Sky Kingdoms & Rivers Camping Trek | Ladakh & Zanskar River Valleys & Passes Traverse
(Rangdum to Dibling, Zangla, Shade, Central Zanskar & Surichen La Pass) 
Indian Himalaya Trek

Sky Kingdoms Camping Trek | Ladakh & Zanskar River Valleys & Passes Traverse (Dibling,  Zangla & Shade River Valleys to Central Zanskar & Surichen La Pass) – Indian Himalaya Trek
Day 1 – Meet in Leh 3500m   
Welcome to Leh, the capital of the predominantly Buddhist Union Territory of Ladakh, tucked away amidst the dramatic mountain of the Indian Himalaya and Indus valley, part of the great Trans Himalayan range. If arriving by air, you will feel the jump in altitude and it will take your body a few days to adjust. If arriving by road from Manali or Srinagar, you will have had some extra acclimatization en route but still need time to adjust to the 3500 meter altitude. Hydrate, stay away from alcohol for a few days, rest, and don’t over-exert yourself! Even walking up to the Leh Bazaar, not to mention climbing the steep steps Shanti Stupa or to Leh Fortress, will leave you breathless for the first few days. We recommend starting Diamox (Acetazolamide) the day before you fly up to Leh. The prophylactic dose is 125mg 2x per day if you don’t have any AMS symptoms, or 250mg 2x per day if you have symptoms such as a headache, vomiting, dizziness, disorientation, loss of coordination, irritability, edema (swelling of the extremities, in this case) not having an appetite or not sleeping at night.

We stay at the family-run Hotel Shaynam, a lovely, simple guest house with a lush garden courtyard, located just below the Main Bazaar in Leh. We offer options to stay at nearby Padma Guest House or Chospa, Omasila in Changspa north of Leh (close to Shanti Stupa) or to upgrade to one of our recommended ‘Great Stays’ (see tab) or another high-end boutique hotel.

Kim will take you on a short tour of old Leh and the Main Bazaar once you’ve settled into your room and had some coffee, tea, breakfast and water. Central Asian Leh is incredibly atmospheric, packed with trendy cafes and restaurants, Muslim tandoori bread ovens, timeless, winding alleyways, Central Asian antique shops, Kashmiri pashmina and carpet shops, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, historic Muslim mosques, Hindu and Sikh temples, fresh yogurt and paneer shops, colorful fruit and vegetable markets, a polo field (which doubles as an ice rink in the winter), ancient mani walls and white-washed chortens, and the fascinating dried fruit and nut market run by locals and flower-laden Dha Hanu villagers. Don’t miss the Central Asian Museum or the walking tour of the historic buildings of Old Leh run out of Lala Cafe. 

Those who want can meet for dinner in the evening, around 7:30. See Kim’s ‘Leh Cafe & Restaurant’ suggestions (Kim will pass on as a PDF. (B)

Days 2 & 3 – Leh | Walking, Cycling, Rafting & Sightseeing Tour Options     
We have two more full days in Leh to acclimatize, and do some walking, cycling, exploring, rafting, touring and/or sightseeing and enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar life of Singge Namgyal’s 17^th century capital of Ladakh. Leh was once an integral part of Western Tibet and a major trading post along the southern Silk Route between Central Asia, Tibet, China, Kashmir and India. There is lots to explore in this wonderful Central Asian town; the newly-restored ruins of the 17th century Leh Palace, the ancient 15th century Leh Fort (the highest point at 3680m) and the attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other historic Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the Sunni and Shi’ite Muslim mosques, narrow back alleys with steaming Muslim bread, tiny antique shops tucked away amidst the many ancient stupas and architectural remnants, the exotic Main Bazaar (c. 1840s) which once accommodated trade caravans, and even a polo field. Today, the Main Bazaar is a colorful street, the sidewalks crammed mornings and afternoons with Ladakhi women selling their fresh fruits and vegetables, and locals at the far end vending their dried nuts, apricots, apples and a colorful variety of vegetables.

Caravans of merchants from far flung destinations such as Yarkand, Tibet, Kashgar and North India passed through Leh during ancient trade missions, trading salt, wool, Pashmina, tea and semi-precious stones, lending to the city its exotic allure. Pilgrims flocked to the monasteries of Leh and the Indus valley, explorers of old stopped in Leh to re-stock and weather out the harsh Himalayan winter and soldiers en route to plunder and conquer desirous destinations passed through Leh, all leaving their mark on this unique capital.

Kim will take you for a walk up bustling Fort Road, lined with shops owned by Kashmiri, Tibetan and Kashmiri shop-keepers, to the crumbling but majestic Leh Fort and the red, Maitreiya Tsemo Gompa, perched high on a craggy and crumbling hilltop overlooking the bazaars of old Leh. You can stop at the 9-story Leh Palace, of a similar architectural design to the Tibetan Potala Palace, on the way down if you have the energy. Visit the museum, a worthwhile endeavor, as well as the nearby gompas/gonpas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) – Soma Gompa, Chamba Lakhang and Chensrig Lakhang. Sankar Gompa (17th – 18th c), reached through shady lanes to the east of Changspa, lies in the midst of Chubi’s groves of poplar and willow and is another wonderful morning or afternoon walk. The back route to Leh Fort starts in Chubi and passes through a desert-like Buddhist cremation ground before climbing to the fortress.

Wander along the willow-lines streets of Changspa to reach the many steps leading to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for a view over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. (B)

Touring Options Leh | Indus Valley Sightseeing Trips  
Endless options for wonderful ‘jeep safaris’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange a jeep and driver for a day or overnight trip to some of Leh and the historic Indus valley’s most scenic and culturally interesting spots.

Indus Valley Monastery & Fortress Tours  
Arrange (through Kim, our Tibetan jeep-driver Wang Chuk or the Shaynam Hotel) a ‘jeep safari’ through the fertile Indus Valley to visit a few of the living Tibetan Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the ‘cradle of civilization’ of much of the ancient world. Kim can help arrange jeeps and/or a guide for a day’s excursion.

Adventure Cycle Option Leh | Drive Up & Cycle Down Kardung La 5340m (39 km)   
One of the Himalaya’s great downhill rides, put your bicycle on a jeep up to the Kardung La along the Ladakh Range, the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra Valleys, and part way to the infamous Siachen Glacier. This epic road was built in 1976, and openned to public vehicles in 1988. Cycle down this switchbacking road, stopping on the way down to slowly cycle through some of Leh’s leafy northern suburbs. From Wikipedia “Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen at Hunder, in the area north of the pass. During World War II there was an attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.” Note that although all signs proclaim the Kardung La to be 5602 meters (or somewhere in this vicinity), it’s actually nearly 300 meters lower, so actually not at all the highest motorable pass in the world! Times of India Article | Kardung La

Leh Historic Cycle Tour | Shanti Stupa, Gonpa Village, Gonpa Monastery & Leh Fort (20-25 km)
Our favorite short Leh cycle tour starts at Shaynam Hotel, cycling along willow-lined lanes up to the Japanese-built Shanti Stupa for views over the green fields and white-washed Ladakhi houses of the villages surrounding Leh. We continue with a bit of off-road cycling to traditional Gompa village and its monastery at the top of the village, dropping and ascending to cycle along the spectacular, high road to Leh Fort, precariously perched, and the monastery complex above Leh Palace. Last a long descent back to Leh via the old city and the Muslim sections of Leh, an incredibly scenic bike trip. 

Indus Valley Eastern Monasteries Cycle (or Jeep) Tour | Spikuk, Stakna, Thiksey & Shey (45-65km)
A beautiful Ladakhi cycling day heading out on a bike tour of the eastern Indus Valley monasteries, beginning with 7½ km out of Leh straight down to Spituk Gompa. We will stop for a visit of this 1000 year old Gelugpa (once Nyingmapa) Tibetan Buddhist monastery, named the ‘exemplary monastery’ by the Great Translator Lotsewa Rinchen Zangpo and presently housing about 1000 monks. Back on the bikes, we cycling past a row of mani stones and chortens along a small willow and popular lined road through the small hamlet of Spituk and cross a small bridge spanning the Indus River. Taking a lovely, rural road with few vehicles, we cycle along the south of the Indus for about 10 km, reaching the equally small intersecting road coming from Tibetan Choglamsar.

We continue to cycle along this small country road, biking past traditional Buddhist villages, Islamic mosques, whitewashed chortens and fields of barley and peas. About 15 km into the ride the impressive sight of Stakna Gompa looms to our left, and we cycle towards the Indus, climbing for a kilometer to reach this impressively set monastery, founded in the 16th century by a Bhutanese lama, and every year Stakna Hosta a monastic festival that still draws a large contingent of monks from Bhutan!

Cruising back down the hill, we cross the Indus again and cycle another 6 km to Thikey Gompa, a bustling monastic institute and a 12-story Gelugpa complex with a renown Maitreya Buddha in the main assembly hall, an ancient library and incredible murals, artifacts and statues. The monastery was built in the 15th century following instructions of Je Tsongkhapa, and has one of the largest monastic schools in Ladakh.

From Thiksey (or Shey) we have options to cycle the last 15 kilometers uphill back to the Shaynam Hotel, or to throw the bikes onto the jeep and drive back with Ang Chuk. From Thiksey to Shey, we cycle west on a flat road along the main highway, paved but with few cars, for 5 km to reach ancient Shey Gompa, one of Ladakh’s old capitals, now in ruins except for the monastery. Cycling further west on the same road, we soon reach the back intersection to Leh, avoiding busy Choglamsar, and climb for about 10 km to the very busy main road. The last 3 or so km are on the main road, crossing through an equally busy intersection at the petrol pump, with the last steep 1 km on our small Old Leh Rd to Shaynam. A big cycling day for our third day at altitude in the Indian Himalaya!

LEH SIGHTSEEING & CYCLING NOTE | Because of the altitude of Leh, you may opt to ONLY do some jeep sightseeing through the Indus Valley, or to wander through Leh’s endlessly fascinating old town or relax and make sure your bike is tuned up. We will discuss options in Leh!

Spitok Gonpa & Stok Palace Cycle (or Jeep) Tour (35+km)
Another great option for cycling tours out of Leh begins with the 7 km downhill to Spitok Gompa, followed by a bucolic cycle across the other side of the Indus, and finally a steep 7 km cycle up to Stok Palace and leafy Stok village. The Ladakah royal family still resides part of the year in this palace, which houses a wonderful prayer room and a very interesting museum, worth a visit (and perhaps an overnight stay). The road continues 2 or 3 km past the palace, ending where the trek to Stok La begins at the top of the valley. Cruise back down the 9-10 km paved road, cross the Indus at Choglamsar, and cycle up the back road to reach Shaynam Hotel.

EAST | Shey, Thikse, Hemis, Chemde (Chemre), Thagthok (Sakti), Stakna + Matho Gompas. Stok Palace has wonderful heritage rooms and chalets for overnight stays, and Sakti has charming homestays. 

WEST | Spitok, Phyang, Basgo, Likir, Alchi, Rizdong + Lamayuru Gompas. Alchi is a wonderful village to spend the night, and ditto for Lamayuru, which also has several hotels near this picturesque monastery.

Indus or Zanskar White Water Rafting  
Exciting white-water rafting trips on the Indus (less challenging) or Zanskar Rivers, $40 – $45.

Day 4 – Drive Mulbekh 3504m | Cross Namika La 3820m
After breakfast, we board our private vehicles and head for the start of the trek at Mulbeck, a scenic drive through the historical, green Indus Valley. Leaving Leh we drive past ancient Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village and later pass the entrance road to Phyang Gompa and village to our right. We continue along a cliff-side road past the intersection of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers, the later the Zanskar villagers’ lifeline during the harsh winters although the road has now made the iconic Chadar (frozen river) trek obsolete. Look out the back windows for a spectacular panorama of the Ladakh range, which extends westward to meet the Karakorum range in the distance. About an hour later, we’ll spot Basgo Gompa and Fortress, a 500 year old World Heritage site, situated spectacularly on a spur above the Indus. Further along the Indus, also on the right, is the link road to Likir Gompa. To the left, we pass the turnoff to the 1000 year old Alchi Gompa, built in the Northern Indian style with wonderful frescos and murals inside the many prayer rooms. Just past Alchi on the right is the link road to Rizdong Gompa; soon afterwards we cross the Indus at Khaltse, and an hour later are rewarded with the awesome sight of Lamayuru Gompa perched magnificently on a hillside far above the Indus. Another hour will bring us to the intersection of the village of Henasku, from where a newly paved road leads through a dramatic, narrow gorge to Kanji. Kanji is a village of approximately 40 families (300 people) in the Kargil region of Ladakh, a wonderfully scenic whitewashed village with an old lha-khang (a small gompa either built by Rinzin Zangpo or 200 years later with wonderful murals inside) as well as a newer gompa. The lively village provides wonderful photographic opportunities in the evening light when the villagers are back from the fields and the kids out of school.

