Trip)

Hotel Padma Ladakh | Extra Nights 
Garden Rooms – Single $45 | Double $55
Deluxe Rooms – Single $90 | Double $105
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $120 | Double $135
Premium Rooms – Single $145 | Double $160

Hotel Leh Plaza | Upgrade Charge 
Hotel Leh Plaza
Super Deluxe Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Premium Rooms – $65 Night Single & Double ($325 Trip)

Leh Plaza | Extra Nights
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $75 | Double $95
Premium Rooms – Single $100 | Double $120

Hotel Omasila | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Omasila
Heritage Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Suite Rooms – $90 Night Single & Double ($450 Trip)

Hotel Omasila | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms -– Single $65 | Double $75
Suite Rooms – Single $125 | Double $135

Hotel Shaynam
Single Supplement – No Charge
Extra Nights – Single $35, Double $40
+ Breakfast Included

Padma Guest House
Single Supplement – $75
Double Upgrade – No Charge
Extra Nights – Single $45, Double $55
Extra Nights New Wing – Single $65, Double $75
+ Breakfast Included

Hotel Omasila
Single Supplement – $175
Double Upgrade – $200
Suite Upgrade – $400
Extra Nights – Single $70, Double $80, Suite $120
+ Breakfast Included

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $300 for meals (while not on trip), drinks (on trip) and tips. We recommend $350 per person thrown into the tips pool for the crew.