Continuing our drive along the Leh-Kargil-Srinagar Highway, we’ll meet many Muslim villagers as we pass Chortenchan, the larger Chiktan and several other small hamlets. Ascending very gradually, we the intersection of the highway at Kangral, from where we soon reach the Namika La. Descending to Wakha, we continue to historic Mulbekh, known for its massive, stone Maitreya Buddha (Future Buddha) which sits inside the monastery complex, the statue approximately 1400 years old. Nearby, the staff has set up camp on a grassy, willow-shaded spog. We’ll set you up in your Kamzang tents (everyone with their own yellow 3-person NorthFace style dome tent). Enjoy a cup of spiced Chai as we show you around our ‘Kamzang’ style dining, and you’ll have the rest of the afternoon (or early evening, as it’s a hot part of Ladakh) to explore the ancient Mulbekh Monastery complex. (4-5 hrs drive) (B, L, D)
Distance: 187km (Drive)

Mulbekh Monastery (Gompa) 3505m
“Mulbekh Monastery (Gompa) consists of the 9m tall Maitreya Buddha statue, the 1400 CE kharosti language edicts on the hill, and two 800 years old gompas, Serdung gompa of Drukpa lineage and Rgaldan-se gompa of Gelugpa. Rgaldan-se Gompa, established by Tungba Lzawa who is also known as Agu Tungba, was renovated in 2016. The Nyima Lhakhang temple was built around 800 years ago in the oldest section of the Mulbekh Monastery by the students of the great Tibetan scholar Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo, and houses Lhakhang, or sacred objects. The double gompas are dramatically situated at the very top of a crag 200m above the road. They were connected with the nearby palace of Raja Kalon of Mulbekh, rreached by a steep footpath winding up from behind.

Mulbekh Chamba
The Chamba is one of the three tallest rock cut relief statue of Buddha in Ladakh, which are collectively also known as the “Bamyan Buddhas of Ladakh”. The famous rock cut Chamba Statue in Mulbekh village, a striking enormous figure carved into the rock face on the right hand side of the road. It is a 9m tall Maitreya Buddha (Buddha who will be reborn, also called the “chamba” in local language) statue overlooking the old trade route and modern highway. It dates to the Kushan period dating to 1^st century BC to 6^th century CE, predating Tibetan Buddhism and now-destroyed 6^th century Buddhas of Bamiyan of Afghanistan.  Modern scholars date it as being from around the eighth century. Unfortunately, the lower part of the statue is partly obscured by a small temple built in 1975.

Nearby are some ancient rock inscriptions or edict written in Kharosthi script that issue an edict to the local people to discontinue sacrificing goats. The edit was written by King Bhum Ide (Tsongkapa), who ruled western Ladakh around 1400 CE. His younger brother, Dragspa, ruled the rest of Ladakh. Tsongkapa, called Bhum Ide, was a king and great reformer of Buddhism who lived in Ladakh from 1378 – 1441 CE, and set up monasteries near Leh at Spitok, Sangkar, Phyang and Trigtse. He removed the discrepancies from the current practices, and made the monks switch from Red Hat sect to Yellow Hat sect. One of his successors, King Trashi (1500 -1530 CE), also made it mandatory for Ladakhi families to send at least one or two children to become monk who did not have to be the eldest child.

Every year at least once or twice in each village the heart was torn out of a living goat in front of an altar. King Lde had the following inscription carved: “Oh Lama (Tsongkapa [1378-1441 CE]), take notice of this! The king of faith, Bum lde, having seen the fruits of works in the future life, gives orders to the men of Mulbe to abolish, above all, the living sacrifices, and greets the Lama. The living sacrifices are abolished.” The people of Mulbekh found this too onerous to follow, for beside King Lde’s edict, on the same rock, is an inscription saying the order was too hard to be executed. “For what would the local deity say, if the goat were withheld from him?” – Wikipedia

Day 5 – Drive Kargil, Suru Valley & Rangdum (Zanskar) 4056m | Pass Nun & Kun Peaks & Glacier | Visit Rangdum Gonpa (Monastery)  
An incredibly beautiful and exciting drive over the through the partly Muslim Suru Valley to read shady river valley to reach Rangdum Monastery (Gompa) and village, a chance to experience the diversity of the inhabitants of Ladakh and Zanskar en route. Leaving Mulbekh, we drive 35 km, following the Wakka Chu, to the road just before Kargil where we turn left, heading another 140 km through the Suru Valley towards Zanskar!

En route, we’ll pass many Muslim villages, children in scarves and uniforms leaving school for lunch, and then the end of the day, listening to the call to prayer from the many mosques. The largest village we pass through is Sankoo, a bustling road side bazaar chock-a-block with fruit and vegetable stalls and small shops, probably taking a break from the vehicle and stopping to have a wander through the bazaar. Pick up some delicious, yellow mangoes or a cold drink in one of the shops. As we continue to head south through the green Suru Valley, we pass Saliskote and Farona, and meet many school kids, mosques and have the opportunity to see life in the quiet, Muslim villages of the scenic Suru Valley.

Our drive becomes incredibly scenic as we continue south, with Himalayan peaks in the background as we pass more traditional villages, a patchwork of green fields of barley, small vegetable gardens and stone enclosures for the livestock. We pass the large village of Panikar, as we cycle through the mostly Muslim Suru Valley, always strikingly scenic, with lovely villages, people ambling along the roadways with their cows, sheep and goats. We drive right past the 7000m Himalayan ‘twin peaks of Nun (7135m) and Kun (7077m) as we drive, an impressive sight. The road makes a sweeping S turn to the south at Tongul, heads north again and just as it begins to head east we spot the fantastic Nun and Kun glaciers, tongues of snow extending almost to the road. We reach the Buddhist hamlet of Julidok and finally the 450-year-old Rangdum Gompa, set in the middle of a broad, Tibetan plateau with massive black, yellow and white chortens surrounding it.

The staff has set up our campsite somewhere near the historic monastery, and depending on the location, we’ll either visit the monastery en route to camp, or after we’re settled in. (B, L, D)

Rangdum Monastery 4031m
“Rangdum Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery belonging to the Gelugpa sect, situated on top of a small but steep sugarloaf at the head of the Suru Valley, in Ladakh. According to an inscription the monastery was built by Gelek Yashy Takpa during the reign of King Tsewang Namgyal II (1753-1782) of Ladakh. Although it is physically in the Suru Valley, it is culturally part of Zanskar.

Because the summer’s brevity sometimes interferes with crop harvests, to supplement the locally produced dairy products, both the village and the monastery depend on outside supplies brought up the largely barren Suru Valley, or over the 4400m Pensi La pass from Zanskar. The monastery was electrified using solar energy in June 2017 by Global Himalayan Expedition, along with the nearby village of Shakma Karpo. The first two female engineers of the region trained by Barefoot College and GHE executed the project.

The monastery is home to about 30 monks and almost as many donkeys. To ensure income for the nearby local communities, GHE has set up homestays in the villages, allowing travelers to visit the monastery while experiencing an authentic culture in the homestays.” – Wikipedia
Distance: 160km (Drive)

Day 6 – Trek Kanji La Tokpo Camp   
Leaving our campsite at Rangdum, we beini our epic Indian Himalaya trek, a west to east traverse of some of the remote, stunningly beautiful valleys of Ladakh & Zanskar, crossing high peaks and fording sparkling rivers as we trek, without a foreign trekker in sight.

We being our trek with a lovely river walk along the Kanji Nala River, with a vast variety of birds and wildlife, gentle willows lining the trail, and animal tracks such as snow leopard, wolf, fox and bear en route. We have several river crossings on our first trekking day, so have sandals or lightweight sneakers to wear for much of the day. We’ll have our packed lunch somewhere along the trail, on the beautiful riverside, and arrive at camp at Kanji La Tokpo camp, on the other side of the Kanji valley, in the early afternoon, with plenty of time to enjoy our idyllic surroundings and the balmy, summer temperatures. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.6km

Day 7 – Trek Puzdong La Base Camp 4550m  
After breakfast and French-press coffee, we cross the large river right as we leave our campsite, heading to the right at river level and switchbacking up quite high to intersect the main trail coming from Dibling. We continue to contour, staying high through grassy, rocky hillsides with marmots sticking their heads out of their holes, sunning themselves on rocks and whistling at our approach, the valley decorated with colorful mountain flowers. It’s a 1½ hour hike to the intersection of the route to Dibling (at our old campsite across the river), the ‘sumdo’ of two major river valleys.

We continue along a similar trail and reach a smaller valley where we descend, cross a small stream and then hike back up. The valley is rockier, more undulating, and we soon see our campsite across a wide valley in front of us. But before reaching it, though, we have to descend again to a surging river and try to cross on an old bridge, often washed away. Adventure is never far! One more climb and we’ve reached our lovely campsite atop a relatively flat plateau, a snowcapped valley to our right. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.2km

Day 8 – Trek Dibling 3850m | Cross Puzdong La 5020m  
Ahead on our wild Ladakh and Zanskar trek comes a sublime, diverse section of the Indian Himalaya. Our remote trekking route is a mix of sparkling river crossings, broad, green plateaus, seasonal herding settlements, dramatic canyons, far-flung, ethnically-Tibetan villages and ancient monasteries guarding these spectacular valleys.

We start the morning switch backing out of camp, hiking past fantastic, narrow canyons with sculpted walls. Trekking along a glacial riverbed, we jump the river for an hour and turn right at the cairn on the high cliff. We continue to climb on the right of the valley, with one last small descent to the stream, followed by an easy ascent on a switch backing trail to reach the Puzdong La, adorned with multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags. We’ll be treated to spectacular vistas from the top of the pass, and one year we saw a herd of ibex standing statuesquely on the nearby cliffs, a scene from the walls of a pre-historic cave dwelling …

After a rest at the scenic pass, we begin a steep descent on a scree-covered trail, switchbacking down into the wonderfully green valley below. Jumping the river at the bottom of the valley, we continue through the willow grove (Dibling Base Camp). We’ll stop for a scenic lunch here by the clear stream before continuing on to Dibling, another 2½ hours of hiking down valley. Soon after lunch we have a small climb to a ridge on the left side of the river. We drop back down to the valley bottom and pass a large seasonal herding settlement (doksa) of the Dibling inhabitants, now with several older Dibling-pa tending the sheep, goats and yaks in their basic houses. We can take a peek inside one of these, perhaps picking up some fresh yogurt from a villager. Inside these dark houses, with beams of sunlight shining through the chinks their only light, locals live as they have for centuries, making cheese and butter, weaving their sheep and goat wool and chanting their Buddhist prayers with their mani beads in their free time. We continue along the small, willow-lined stream, crossing it several times and stopping for spring-water at the source of the spring (which we’ll share with the yaks) as we head towards the intersection of the Oma Chu and the magical village of Dibling.

We pass through Dibling’s extensive, billowing fields of barley and peas, the villagers out in the fields tending to the crops, and look up the valley to Dibling Gompa and the ancient chortens silhouetted against the canyon wall. Dibling, with its white-washed houses, mani walls and prayer wheel, exists timelessly, with dried grass – fodder for the animals and insulation for the houses – lining the roof-tops in preparation for their harsh winters.

Our campsite ten minutes from the village is idyllic, one of our ‘best of’ in Ladakh and Zanskar, and the villagers, who see few Westerners, are very welcoming and genuine. We have the afternoon to wander through the village at harvest time, visit the ancient monastery (gompa) which guards the village from above, and wash in the clear river that runs by our campsite. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 15.8km

Day 9 – Dibling  
Enjoy our rest day, and take advantage of the day to explore this wonderful, remote village of 12 houses and approximately 50 inhabitants, happy to have visitors interested in their traditional lifestyle. In actuality, a day is not nearly enough to appreciate this remote outpost of traditional Tibetan Buddhist life. Have a leisurely morning at our grassy campsite, washing in the river, or outside on the grass in a camp chair with and good book. Spend the rest of the day exploring Dibling, having a cup of salt-butter tea with the villagers or wandering up the beautiful canyon beyond Dibling. The villagers will be busy harvesting their barley, peas and hay, and you’ll see them hoisting large bundles of hay to the rooftops to be stored for the sparse wintertime.

This village is cut off from the rest of Ladakh and Zanskar for six months of the year, so it’s essential that they be self-sufficient. At the top of the village is the 100-year-old Dibling Gompa, featuring murals painted with natural pigments. Wildlife and birds abound in this region, so bring your binoculars and sit quietly for a bit. The locals tell us that there are bears in the late summer raiding the fields. The horsemen often use our free days to shoe the horses, a wild and photogenic event. (B, L, D)

Day 10 – Trek Lingshed Sumdo 3680m  
Another river crossing day today as we trek up the river valley towards Zanskar, following (and crossing) the sparkling willow-lined, Oma Chu river for the entire day. We’ll share the remote trail with yaks, generally higher up in the valley grazing, descending to drink and cool down in the river. We’ll hope to discover bear tracks and scat along our trail as we’ve done in years past. It’s a lovely day, classic river-side trekking with time to stop and enjoy the visas on rounded beach rocks.

Leaving camp, we’ll stay on the newly-built trail (for the village kids to get to school safely at Lingshed) for the first half hour of the morning, staying on the left of the river. We’ll then have to cross the river 5-7 times in the next half hour or so, often trekking upstream against the current, a nice way to spend a hot Ladakh day! . Approximately two hours after leaving camp we’ll climb to a small cairn on a ridge at the sumdo (river junction) leading to the Marpo La. As we continue, staying above the river, there is a bit of exposed trail. Just after this, back along the river, we’ll reach a green doksa and see many yaks grazing on the nearby hillsides. One last river crossing and we reach our scenic campsite at Lingshed Sumdo, at the junction of the Barmi La route to Lingshed and the river and canyon route directly to Zanskar, another wonderful outdoor bathing spot. (6 hrs) (B, L, D)

TREK NOTE | We may head up the valley a bit further and camp at another lovely campsite towards tomorrow’s pass.

Day 11 – Lingshed Gongma 4010m | Cross Barmi La 4680m  
We have a beautiful hike climbing the narrow, colorful valley towards the pass to look forward to this morning, as we enjoy coffee and breakfast outdoors surrounded by the wonderful scenery.

We spend the morning hiking gently up the valley, heading towards the pass, and finally crest the Barmi La. After a rest on the pass, we contour down the hillsides, hues of reds and greens, and are treated to views over to Lingshed village and Lingshed Monastery (Gompa), backed by dramatic craggy rocks. We traverse and descend steeply down to our scenic campsite in a sheltered, sparkling valley below the Hanama La. There are opportunities to hike up this narrowing valley in the afternoon, and possible blue sheep sightings, or just relax in this lovely spot and enjoy the surroundings. (5 hrs) (B, L, D)

Lingshed Gompa
“Lingshed Monastery (or Gompa) is a Gelugpa Buddhist monastery founded in the 1440s by Changsems Sherabs Zangpo, disciple of Je Tsongkhapa, on a monastic site previously founded by the Translator Rinchen Zangpo. The monastery has belonged to the religious estate of Ngari Rinpoche since 1779. The Jangchub Tensung Dorje Center was founded in Lingshed by Kyabje Dagom Rinpoche in 1994. Lingshed Village has been inhabited for nearly a thousand years, originally reputed to be a local hunting area, which is the source of its name. The village has been the site of several Buddhist monasteries: the remnants of a cave monastery and two walls dedicated to the translator Rinchen Zangpo (958–1055). Local tradition in the region also speaks of Kadampa and Drugpa Kagyu monasteries in the valley.

Lingshed Monastery (or Kumbum, meaning ‘A Hundred Thousand Images’) was founded as a Geluk School Monastery in the 1440s by Changsems Sherabs Zangpo, disciple of the noted Tibetan preceptor Je Tsongkhapa. Local tradition records how Sherabs Zangpo, having founded Karsha and Phugtal Monasteries to the south, travelled over Hanuma-La Pass to the south of Lingshed, from where he saw an ‘auspicious shining light’ shining on a rock on the hillside. He built a chorten around that rock, and this became the basis of Kumbum’s central shrine, Tashi ‘Od Bar (‘Auspicious Shining Light’ shrine).

In 1779, the Ladakhi king Tsewang Namgyal donated the lands of Lingshed and its surrounding villages (along with the Zanskari monasteries and villages of Karsha, Mune, Phuktal and Rangdum) to Lobsang Gelek Yeshe Dragpa, the 3rd incarnate of the Ngari Rinpoche lineage. In 1783, Ngari Rinpoche founded Rangdum Monastery on the boundary of the Karsha Valley as his ecclesiastical seat, to which Lingshed is subordinate. Lingshed Monastery was electrified by Global Himalayan Expedition in August 2016 through setting up of solar microgrids.

The monastery houses about 60 monks and is on the route between Zanskar and Lamayuru. It serves the surrounding villages of Lingshed, Skyumpata, Yulchung, Nyeraks, Dibling and Gongma. The monastery consists of six principal shrines, kitchens, store rooms and – on its uppermost floor – an apartment for Ngari Rinpoche or other visiting high lamas. Below the central temple complex, monastic quarters (shak) fan out in long lines. Lingshed monastery also maintains outlying shrines in each of the villages it serves.It is marked on an early survey map as ‘Linshot’ and is four marches south of Khalatse. There were two sons of La-chen-Bha-gan (c. 1470-1500 CE), the third king of the Second West Tibetan Dynasty. The younger son had the eyes of his elder brother, Lha-chen-Lha-dbaṅ-rnam-rgyal (c. 1500-1532), put out and then he took the throne. “Still, for the continuance of the race, he stationed him, together with his wife at Liṅ-sñed” where his wife bore three sons.” – Wikipedia
Distance: 12.8km

Day 12 – Trek Zingchan 3410m | Cross Hanuma La 4710m  
A pass day as we switchback steeply right out of camp for about 2 to 2/1/2 hours to the top of the Hanuma La, a spectacular narrow pass with even more expansive views over to Lingshed and further into northern Ladakh. The trail down isn’t steep, a lovely walk through a mica lined valley past a few small doksas and further on past the southern high camp. We’ll jump the river a few times as the valley narrows and at the high camp veer to the right along a somewhat precipitous trail which leads up to a narrow crest. Fantastic views as we descend steeply from here, switchbacking through a greener and wider valley back down to the Oma Chu at the point where it intersects our smaller stream.

We’ll set up camp in an amphitheater surrounded by peaks, passes and valleys, in the spot where we often lunch if heading the opposite way. There is a small tea house next to the campsite, run from an old man from Hanumil; he told us of the trail, newly re-built, through the canyon to Lingshed Sumdo. The locals all use this trail now to avoid the long, high route over the 4700 meter Hanuma La but horses have a difficult time on the cliff-side trails. Have a swim in the river right next to camp, heaven after a long trekking day! (7 hrs) (B, L, D)

Day 13 – Trek Hanamur & Pidmo River Camp (3430m) | Cross Parfi La 3900m  
Today we enter fabled Zanskar, looking up the steep switchbacks to the Parfi La pass far above our campsite. The switchbacks are well graded, and it will only take us 1 ½ hours to hike to the crest of the Parfi La. The views from the top are fantastic, with the Zanskar River gorge below us and the craggy, dun-colored Zanskar range spreading out in all directions. The descent is equally scenic as we drop steeply to high, contouring ridges, sometimes on slightly exposed trails. It should take us about two hours to reach the plateau above the river where we’ll stop for a break on some flat rocks. Half an hour more of easy hiking down to and along the river, and we’ll have lunch after crossing a (usually) small, intersecting stream, cooling down with our feet in the water. From here it’s less than an hour of hiking along the Zanskar River, with one last climb, to the two-house hamlet of Hanamur (3420m), where cold drinks are available at the local shop, and parachute tents set up to cool down on a hot day.

We might have the opportunity to watch the threshing of the summer’s harvest in Hanamur, an interesting window into a dying way of life, and a good photographic opportunity. Leaving Hanumil and crossing a small bridge just past the two houses, we continue along the banks of the Zanskar River along a trail lined with seabuckthorne bushes and Zanskar roses to the next village, Pidmo, a larger village which sees the winter trekkers who follow the Chaddar Route along the frozen Zanskar River. Pidmo is an interesting, traditional village on the Chadar route, surrounded by extensive barley fields, with a prayer wheel in the center of town. We camp just past Pidmo, in a green campsite amongst seabuckthorne bushes, a lovely riverside campsite which sometimes gets windy in the late afternoons! Enjoy the wonderful sunsets; welcome to Zanskar, the land of white copper! (6 – 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 17.5km

Day 14 – Trek Zangla Doksa River Camp 3430m Padum Resupply & Zanskar Valley Exploration Day  
A short trekking day today, with the remainder of the day to embark on a jeep tour of the Central Zanskar monasteries, or to explore the historic once Kingdom of Zangla. Kim, Lhakpa and the team will drive to Padum to resupply once we reach camp.

We begin the morning by crossing the Zanskar River via the new Pidmo bridge to reach the plateau on the eastern side of the Zanskar River, staying high until we reach the large, walled Honya Doksa, the seasonal grazing settlement of the Zangla-pa (pa means people in Tibetan and Ladakhi), with several willow trees adding shade and green to the stone-hut grazing settlement.

We have an hour of hiking along the green riverside (or take the paved road above, leading to Zangla) to our lovely riverside campsite, Zangla Doksa River Camp. Doksa means seasonal nomadic settlement in Ladakhi and Tibetan, and the locals from Honya Doksa will pass by in the evenings with their large herds of sheep, goats and donkeys, making for some classic photos of traditional life in Zanskar. The iconic Zangla Fort glows in the afternoon light as we approach, becoming even more dramatic as the sun sinks lower in the skies, and the craggy cliffs in the canyons behind (our route!) are accentuated.

The grass is green and the stream warm, so go for a wash and settle in for the afternoon, enjoy a hike up to explore atmospheric Zangla and Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery), or hire a jeep (Kim & Lhakpa can assist) to tour the iconic Central Zanskar monasteries. Sunsets and sunrises are amazing from camp, enjoy this magical setting! (2 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.4km

Padum Resupply & Zanskar Valley Exploration Day    
Essentially, a rest and exploration day in central Zanskar as we only have a few hours of hiking this morning! Options are to stay camp and relax in this sublime setting, to hike up and explore the wonderful and historic Zanskari village of Zangla, or to get a group together for an incredibly interesting and scenic central Zanskar monastery jeep safari, highly recommended. Kim and Lhakpa will head to Padum to resupply for the second half of the trek.

Zangla Village & Fort Tour  
Climbing gradually out of our campsite, hike along the plateau past a weathered rock carved with thousand-year old Mon chortens, soon reaching Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village. Follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where our Kamzang Journeys group had tea one summer with the royal residents, including the Queen Mother. The King of Zangla, Gyalthes Nima Norboo Namgial Ldey, of the Sonsten Gampo lineage, is the same age as the Dalai Lama (early 80s). Songsten Gampo was the great 7th century Tibetan king who unified much of Tibet, encouraged the spread of Tibetan Buddhism and was the patron of the creation of the Tibetan script. He had two wives, one Chinese and the other Nepali. The king’s family is also of the Nyimagon lineage, a Tibetan king from the 11th century whose youngest of three sons, Ldey Tsugon, ruled Zanskar, Lahoul and Spiti. The other two sons ruled areas of western Tibet (Guge, Purang) near Mount Kailash.

We sometimes meet the king in the village, and rode into and back from Padum with him in 2015. The King’s house now has a new horse stable in frong, and the new house right next to the somewhat dilapidated royal residence is the house of the village carpenter.

The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress, presently being restored by an organization called ‘Cosmos Room’. The ruins of the 900 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of lookout towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite as safe as it was previously. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. The fort is guarded over by a giant, new stupa built in 2009, while more ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the village and eventually to camp.

Zangla Valley Monastery Jeep Tour | Sani, Karsha & Pipiting Gompas  
Get a group together to hire a jeep to visit the fascinating, old gompas of Zanskar from Padum (3585m). You will have time to visit the 1000 year old Sani Gompa on the Stod River, the route out to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. Sani is a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renown for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127 CE. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.

From Wikipedia: “Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue.  Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell. The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi. A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at ‘Starkhugnza’ in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.”

From Sani, take the back roads to the Gelugpa Karsha Gompa, the largest, most important, and possibly the most scenic monastery in Zanskar, built high up into the cliffs above the village of Karsha. The monastery is said to be founded by Guru Rimpoche, or Padmasambhava, and is under the control of the Ngari Rimpoche. A fire recently burned down the kitchen, but a new, larger kitchen was rebuilt. The inside of the main assembly hall is purely Tibetan Buddhist, with ancient murals on the walls, priceless statues and the usual Buddhist offerings.

To return, you will pass back through Padum where you can do some email or pick up supplies at the many shops. Padum is a very Central Asian feeling village, a transit point for goods coming and going from Leh to Kargil, with a large Muslim population. There are some thousand year old pre-Tibetan Buddhist Buddha carvings just below Padum, the Gyalba Rigsinga, worth a look if you’re stopping in town. And pick up a plate of momos on the main drag! En route back to Stongde, make a quick stop at Pipiting Gompa on a small hill just past Padum.

Sani Gompa 3670m
The 1000-year-old Sani Gompa sits just off the Stod River, along the route to Rangdum and the Suru Valley. Sani is a Drukpa Kargyu gompa with several resident nuns living in the monastery. The monastery is renowned for its unique Kanika Chorten, presumed to date back to the time of the famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka (Kanika is the English transliteration of the emperor’s name) who lived around 127 CE. Kanishka is well known in Buddhist literature as the promoter of Buddhism in this region, sponsoring a significant Buddhist conference in Kashmir.

“Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, is said to have dwelt for five years in the small ‘Gamshot Lhakang’ squeezed between the main building and the corridor, to the right of the Kanika chorten. Inside may be seen a figure of Guru Rinpoche and historical scenes in half relief on both sides of the statue. Apparently, one can just see the white opening to a cave in a cliff across the river from the monastery where Padmasambhava is also said to have meditated for several years and it is still used as a meditation cell. The monastery is also claimed to be connected with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa (956-1041 CE). There is now small room next to the Kanika chorten where it is thought that Naropa meditated in which there is a veiled bronze statue of the yogi. A group of Kargyu nuns established a small retreat centre at ‘Starkhugnza’ in the 1990s. It is a site above Sani which was founded by Ngawang Tsering (1657-1732), a famous Zanskar meditator. All of the nunneries in Zanskar are under the spiritual authority of the monks and few have much in the way of endowments.” – Wikipedia

Stongde Gompa Tour  
Hike steeply up the traverse (or drive up the road) a half hour’s climb to the Stongde Gompa (3815m). Stongde Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, was built in 1052 by Naropa’s disciple, the famous translator Lama Marpa, and taken over by the Gelugpa in the 15th century, with Je Tsongkhapa as its present head. Stongde is the second largest monastery in Zanskar, with approximately 60 monks and many students, renown for its Gustor Festival during the summer.

After the climb to the gompa, climb to the monastery roof for wonderful views of the patchwork of Stongde village and the Zanskar valley. It’s one of the most lively and colorful monasteries, perched precariously up on a craggy rock ledge, and surrounded by lovely birch woods. We has many friends there, including Geshe Lobsang who lectures and travels around the world, and founded the monastic school. Geshe Stenzin and his brother, are also good friends; they might invite us for tea and give us a tour of the gompa, including its room of treasures in back of the oldest ‘lhakhang’, or prayer hall. We might be able to catch the evening puja in the butter-lamp lit prayer room, a surreal experience with resonating, deep chanting, cymbals, Tibetan drums, a step back hundreds of years …

Mons
“Mons of the Khesa race were dominant in the past in the region of western Himalayas. The Mons have been Buddhist in the region from the time of the Kushan dynasty, established by Emperor Kanishka. Mons, the dominant population in the Zanskar valley, and are said to belong to an Aryan race linked to Kaniskha’s period as their features do not match those of the local tribes or the Mongolians. Mons are credited with building 30 monasteries, chortens and temples, including Karsha Monastery in the main Zanskar valley; some of the other monasteries they built are: Teta, Muni, Phuktal, Pune, Bardol, Togrimo, Padum, Pipting, Tondhe, Zangla, Linshot and Sumda. Gelugpa monastery is another important monastery in Khursha village, which has an excellent display of mural arts.” – Wikipedia 

Day 15 – Trek Tzazar Doksa (Zangla Sumdo) Camp 3825m  
We start our wild, 5-day Himalayan trekking route (many of them sandal and trekking pole days, including today) through the colorful gorges and canyons from Zanskar and Zangla to the remote Shun Shade valley, beginning with a section of the Jumlam, or ‘middle route’. The Jumlam is an old Silk Route trail leading into Zanskar, a Ladakh Zanskar trek used when the rivers were low enough to trek along the riverbeds.

Leaving our Zangla campsite, we trek 45-minutes up to the Zangla Ani Gompa (nunnery), continue along the road past once-impressive King of Zangla’s house (with an enclosed stable in front) and then ascend for another half hour to the impressive Zangla Fort, home to the kings of Zangla of yore. The present King of Zangla is the same age as, and a friend of, HH the Dalai Lama; we gave him a ride home several years ago from Padum. Just afterwards we pass the protector deity’s small lhakhang (god’s house) on the right of the trail followed by ancient lookout towers on both sides of the valley, now crumbling and in ruins, attesting to the importance of the Jumlam trade route centuries ago.

We walk along the irrigation ditch for a bit while descending and soon reach the green doksa of the Zangla people. From here we head left, or east, along the Zumlung Chu (river), crossing many times in the willow-shaded valley full of ancient beds of fossilized oysters. It should take us about five hours of hilly walking, with many river crossings, to reach our campsite, just past the turnoff (to the right) leading to the main Jumlam route and the Charchar La. Our camp at Tzazar Doksa is lovely and warm, surrounded by willows, but loses the sun early. After a wash in the stream right in front of us, take a 5 minute walk through seabuckthorne bushes to the doksa, and possibly a walk to the hill above camp for later afternoon sun. There are blue sheep and ibex in this valley, as well as (potentially) bears. (6 hrs, EDIT km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.2km

Day 16 – Trek Pandang La High Camp 4450m  
We follow the shimmering Zumlung Chu on today’s Zanskar trek, with plenty of ‘Himalayan flat’ throughout the day. The first two hours of hiking are easy, crossing the river many times in a magical valley which opens up as we head north. Note the amazing canyon on our left and the dramatic, soaring canyons in general as we hike today. The valley is full of ‘dinosaur plants’, willows and oyster beds, a rocky, narrow valley of large scree trails. At the second sumdo, or river junction, at 3950 meters the trail narrows and we trek through a batch of seabuckthorne bushes, probably without the tart, orange berries just yet. Our trail undulates as we negotiate the tricky valley floor, often climbing and descending to avoid sheer rocks dropping to the river or thick groves of underbrush. This route is known by villagers from Tsazar just south of Zangla, who use the valley as their summer pastures. Villagers from Shade also sometimes know this remote region.

Finally, we make a sharp right, cross the stream and ascend steeply for a bit on a trail of loose scree and rocks, which eventually flattens out. Flowers and oasis of trees appear in the stark landscape, softening it, and our trail becomes more gradual. If we turned directly left through a grove of willows to our right we would discover our hidden Bazza Camp (4250m), a green pasture by a clear stream named after our friend Bazza who celebrated his birthday here in during our exploratory trek in this region.

From here we have one last steep ascent through green pastures, passing several doksas, staying on the steep ravine which drops down below us to our right. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, so keep your eyes open as you walk through the green plateaus ahead. After about 45 minutes we reach our green Pangang La High Camp, with a very cold spring and incredible views including tomorrow’s Pandang La. We have encountered a herd of semi-wild and Zanskari horses at this dramatic high camp, possessive of their grazing area and quite aggressive towards our horses. (5 hrs, EDIT km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.21km

Day 17 – Trek Yangdam Chen 4430m | Cross Pandang La 5175m  
Another pass day today, starting with yet another steep ascent through meadows colored with pink and red bistort, the views increasingly spectacular as we look back to the craggy peaks of Zanskar behind us. We’ll trek for about 2 ½ hours to crest the Pandang La, where we’ll stop and admire the panorama of Himalayan peaks from this remote pass. The trail to our right at the pass as we look ahead towards Shade leads, eventually, to Tsazar. A route to explore another year …

The descent begins with an easy 20 minute of contouring to the left, followed by a steeper descent down into the Niri Chu valley. We’ll stop for lunch at the first green plateau about 45 minutes below the pass, or possibly at camp. From here, it’s a half an hour to the green doksa near the river where the staff have set up a beautiful camp for the night. There is lots to explore if you have the energy for some hiking above camp, across the river. Blue sheep roam the hillsides, and there is also lots of bird life including hoopoes along the riverside amongst the collection of doksas. (5 hrs, km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.05km

Day 18 – Trek Mitsik Doksa 4285m | Cross Liyu La 4375m & Lar La 4690m  
An adventurous and beautiful river day, with an incredible array of wildlife watching from the craggy hillsides judging from the prints we encounter. Bear, wolf, snow leopard, blue sheep, red fox are amongst the tracks that we generally encounter, an exciting route! Leaving camp, we cross our river almost immediately and continue along the right banks of the river for half an hour on a relatively flat trail. At the sumdo of this river and the Niri Chu we pass by a large river valley to the left that leads to the nomadic region of Kharnak. We have to cross Niri Chu, and then continue to cross and re-cross this river throughout the morning, staying mostly at river level. Wear sandals or running shoes and have your trekking poles with you! (It’s possible to take a high trail on the right of the Niri Chu to avoid crossing it in the morning, but this trail is often exposed or washed away). The valley is a dramatic combination of soaring cliff-walls, canyons and green river valleys, lovely.

After about three hours of river hiking we cross the small, intersecting stream coming from our left and climb for a short time to a grassy plateau, the Niri Chun camp from our exploratory trek, our river crossings finished. We soon reach Shade Pullu, another doksa, and then have 45 min – 1 hour of slightly exposed, high trails to reach the ridge-top Liyu La, a dramatic vantage point from where we look out to our next pass, the Lar La. 15 minutes of descent brings us to the Niri Doksa valley, from where we begin to climb again up this steep grazing ridge; we will stop for lunch about half way up the steep, switch-backing trail. The pass generally takes about 1 ½ hours to climb, the craggy rock outcropping at the top a welcome sight! The views from this pass are some of the most dramatic in the valley, worth a half hour of gazing back over the remote river valleys that we trekked through, and onwards towards Shade.

Our descent is another steep one as the valley drops right down to a green doksa called Mitsik Doksa, where the staff have set up camp at yet another mindboggling beautiful camp right on the pebbly riverside. Mitsik Doksa is a wide flood plain along the river, absolutely wonderful, sometimes visited by locals from Shade on their way to or from a doksa. Take the afternoon to do some laundry and explore down the river valley towards Niri Chu, which snakes through deep canyons below us. We’re right below tomorrow’s pass, the Rotang La, so we will arrive at Shade early enough to explore this wonderful remote village. (8 hrs, km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.7km

Day 19 – Trek Shade 4270m | Cross Rotang La 4890m  
It’s about a three hours climb to the 4890 meter Rotang La from camp, hiking somewhat steeply past Rotang Doksa (4470m) where we might find some fresh sheep-milk yogurt if the villagers have camped here. From the doksa the trail switchbacks a bit more gradually to the Rotang La. The descending valley on the Shade side is colorful in shades of yellows, oranges and reds, and it’s a lovely and easy descent of about an hour to Shade, with one small ridge between. We’ve seen snow leopard prints in this valley as well, as you would expect near a remote village of herders. Just before the village we pass an extensive collection of white-washed chortens, signs of Shade’s importance along the ancient salt trade routes …

Our campsite is just before Shade, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for washing, and for sunrise and sunset photos of Shade village and its patchwork of fields. The villagers and village kids will be by in the afternoon, and at sunset the large flocks of sheep and goats are herded into the closed paddocks for milking, the herders carrying essential loads of dried grass on their backs.

Shade, not often visited by Westerners, is one of the most interesting villages we’ll encounter on our trek, so we will head out to explore after lunch. The village is a cluster of 14 traditional, closely packed Zanskari mud-brick houses, with corrals for the goats and sheep, grass drying on the rooftops, small vegetable gardens and an idyllic atmosphere. There are approximately 95 inhabitants, of whom three of the men are in the Indian Army, bringing a bit of extra wealth to the village. There are also five lamas/monks and one ‘chomo’, or nun, residing in the village, and our friend the amchi (also the headman), with his wife and five children, impressive for a remote village of this size. We’ll visit some of the local houses for a glass of tea, chang (Tibetan barley beer), yogurt from the nearby doksa or some churpi (dried cheese).

Shade is surrounded by extensive fields of barley (ne), potatoes (aloo), sag (shema) and snap peas and they also have greenhouses in which they grow radish (labo), cilantro, cabbage, cauliflower and carrots. There is a small school here which is desperately in need of supplies, so this is a good place to off-load school supplies. Some of the locals stay up in the doksas north of our campsite, sometimes returning every few days and other times staying longer. The villagers rotate grazing their flocks and protecting them from the many wolves and snow leopards in the area! Local words for some of the wildlife we might encounter: snow leopard (shen), ibex (hin), blue sheep (nabo) and wolf (shanku). (4½ hrs, km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.03km

Day 20 – Trek Yatah 3995m  
Another amazing trekking day ahead as we head to Yatah, our next remote campsite half way to Phuktal Gompa in Central Zanskar. Leaving the Shangri-La of Shade via a trail directly below the village, we pass through the entrance chorten and descend past the harvesting villagers for about 45 minutes to where the river plummets through a narrow gorge and the canyon closes in on us. At the intersection of the Niri Chu (river) we reach the village ‘lhatoo’ (4100 m), a kata-covered monument dedicated to Shade’s protector deity called Cho Gyumjang, a female goddess. Her peak is just to the left if you’re looking up the narrow canyon towards Shade, and locals invite the monks from Phuktal Gompa to have a yearly puja for her (which we’ve been lucky to witness).

Turning left at the lhatoo, with the Niri Chu again far below us, we have about ten minutes of slightly exposed trail as we head towards Trantrog Gompa (4020m). Soon the valley opens, the turquoise river takes wide S turns and our canyons become dramatic hoodoos over the riverbed. We can see the tiny hamlet of Trantog ahead, with its small gompa said to be either 30-40 or 750 years old. Perhaps there was an ancient meditation cave at the site of this gompa, which the caretaker told us was built by a lama from Phuktal. The interesting woman who holds the key might be around to show us the village treasures. There are apparently only three people living in the village and about as many houses. Still, it’s certainly a scenic spot built up on a craggy hill overlooking this idyllic valley.

From Trantog we descend to the willow-lined Niri Chu which we cross (bring your sandals), afterwards climbing on an exposed trail to a contouring trail high above the valley. Soon we reach ‘Trantog Sumdo’ (3960m) leading to the Shun Shade valley. We contour on a wide trail above the Nialo Kontse Chu, which the river has become after the last intersection, for another 1 1/2 hours. We pass a new and an old bridge across the river, the old one an original rope bridge. Three ridges later we’ve reached Tsarap Sumdo (3920m), after which the trail becomes a bit more exposed. One steep drop, slightly exposed, a similar climb back up to the trail and it’s half an hour to camp at the high grazing pastures of Yatah. Yatah is about 150 meters above the trail to the right, an unexpected site after our narrow, steep-sided canyon, and it will take another half an hour to reach it. (6 hrs, km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 14km

Day 21 – Trek Phuktal Gompa & Purne 3830m | Cross Phuktal La 4005m  
Another wonderful Zanskari trekking day, starting with a climb of 100 meters above camp to drop back down to the main trail. From the flags at the top of the ridge, we descend back down to meet the main trail at the point where a new, cantilevered bridge is being built. On the other side of this small gully we contour on a good trail high above the Tsarap Chu and past several small doksa. It’s a hot trail as the high altitude sun reflects off the mica-filled sandy hills around us, so dress accordingly. There is a long, dusty and hot climb to reach the Phuktal La, from where we’re treated to a tremendous view over the spectacular Phuktal Gompa and the green, checkered valley. We’ll stop for lunch here, at the massive, white-washed chorten, followed by a very short descent to the iconic Buddhist monastery.

Phuktal Gompa (3900m), which translates as ‘the cave of leisure or liberation’, is spectacularly built into a cliff-side, one of the most colorful gompas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya (15th century, although information inside the monastery claims that it’s nearly 1000 years old). Phuktal Gompa has a school attached, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The gompa itself is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsored for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali (and our first Kamzang Kid), stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being ‘evicted’ for bad behavior. Alexander Csoma de Kőrös also spent time translating in this monastery (see below).

Phuktal Gonpa
Phuktal Gonpa, which translates as ‘the cave of leisure or liberation’, is spectacularly built into a cliff-side, one of the most colorful gonpas in Zanskar as well as one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya (15th century, although information inside the monastery claims that it’s nearly 1000 years old). Phuktal Gompa has a school attached, and the young, lively monks are always keen to practice their English or to have a photo taken. The gompa itself is a real Central Asian treasure with ancient prayer rooms, an old library, a fountain with magical waters in the original cave, a Tibetan medicine center, a wonderful kitchen and many old friends. Singge, the young Zanskari boy that we sponsored for school at the Himalayan Buddhist School in Manali (and our first Kamzang Kid), stayed a few years at this Phuktal before being ‘evicted’ for bad behavior. Alexander Csoma de Kőrös also spent time translating in this monastery (see below).

“Phuktal Monastery is built around a natural cave, which is believed to have been visited by numerous sages, scholars, translators, and monks around 2250 years ago. The remote location of the monastery was ideal for monks looking for peace and solitude to meditate. The present Phuktal Gompa, of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, was established in the early 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo, a disciple of Je Tsongkhapa. Tsongkhapa was the founder of Gelug, which is one of the newest schools of Tibetan Buddhism. Believed to be one of the earliest residents of the cave are the 16 Arhats, or the legendary followers of Buddha. The images of these 16 Arhats appear on the cave walls.

The great scholars and translators Padmasambhava and Phakspa Nestan Dusdan are believed to have lived in the cave, and so is the great leader and translator Lama Marpa Lotsawa. In the 12th century, the Tibetan translator Zanskar Lotsawa Phagpa Sherab also lived and worked from Phuktal. The eminent scholars and brothers Dangsong, Pun, and Sum, who were believed to have the supernatural power of flight gave teachings on Dharma at Phuktal. When Jangsem Sherap Zangpo arrived at Phuktal, the three brothers bequeathed the holy site to him and departed. According to legend, the spiritually gifted Zangpo caused a spring to appear and run from the cave, a tree to grow on top of the cave and for the cave itself to grow larger in size. Then, under his guidance, the present structure of the monastery was built around the cave. It is built in the cliffside, like a honeycomb. The cliff is part of a lateral gorge of a major tributary of the Lungnak River (Lingti-Tsarap River). The monastery today houses a main temple, prayer rooms, a library with rare sacred texts, apartments and living quarters, teaching facilities, a kitchen, and of course, the original cave and the sacred spring, which is protected. It is home to about 70 monks. There is a stone tablet which serves as a reminder of the stay of Alexander Csoma de Kőrös at Phuktal, while he worked on the first English-Tibetan dictionary between 1826 and 1827, when he explored Ladakh.” – Wikipedia

After exploring the gompa and meeting the many young novice monks, we descend to the Tsarap Chu, crossing this massive river on a long, wooden bridge, from where we have almost two hours of undulating trail to camp. (After the floods of several years ago we’ve had to cross on a locally-constructed vine bridge, and that year our horses had to swim the huge, fast-flowing river, quite exciting!). It’s a beautiful hike along the left banks of Tsarap Chu on a precipitous but recently improved and undulating canyon trail, with road building in progress closer to Purne.

Purne, on the main Zanskar trail, is at confluence of the Tsarap Chu and the Kargiak Chu, and there are sure to be other trekkers staying at this hub. Camp is warm, a beautiful spot to relax, so take advantage of the free time to do some laundry and have a cold beer from the local shop-teahouse, run by a some lovely sisters. Their aunt Dolma is the local amchi, also a good friend of ours from years ago. Both our campsite and lodge, and Dolma’s, have bucket showers on offer. (7 hrs, km) (B, L, D)
Distance: 16.8km

Day 22 – Drive Kargiak & Sarchu 4200m | Cross Shingo La 4991m  
Today is an epic driving day, a beautiful day fo driving through the traditional villages of lower Zanskar, crossing the nearly 5000 meter, glaciated Shingo La pass, and then continuing back up to Sarchu on the Leh-Manali highway. We have the option of hiking the first section (see description) or driving directly on the opposite side of the Kargiak Chu (river).

SHORT HIKING OPTION | Leaving our camp at Purne, we descend back down to the small bridge and then hike back up to the main Zanskar trail following the Kargiak Chu. We pass the small village of Yal, where fodder and kindling dry on the rooftops, in half an hour, and then continue on our high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu for another hour until we reach the labyrinthine village of Testa, an oasis of green fields and traditional Zanskari houses. Next comes the colorful Kuru with its many threshing circles and white-washed mani walls, from where we’ll start the drive past past Kuru’s long chain of mani walls.

DRIVE | We cross the Kargiak Chu on a large bridge, continuing to Tangze, with its many-hued patchwork of fields. We’ll stop at the small the small teahouse, owned by our friend Sonam Dorje and his daughter. Above us to the right of the trail is Tangze Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, backed by jagged, dun-colored peaks.

We continue the drive to Kargiak, the first southern village in Zanskar. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who used to move to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime, a two to three hour walk each way. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered school build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. Following the Kargiak Chu, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front, we ascend the switchbacks and cross the Shingo La pass, reaching the region of Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh!

We have another few hours of driving to reach Serchu, where our staff have set up our last campsite of the trek. Serchu is situated between Baralacha La Pass and Lachulung La Pass. Sarchu on the border of Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh. We’ll have a party to celebrate our last day of our trek through the Indian Himalaya, and hand out tips to the boys. Ang Chuk, Tashi and our other drivers will arrive with beers from Leh … (B, L, D)
Distance: 165km (Drive)

Day 23 – Drive Leh  
We continue our spectacular drive through Rupshu, along the Manali – Leh highway, turn left at Umchi and then drive along the Indus Highway past Hemis, Stakna, Matho and Thikse monasteries, Shey Gompa and its crumbling fortress and eventually Stok palace (on alternating sides of the valley), a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori and cold beers are not far away! (5 hrs drive)
Distance: 230km (Drive)

Day 24 – Leh
One last day in Leh, our favorite Central Asian capital, in case of delays during the trek. You’ll also have time to do some more shopping and exploring, and to wind down after our journey through the remote routes of Ladakh and Zanskar. (B)

Day 25 – Trip Ends | Transfer Leh Airport  
Our wonderful journey through the Indian Himalaya ends today. We will transfer you to the Kushok Bakula Rimpoche Airport for your return journey. You have several options after the trip: a flight back to Delhi, an epic ‘jeep safari’ back to Manali or elsewhere in the Indian Himalaya, or spending more time in Leh. We’re happy to assist on all fronts, but Leh flights are not included in our India treks.

Extra Days in Leh
We are happy to book extra nights at the hotel, or a hotel of your choice, if you want to stay in Leh for a few extra days to explore our favorite Central Asian capital, or just to relax and soak in the mountain scenery. We are also happy to book trips to Nubra, the high lake region (Pangong, Tsomoriri + Tso Kar), sightseeing jeep safaris along the Indus Valley, rafting, bicycling down the Kardung La or any other activity you’d like!

TRAVEL NOTE | If you have successive international flights that are not all part of the same ticket or following domestic flights we suggest planning more cautiously and leaving an extra day in Leh.

Original Surichun La Route
Trek & Drive Kargiak 4015m  
Leaving our camp at Purne, we descend back down to the small bridge and then hike back up to the main Zanskar trail following the Kargiak Chu. We pass the small village of Yal, where fodder and kindling dry on the rooftops, in half an hour, and then continue on our high trail overlooking the Kargyak Chu for another hour until we reach the labyrinthine village of Testa, an oasis of green fields and traditional Zanskari houses. Next comes the colorful Kuru with its many threshing circles and white-washed mani walls. Trekking further along the trail past Kuru’s long chain of mani walls, we descend crossing a small stream coming down from our right, and then continue along the river bank for another half an hour. We cross the Kargiak Chu on a large bridge, continuing for another hour or so to the village of Tangze, with its many-hued patchwork of fields. We’ll stop at the small the small teahouse, owned by our friend Sonam Dorje, for a cup of tea if Sonam is around. Above us to the right of the trail is Tangze Gompa, one of the oldest in Zanskar, backed by jagged, dun-colored peaks.

We’ll enjoy the scenic hike to beautiful Kargiak village, the first southern village in Zanskar. Singge comes from this village, and we’ll hope to meet his blind mother who still moves to the doksas to take care of the animals in the summertime. It’s a two to three hour walk each way following the Kargiak Chu through a scenic, green valley dotted with villages, with the Gompa Rangjung monolith looming spectacularly in front of us in the direction of the Shingo La pass to Lahaul. We’ll hike along the opposite side of the river, and visit the lovely and cultural villages of Tangso and Skyng en route, perhaps stopping for a cup of tea at Singge’s cousin’s house. Skyng is always bustling with harvest activity, the golden barley undulating in the wind …

We cross a small bridge over the Kargiak Chu to reach our green, riverside campsite at Kargiak, and then head out to explore the village. The green oasis of Kargiak has a solar-powered school build and sponsored by a Czechoslovakian INGO, an old village gompa up top, large, tri-colored chortens to the south of the village and several sprawling multi-family houses forming the center of this scenic village. (4 hrs,) (B, L, D)
Distance: 9 km

Trek Surichun (Tseri Chen) La High Camp 5010m | Cross Kargiak La 4855m  
An incredible high pass route heading towards the Surichen La and high nomadic plateaus on the other side of the pass. Maps call this the Surichen La, but locals have told us that the real name is Tseri Chen, a sort of pea-like grass that grows in this region. Leaving Kargiak via the southern end of the village, we cross the small stream and ascend on a switchbacking trail, with fabulous views down over Kargiak, Skyng, Tangso and the Gompa Rangjung monolith. We reach the Kargiak La after about 2½ hours of hiking, and after a rest to admire the expansive views over southern Zanskar, we trek towards the right, hiking through an eggplant and jade-colored valley, on a rock and scree trail to reach a small plateau. Continuing for a short time, we reach a second plateau where the staff have set up our high camp amongst lichen-covered rocks, in a local grazing area, which we share with curious marmots. (4½ – 5 hrs, km) (B, L, D)

Trek Chumik Marpo | Cross Surichun La 5620m  
An epic hiking day crossing the high Surichun La, ending up in the same campsite as if we were crossing the Phirtse La, our traditional route leaving Zanskar. Leaving camp, we jump threads of the wide, rocky glacial stream, with snow on some of the peaks above us. We hike through a colorful landscape of lovely rocks, and we ascend several false passes, contouring around hillsides on colorful sand and scree trails to reach our Himalayan pass, actually a sort of double pass with prayer flags on each section. We’ll be rewarded with exceptional mountain vistas at the top!

Descending on steep scree trails, the valley eventually widens, becomes greener as we look down on the valley below. Contouring around the hillside, we pass the ‘red spring water’ (Chumik Marpo), jump the stream, keep descending as the valley widen even more, and eventually reach the wonderful campsite called Chumik Marpo, which overlooks rolling green hills. Chumik Marpo is a green doksa colored with high alpine flowers, overlooking green, rolling rolling hillsides ahead.  (7 – 8 hrs, km) (B, L, D)

Trek Berga Songchak 4410m  
We have 2 river crossing this morning, so have your sandals ready as we trek past marmots and local yaks, grazing in the high, green pastures near our campsite. We hike for about 45 minutes to reach a plateau camp, followed by a stone doksa, and then continue along the same side of the river for another hour to reach the wide and cold crossing, our first of the day, a mossy, somewhat slippery one.

Afterwards more trekking amongst green valleys and lovely rolling hills, a little piece of nomadic paradise in the Indian Himalaya. Valleys to the right lead to snow-peaks and the river grows as glacial melt adds to its volume. Lichen covered granite, weather-worn sedimentary rocks and purple flowers dot the landscape; we start to pass long, ancient mani walls signifying that we’re entering nomadic lands. The walking is easy with flat trails and grass underfoot, with a few small climbs en route. We pass more signs of nomadic existence and then have to cross the wide and often difficult Khamberop Togpo (river) at Kham Krap. We may take people over on horses; at the least use poles and link arms; the river is always wide, but generally not very deep.

These next two days, in the lower reaches of the Himalayan peaks, we often pass local ‘gaddi’ shepherds from Lahaul and the neighboring Hindu valleys with their large flocks of sheep and goats as we continue towards Sarchu, past Kyonon doksa. Eroded hoodoos look like stone-age cathedrals on the opposite side of the river. We trek through this wide expanse of river, green valleys, blue sky and snow peaks, past mani stones with chortens carved into them, and over a few small ridges for an hour before heading directly down through the eroded hoodoos to the river and another idyllic campsite at Berga Songchak, right on the relatively clear river.
(5 hrs, ) (B, L, D)
Distance: 13 km

Trek Chumik Gyartse 4280m  
We continue hiking through this magical nomadic Ladakhi landscape, crossing several more small streams with lots of birdlife, and trekking past ancient rocks deposited by glaciers eons ago. There is a small stream to jump and green springs just past camp, after which we climb briefly back up to the plateau and reach a line of Gadi nomadic doksas.

There are several deep valleys to descend into and climb out of, a few more streams to cross and more green plateaus to hike across until we reach the canyons leading to Sarchu. (Sarchu is across the large Lingti Chu (river) from our campsite at Chumik Gyartse). We descend steeply from the plateau, and just before our old campsite at Sarchu on our side of the river we have a quite large river crossing (depending on the water level). Afterwards, we hike through a briar patch of seabuckthorne, following a spring-fed stream, jumping or wading through a few intersecting streams. Soon we reach a large bridge spanning the Tsarap Chu and hike about 45 minutes north (along a flat trail) towards our wonderful campsite at the waterfall springs just below Chumik Gyartse.

Chumik Gyartse is where the Shun Shade valley inhabitants relocated years ago, and it’s interesting to hike half an hour above our camp to their new village. There is much controversy over whether life was better or worse in their old valley, the elders tending to regret the move as there is an issue with water in the new village (fish?). Check out the incredible falls and mineral springs just past camp, well worth a last day’s refreshing Himalayan shower!

Ang Chuk and the drivers will meet us at camp, having parked their jeeps past at the Sarchu Army Camp on the plateau across the river. We can look across the river to the Leh-Manali highway but our campsite is isolated and beautiful, on the side of a small stream for washings. We’ll have our tips party for the Kamzang Journeys staff tonight; Ang Chuk always brings us our order of beers! (6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 16km

Drive Leh  
We have a 20-minute hike upstream and across the bridge, and a last climb up to the embankment, and our epic Ladakh trek through the Indian Himalaya is finished! We’ll relax in the jeeps and enjoy the spectacular 5-hour drive through Rupshu, along the Manali – Leh highway, turn left at Umchi and then drive along the Indus Highway past Hemis, Stakna, Matho and Thikse monasteries, Shey Gompa and its crumbling fortress and eventually Stok palace (on alternating sides of the valley), a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori and cold beers are not far away! (5 hrs drive)

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Shun Shade Route
Trek Nyalo Kuntse High Camp 4410m
Leaving our Shangri-La at Shade, we trek into the lovely Shun Shade valley headed towards the Morang La and the Rupshu nomadic region. The other three villages in the Shun Shade valley are Marshun, Yarshun and Satok, all now deserted.

Trekking along the trail directly below the village, we pass through the entrance chorten and descend past the villagers, harvesting their crops, for 45 minutes to a point where the river plummets through a narrow gorge and the canyon closes in on us. At the intersection of the Niri Chu (river) we reach the village ‘lhatoo’ (4100 m), a kata scarf covered monument dedicated to Shade’s protector deity called Cho Gyumjang, a female goddess. Her peak is just to the left if you’re looking up the narrow canyon towards Shade, and locals invite the monks from Phuktal Gompa to have a yearly puja for her which we’ve been very lucky to witness. We have about ten minutes of slightly exposed trail as we head towards Trantrog Gompa (4020-meters), turning left at the lhatoo and trekking high above the river. Soon the valley opens, the turquoise river takes wide S turns and our canyons become dramatic hoodoos over the riverbed. We can see the tiny hamlet of Trantog ahead, with its small gompa said to be either 30-40 or 750 years old. Perhaps there was an ancient meditation cave at the site of this gompa, which the caretaker told us was built by a lama from Phuktal. The interesting woman who holds the key might be around to show us the village treasures. There are apparently only three people living in the village and about as many houses. Still, it’s certainly a scenic spot built up on a craggy hill overlooking this idyllic valley.

We continue along the willow-lined trail down to the Nyalo Kuntse Chu, where we’ve spotted red fox, and climb a short switchback to a plateau and viewpoint overlooking the Tsarap Chu. This is the intersection of a spectacular trail leading to the cliffside Phuktal Gompa, and further on to the Phirtse La, an incredible trek. Turning left, we descend briefly to a small bridge made of willow branches to the opposite side, from where we hike along the small, clear Tok Chu for half an hour. We have lunch before our ascent to camp, a tough 1 1/2 hour (350 meters) ascent on a switchbacking trail of scree to our slightly spartan high camp, next to a spring. This is a cold campsite, you’ll want your down jacket and an early night in the sleeping bag. (5 hrs)

Trek Hormoche 3970m | Cross Nyalu Kuntse La 4830m & Gotundal La 5150m
Up early, and after a cold breakfast we will start on our two pass day, by any reckoning a long, hard Himalayan trekking day, fantastically beautiful and diverse. It will take us a few hours of climbing, a 400-meter ascent, to reach the Nyalu Kuntse La (4830m), where we will take a break and marvel at the incredible mountain vistas. A little bit of old Tibet, and classic Ladakh and Zanskar trekking.

From the crest of the pass, we look out on our second pass, the Gotundal La, straight up the neighboring ridge. It would be easier if we didn’t need to drop, traverse and switch-back up again, but alas! Another 2 1/2 hours later, we reach the top of the Gotundal La (5150m). As if we hadn’t suffered enough already today, we drop down the valley a bit to a small watering hole, and then are forced to traverse several ridges to a last crest, where we have yet another breathtaking view. It’s all worth it, especially the next section, a bizarre moonscape, starkly beautiful, resembling the remains of a volcanic upheaval. To the left as we descend are two small opaque, turquoise lakes and below us rocks hollowed out by wind, water or heat. Geologists welcome! We soon reach a lone doksa, partially overgrown with high grasses, from where we descend very steeply on a sandy switchback, cross a small stream and emerge from this narrow canyon to our incredible campsite right along the turquoise Tsarap Chu.

Before collapsing in the dining tent, grab a hot chai and take a wander through the newly planted willow-patch, look down on the semi-abandoned houses across the valley (Marshun village) and absorb this sublime, expansive landscape. (8 hrs)

Trek Satok 4025m
Another sandals day! These next few days are just mind-bogglingly beautiful, with no other trekkers in sight, and we will take some time to enjoy them as we trek. We leave our idyllic campsite and walk past the few small dwellings of Hormoche, which seems to be (have been) only a seasonal settlement. There is an ‘chomo-gompa’ or nunnery half an hour down the trail, now sadly unoccupied, its statues gazing blindly out on the empty assembly hall. We follow the eastern bank of the magnificent Tsarap Chu, heading southeast, on a high mesa which drops to the river below in dramatic hoodoos. We have to descend and ascend three times into eroded slide regions making the hike harder than it would seem, but the views make up for it. We’ll share our trail with chortling chukkars, a partridge-like bird found around much of the Himalayan ranges. The Tsarap Chu, far below, ranges in color from a striking turquoise blue to brown depending on the volume of water pulsing though it’s canyons. 2 1/2 hours from camp we drop to the river to cross the large, intersecting Zara Chu. This is our ‘Zara River Camp’ where we camped in 2011 because of unusually high waters. The Zara Chu leads to Rupshu, and we will see it again later in our trek.

After crossing the river our trail ascends and we climb on a loose scree and sand trail, afterwards contouring around several hillsides. It’s half an hour to the scenic, small bridge on the right leading, we imagine, to high pasturelands. We pass through several seasonal settlements, now abandoned, before arriving at the deserted Munele village where we stop for lunch by a rocky spring, in the grass. Another few hours of beautiful hiking along flat plateaus peppered with large rocks with a bit of exposure en route leads us to the ancient chorten above Satak. Satak village was deserted a few years ago, the inhabitants now occupying houses built for Tibetan refugees on the Leh-Manali highway. It’s hard to imagine what prompted them to leave such a wonderful spot for their new haunts. The village is now a museum; the last time we camped there, we explored the small alleyways, peeked into the windows and even borrowed some salt. Many of the villagers belongings are still inside, and grass and wood for the winter is still piled on the roofs. (6 hrs)

Trek Tsokmitsik 4100m | Cross Satok La 4406m
Leaving camp we descend into, and climb out of, the narrow, willow filled canyon ahead of us, side stepping the grazing yaks and jumping the small stream. We have a 20-minute hike across the flat plateau before starting to climb on a slightly exposed, contouring trail on the left of the river, far above the Tsarap Chu, which snakes its way between deep canyon walls below us. We cross a flat plateau and continue to climb to a flat rock protruding over the canyon, continuing our approximately 350 meter ascent. There are several ridges to crest, each with a drop afterwards, but the trail is good, so it’s not a difficult hike. We’ve named the ridges Satok Ridge (4375m) and Satok La (4406m). From the last ridge, actually a pass, we’re treated to wonderful views behind us, but especially in front of us in the direction of the Morang La which we’ll cross in a couple of days. If the weather is good we might have lunch here before starting the straight-forward descent down to the river. Once a bit lower, we’ll pass several doksa followed by a wolf trap (in which we’ve actually found dead wolves). Another small climb and descent, and then one more hot climb to our last plateau which we cross before descending to our campsite just around the corner.

The campsite at Tsokmitsik is another idyllic one, right on the river at the intersection to the Morang La trekking route. Our tents will be set up near the river side, and we can jump in for a well deserved swim! Perhaps tonight even warrants a sundowner rum punch … (6 hrs)

Trek Leh Manali Highway. Drive Leh
It’s a short river walk to meet Ang Chuk and the team at the Leh Manali highway. Trek finished, we’ll relax in the jeeps and enjoy the spectacular five hour drive through Rupshu, along the Manali – Leh highway, turn left at Umchi and then drive along the Indus Highway past Hemis, Stakna, Matho and Thikse monasteries, Shey Gompa and its crumbling fortress and eventually Stok palace (on alternating sides of the valley), a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori and cold beers are not far away! (5 hrs drive)

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Alternate Longer Morang La (Pass) Route
Trek Morang La High Camp 4810m
Another wonderful day as we pass through the narrow canyon, with ancient fossil beds, and hike up a narrow river valley towards the Morang La. You might want your sandals today depending on the water level as we cross a stream for the first few hours. Heading through the narrow canyon which soon widens, we jump back and forth across the small, willow lined stream for the first 20 minutes and then start to climb, continuing until we reach a small doksa. From here we drop back down to the river, the sun shimmering on the willows hanging onto existence between the high canyon walls. Heading to the left we start to ascend again, this time more steeply as the valley narrows and becomes more rocky and stark. From camp it should take us just under 2 hours to reach the base camp, from where we head up the right fork of the valley and switchback quite steeply for another 1 1/2 hours. The valley eventually widens again and cliff faces soar above our rocky camp at Morang La High Camp. There are green, grazing pastures above us so we might have four footed visitors in the afternoon. (4 hrs)

Trek Bong La Camp 4525m | Cross Morang La 5130m
Up and over the formidable Morang La and into the nomadic region of Rupshu! It should take us 2 hours to ascend to the top of the Morang La (5130m), starting by switchbacking on a scree trail while heading towards the hill with the rocky outcropping on top. Once on this flat section we have another switchback to the Morang La, where we are treated to views of the snow-capped Himalayan range behind us, and the Zanskar range in front, a spectacular panorama.

Descending steeply on a gravely trail, we jump the river after 30-45 minutes and stop for lunch on a grassy knoll soon afterwards. From lunch we trek for another beautiful hour or so to our Bong La Camp, again jumping the small stream, during which the valley narrows and becomes greener. Our grassy camp is at the bottom of this idyllic valley at the head of an extremely narrow canyon. The trail out of camp the next day is above camp to the right, bypassing this canyon. Enjoy the afternoon after a big Himalayan pass day! (8 hrs)

Trek Zabuk Barma 4350m
Today we head into well loved nomadic territory, hiking down the green valley on the right side of the valley (there is a road being built on the opposite side, sadly). We’ll pass a large doksa soon after leaving camp, and then a mani wall and large chorten. An hour from this last chorten after a short, traversing climb brings us to a small pass where we will have a short rest in front of the mountain home of the three sister goddesses. Look back across the Zara Chu to see the ‘Five Sisters’ peaks, the dwelling of the five mountain goddesses that live in the distinctly shaped range. From here we descend gradually to the right, contour up and down several arid hillsides and reach a short but dramatic canyon through which we descend. Turning left we soon reach a broad plateau with chortens marking routes on all three sides and a cluster of eight magnificent, white-washed chortens across the river. Fifteen minutes later we drop into the seasonal nomadic settlement of Sangtha, built of rounded, white river rocks and littered with goat and sheep droppings. Cross the river to the complex of mani stones and chortens for wonderful photos and great views back to Sangtha, which marks the intersection of the Ladakhi and Tibetan nomadic regions.

We follow the magnificent, clear Zara Chu on the chorten-side to a grassy lunch spot at the first river intersection. We continue for another hour or so on the same side (left) past more sparkling river intersections, nomadic settlements (doksas), and a wolf trap and then drop down to the grassy riverside. Near camp on our side of the river is a marmot colony, with small trails leading to their tunnel shelters.

One more river bend and we spot out campsite across the river at Zhabuk Barma, a spectacularly-situated seasonal settlement of the Karnak-pa. To the east (below our camp) the Tozay Chu leads to Pang on the Leh-Manali highway and the Ladakhi nomadic region of Kharnak, and is bordered by a fantastic canyon of sculpted rocks leads. The campsite is wonderful and green with perfect swimming holes along the river and a cold, fresh spring in back. There are three tri-colored chortens in a shallow cave above the stone doksas, worth a steep climb up for views over the campsite and down the valley. And just to the left of these, a steep valley leading up to a fantastic plateau with vast vistas, a must-do in the afternoon with the perfect light. Keep your eyes on the hilltops next to camp for kyang, Himalayan hare and blue sheep, all of which are common in this area. We’ll have a yak dung fire in the evening, an atmospheric Ladakhi evening! (5 1/2 hrs)

Trek Sangda 3795m. Drive Leh
An easy, flat and green hike up the Zara Chu, with blue sheep shadowing us a we trek towards the nomadic settlement of Sangda, right on the Zara Chu. Here we meet Ang Chuk and jump into our jeeps for a scenic drive back to Leh, en route passing the eastern Indus valley gompas, amongst them Stakna, Thikse and Shey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex. Enjoy your last afternoon in Leh, our favorite Central Asian capital,  winding down after a wonderful journey through the high, nomadic regions of ‘old Tibet’. (2 hrs trek, 5 hrs drive)

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Narbus Nomads Route
Another older route to keep on file …

Trek Narbus 4820m (cross Narbus La 4850m). Drive Leh
A wonderfully dramatic hike this morning as we re-cross the Zara Chu right out of camp and climb to a high plateau just above us. Heading slightly around the hilltop to our right we cross the plateau on a sort of natural bridge and reach the fantastic canyons above the Tozay Chu to reach the sculpted canyons. The multi-hued spires of rock sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion make for amazing photos. The river valley below our camp leads to the small settlement of Pang, which is off the Leh Manali highway from Narbus. We hike along this plateau, a feast of textures and colors high above the valley below, eventually contouring left towards the Narbus La.

It will take us four or five hours from camp to crest the 4850 meter pass. From the wide crest, marked by a small cairn, we used to look down on the canvas and yak-hair tents of the Tibetan nomadic settlement of Narbus where we set up camp for the night. Our nomadic Tibetan friends once camped here for four months every summer, but sadly have now had to give up their nomadic existence and move to Leh. Once on the high plateau, we meet our drivers and our treks ends ….

Back in our private jeeps, we have a scenic drive back to Leh. En route we pass the eastern Indus valley gompas, amongst them the Thikse and Shey. Back at the Shaynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers await! (4 – 5 hrs trek, 5 hrs driving)

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Alternate Stongde – Shade River Route
An alternative route to Shade in case of any issues with the above route. 

Trek Stongde 3585m
Climbing gradually out of our campsite, we soon reach Zangla Chomo Gompa (nunnery) to the northern side of the village, and then follow the village road past the King of Zangla’s house, where we had tea last summer with his relatives. The piece de resistance of Zangla, however, is its fortress. The ruins of the 500 year-old Zangla Fort, the old dzong (palace fortress) of the ancient Kings of Zangla, are a breathtaking site, built precariously on top of a ledge of rock at the intersection of the Zanskar River and the small river leading out to the Jumlam, or middle route. This route was an autumn trading route to avoid the high passes of Ladakh, and must have been open to invasions, thus the fort and series of look-out towers down the Jumlam valley. The dzong houses a wonderful prayer room, which we happened upon a few years ago. In 2005, over two straight weeks of continuous rain and wind literally ‘melted’ the dzong, and it is now quite unsafe to enter, although someone always wants to go inside. The famous Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma de Koros spent a winter in the 19th century studying Tibetan in order to make a dictionary in a room in the fort, now commemorated as his room. Ancient chortens with tsatsas in the niches line the trail as we descend back to the trail and continue trekking to Stongde.

We have a few options for the rest of the day, one of which is to hitch a ride to Stongde (see options below). Today is the only day where we intersect the new road built through much of Ladakh and Zanskar. But we have ways to avoid this, and can spend much of the day ‘off-road’, passing through the still-remote villages of Tsazar and Shillingskyid en route to Stongde.

Our campsite at Stongde sits right below Stongde Gompa (see below), and we’ll be visited by some rather energetic village kids in the afternoon. Kim and the staff will need to re-supply in Padum for the exploratory section of the trek which we start tomorrow from the upper Stongde Gompa trail. You have a few options for the day:

Trek Stongde Doksa High Camp 4335m
Hiking the steep forty five minutes up to Stongde Gompa, we’ll meet Geshe Stenzin and his brother Yongton and listen to the resonating chanting of the monks at their morning puja, the drums, the ringing of bells and the clanging of cymbals, a sublime event. Afterwards, continuing past the rows of gigantic white chortens which line the trail leading to the Stongde La, we have only two hours of somewhat steep climbing, contouring around several hillsides and crossing a few green, swampy spring valleys to reach our high camp below the Stongde La. Stongde Doksa High Camp is a grassy plateau which affords wonderful views of Stongde Gompa and up and down the Zanskar valley. There is a cold spring above camp, and a doksa just above us where three lovely, elderly Stondge ladies (widows?) often reside and take care of the sheep and goats. Yogurt might be available, not for the squeamish . We can see tomorrow’s pass far above us. Look for blue sheep above Stongde Gompa and near our camp, and Kim will tell you stories of the ‘hidden’ village nestled in the high, fluted cliffs above camp.

Trek Suslantaktak 4290m | Cross Stongde La 5165m
Another pass day, a long and hard day starting with an 800-meter climb to the Stongde La (5165-meters), so don’t skimp on breakfast or coffee! We’ll have a good 3-4 hours of ascending, again contouring around green valleys where yaks and dzobkyos graze, to the windy and often cold Stongde La. There is one steep switchback just before the crest although the top is quite broad. From the pass we are rewarded with great views of the Namtse La, Zangla village, Stongde Gompa and village and the wrinkle of craggy mountains which make up the Zanskar Range. The descent is also long and gradual, again 3-4 hours to camp. It’s a spectacular walk on this side of the pass; I remember being blown away by the beauty and colors of the hillsides and canyons a few years ago when we did this exploratory section for the first time.

We’ll spend the first 1 1/2 hours descending carefully on a trail of large scree and rocks, difficult for the horses to navigate, hiking high above the turquoise Shingri Chu which winds its way through the canyons below us. We’ll have to cross the river, usually small but if it’s a very hot day possibly large, from where the path is better and the going easier. Look for blue sheep grazing on the nearby hillsides, and note the fossilized oysterbeds in large chunks of rocks once back at the river. After half an hour of hiking along a trail high above the right bank of the river we drop down to the riverbed and follow the trail through small groves of willows, a wonderful riverside walk during which we’ll probably have to cross and re-cross the river. Finally, we arrive at our plateau-top campsite, green willows lining the riverbanks surrounding us. We are at the intersection of the trails leading to Ichar and Phuktal, a route we didn’t manage to complete last year. We might share the campsite with local Stongde-pa, bringing back their yaks from the doksas along this river. Don’t miss the cliffs lit up with the late afternoon sun …

Trek Sum Shade Zingchan 4100 | Cross Shringi La 4260m
A classic, beautiful trekking day, continuing to following the willow-lined Shingri Chu, with many chilly river crossings to keep things exciting. Don’t forget your sandals for the next few days! This valley is called the Sum (or Sun) Shade valley, after the river junctions (sumdo) and Shade village, the most prominent village in the valley and one of the only ones inhabited these days. Many of the other villagers left their villages, their houses and roofs still filled with furniture, wood, dried grass and blankets, and re-situated themselves in houses built by the Ladakhi government to house Tibetan refugees. The Tibetans apparently didn’t like the location, so the new dwellings were taken over by many of the Sum Shade inhabitants.

We’ll have one small climb after the river crossings, at the intersection of Niri Chu, up to the Shringi La (4260-meters), a high grazing pasture where we’ll perhaps stop for lunch. From here it’s an easy hour or less of high contouring to reach Zingchan, our wonderful campsite. Zingchan sites high up above the river on a plateau, with spring water and wood for a campfire in the evening. Go carefully to the edge of the large rock that forms the cliff above the river for amazing views up and down valley …

Trek Shade 4270m 
Yet another idyllic river day, started with half an hour of trekking along the plateau, high above the river on a slightly exposed trail, to the river intersection where dramatic hoodoos rise from the valley bottom. There are many blue sheep in this area, in fact all the way out to Narbus, so keep an eye on the jagged cliff-sides above us, or down next to the streams if they have come down for water. We switchback steeply to the intersecting small stream which we jump before ascending steeply again to the crest of the plateau. We continue to contour for another 1 1/2 hours to a doksa on the edge of the plateau. From here we drop to the river and hike for 5-10 minutes before crossing to the other side of the wide river, now called the Niri Chu. Another climb to a high trail along the left side of the river followed by a hike along another slightly exposed, high trail cut into the cliffs for half an hour or so. Look down to the old, wooden bridge where the river makes a sweeping S turn far below. Pass through the gate to keep livestock in (or out), descend slightly to a small bridge spanning the small Shade stream and we’ll reach an interesting lhatoo at the opposite side of the intersection (4010m). The kata-covered lhatoo is dedicated to the god Cho Gyumjang, a female protectress of Shade and the neighboring villages. The peak on top of which she resides is to the left of Shade stream as we look up towards Shade. We’ve been lucky to happen upon local puja, performed by visiting monks from Phuktal Gompa, honoring her. From this lhatoo at the intersection of the Niri Chu and the narrow gorge leading towards isolated Shade, we follow a good trail along the stream, crossing over it once we’ve passed the deep gorge behind us. We’ll trek up 250 meters (or an hour) to Shade village; along the way, we’ll pass the villagers working in the fields, happily greeting us as we pass by.

Just before the village we’ll pass through the patchwork of fields and Shade’s entrance chorten. Our campsite is just past Shade village, on the only flat area next to a stream, a spot perfectly situated for Shade is a village of 14 traditional Ladakhi houses with approximately 95 inhabitants. Three of the men are in the Indian Army, bringing a bit of extra wealth to the village. There are also five lamas/monks and one ‘chomo’, or nun, residing in the village, impressive for a remote village of this size. The villagers and village kids will be by in the afternoon, and Kim & Lhakpa will probably go into town to hunt for supplies. You’re welcome to join and watch the sheep and goats bring brought into the closed paddocks for milking.

2024 Dates
3 – 27 Aug
25 Days

2024 Trek Price
$4880

Early Booking Price (Ends 30 April)
$4680

+ NO Single Supplement Shaynam Hotel
+ NO Single Supplement Camping
+ Flights NOT Included (Meet Leh)

Includes

• Hotels in Leh (Breakfast)
• NO Single Supplement for Camping!
• Restricted Area Permits
• Personalized Leh Sightseeing (With Kim)
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Airport Transfers
• Optional Rafting or Cycling Trips
• Kamzang Journeys Boutique Trekking
  Single Northface tents (2+3 person tents), delicious, plentiful meals with seasonal, fresh produce, French Press organic coffee, Indian Chai, Kashmiri + herbal teas, Katadyn filtered drinking water, warm washing water, trek library of books, full medical kit, our Kamzang ‘lounge’ tent with Indian cotten rugs, Crazy Creek camp chairs, blankets + occasional music in the evenings. For support, our caravan of horses + mules, Western, Sherpa + local guides and our 5-Star Kamzang Journeys team. Highlight is our signature yellow Kamzang dining tent’. NO single supplement for single tents. AND flexibility, experience, adventure,  safety, challenge + fun!

Safety & Health Precautions

• Thuraya Satellite Phone (when allowed)
• Garmin InReach Satellite Messaging System (when allowed)
• Updated Route published on Garmin Site (when allowed)
• Helicopter Evacuation Services (when allowed)
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (portable oxygen chamber)
• Oxygen (cost not included)
• Full Medical Kit + Stretcher
• Katadyn Filtered Water
• Safe, Sanitary, Delicious + Plentiful Food + Drinks

Excludes

• Domestic + International Fights
• Indian Visa
• Lunch + Dinner in Leh
• Travel + Travel Health Insurance
• Equipment Rental
• Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
• Gompa (Monastery) Donations
• Laundry (staff will do for donations)
• Tips

Hotels in Leh | Extra Nights & Boutique Hotels
We use Hotel Shaynam, Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Ladakh, Leh Plaza & Hotel Omasila, as our arrival hotels depending on availability and your room preferences. Our standard hotel with no single supplement charge is the Hotel Shaynam. Kim and the Kamzang Journeys staff stay here, a lovely family-run guest house with a blooming garden, deck chairs, tables and umbrellas. We offer upgrade and single supplement charges for Hotel Chospa, Hotel Padma Leh, Hotel Leh Plaza and Omasila. We will book all hotels for you regardless of where you stay, so please specify your preference when booking a trek. Breakfast included in all of the hotels.

Hotel Shaynam
Hotel Shaynam
Extra Nights – Single $35 | Double $40

Hotel Chosa | Upgrade Charge
Chospa Hotel
Heritage Rooms – Single $165 | Double $185 Night ($825 & $925 Trip)

Hotel Chospa | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms – Single $200 | Double $225

Hotel Padma Ladakh | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Padma Ladakh
Garden Rooms – $10 Night Single & Double ($50 Trip)
Deluxe Rooms – $50 Night Single & Double ($250 Trip)
Super Deluxe Rooms – $80 Night Single & Double ($400 Trip)
Premium Rooms with Balcony – $100 Night Single & Double ($500 Trip)

Hotel Padma Ladakh | Extra Nights 
Garden Rooms – Single $45 | Double $55
Deluxe Rooms – Single $90 | Double $105
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $120 | Double $135
Premium Rooms – Single $145 | Double $160

Hotel Leh Plaza | Upgrade Charge 
Hotel Leh Plaza
Super Deluxe Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Premium Rooms – $65 Night Single & Double ($325 Trip)

Leh Plaza | Extra Nights
Super Deluxe Rooms – Single $75 | Double $95
Premium Rooms – Single $100 | Double $120

Hotel Omasila | Upgrade Charge
Hotel Omasila
Heritage Rooms – $40 Night Single & Double ($200 Trip)
Suite Rooms – $90 Night Single & Double ($450 Trip)

Hotel Omasila | Extra Nights
Heritage Rooms -– Single $65 | Double $75
Suite Rooms – Single $125 | Double $135

Hotel Shaynam
Single Supplement – No Charge
Extra Nights – Single $35, Double $40
+ Breakfast Included

Padma Guest House
Single Supplement – $75
Double Upgrade – No Charge
Extra Nights – Single $45, Double $55
Extra Nights New Wing – Single $65, Double $75
+ Breakfast Included

Hotel Omasila
Single Supplement – $175
Double Upgrade – $200
Suite Upgrade – $400
Extra Nights – Single $70, Double $80, Suite $120
+ Breakfast Included

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approximately $300 for meals (while not on trek), drinks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $350 per trekker thrown into the tips pool for the crew.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Client Highlights & Reviews
Travelers’ Comments

Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Trek Highlights

• Leh + the Historic Indus Valley
• Indus Valley Tibetan Buddhist Gompas (Monasteries), Fortresses + Palaces
• Opportunities for Bicycling, White Water Rafting + Exploration of Old Leh
• Wild + Remote Trekking Routes in Ladakh + Zanskar, the Indian Himalaya
• Our Remote, Spectacularly Beautiful Kanji, Dibling, Stongde, Shade Route
• The Shun Shade Valley
• Zangla Palace + Fortress
• Trekking across the Zanskar + Himalayan Ranges
• Traditional Ladakhi Village Life
• Dramatic Canyon Lands, River Crossings + Snow Leopard Prints
• Yaks, Pashmina Goats, Salt Butter Tea + Tibetan Woven Tents
• Snow Peaks + High Himalayan Passes
• Green Tibetan Changtang Plateau
• Beautiful Campsites + River Swims
• Central Asian Wildlife
• Challenging Trekking + Few Other Trekkers
• Our Unique Kamzang Journeys Itineraries
• Our ‘Boutique Style’ Kamzang Journeys Trekking Style
• Our Awesome Kamzang Journeys Team
• Gourmet Meals
• Extra Days for Acclimatization + Exploration
• 15+ Years of in Depth Experience Trekking + Traveling in the Himalayas!

Kamzang Journeys Menus
Camp Menus

Client Highlights
Outstanding trekking adventure, first class guides and personal attention – this is why Kamzang has so many repeat clients! We trekked with Kim Bannister and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa for 22 days through remote Zanskar in Aug 2014. It was the adventure of a lifetime. Kim has many years experience and a loyal team of support staff and horsemen. Food and camping were very well organized; Kim and Lhakpa lead us through stunning scenery into remote Zanskari villages. Their detailed local knowledge and ability to speak with villagers made for a memorable rich experience. Over high passes and crossing rivers we always were in good hands. Thoroughly recommended if you really want to trek off the map.
– David R. & Kathy F (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2014

This was the third time I’ve trekked with Kamzang Journeys and Kim and her crew it was lovely to be back amongst friends. Ladakh is a fabulous destination and a real step back in time to ‘real’ travelling. Trekking with Kim and her crew is authentic but also luxurious; a single tent as standard, the ‘Festival Tent’ for relaxation and meals, hot water for tea/coffee on ‘tap’, and great standards of cooking! No fears of food poisoning as hygiene is excellent. If you’re stuck with June – September for your long Himalayan trekking Ladakh is the place to go and Kim and Kamzang Journeys are the people to go with!
– Sally L (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek + more

A bucket list must, and an expeditionary style adventure in a pristine environment. All at the good hands of Kim Bannister, the organizational wizard, and her extraordinary staff. Kim and her guide partner Lhakpa Dorji led us on an idyllic route through the remote and beautiful Ladakh & Zanskar region of northern India. My initial apprehensions, as a first time trekker, were quickly extinguished by the friendly and professional manner of the competent staff. It was the experience of a life time, certainly one that I will never forget. This trekking company deserves a “5 star rating”! You need only bring a good set of lungs, a strong pair of legs, a zest for adventure and a sense of humor. I will return!
– Tom B (USA), Ladakh & Zanskar Kora Trek 2013

Magnificent treks and highly professional! I have trekked with Kim four times, three in Ladakh in Northern India and one in Nepal. On all four occasions the treks were very well organised and run in a very professional manner. Kim’s crew are all enthusiastic and are very happy to provide assistance where necessary. As trekkers you are very well looked after with individual tents and a large tent for socializing and dining. Kim and Lhakpa plan their treks so they are interesting and that they go off the beaten track and you are not walking in procession with other trekking groups, Kim is aware of the different needs and capabilities of her trekkers and her daily itineraries cater for all. On the more challenging parts of her treks Kim and her crew are always there to support. I hope to do more trekking with Kim and Kamzang Journeys and highly recommend them.
– Dennis B (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2015, Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek 2013 + more
Thank you very much for a wonderful trek. I felt so very well looked after, from great food to river crossings to much needed breaks and always someone to see that we did not feel lost or alone. Your attention to detail, from the shopping expeditions both in Leh and along the way, from the variety and quality of food to making sure that everything we needed was provided and easy to access, is amazing. Also your energy and generosity of time and spirit in those extra expeditions to nomad tents, the fort etc. when many leaders would have signed off for the day.
– Leslie S (Australia), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2012

I have done a number of treks with a variety of companies. One of these treks was to Ladakh, India with Kamzang. I found the trek’s organization and quality of food to be excellent. Equally important was Kim’s knowledge of the cultures that we trekked through, so that we, as relative outsiders, could gain some insight into their lives. However, two things stand out. Kim’s infectious enthusiasm: not just for the landscapes and cultures we passed through but for dad-to-day life on the trek. Secondly, the shared ‘mess-tent’, a haven of comfort and conversation. Very highly recommended.
– Roger E (UK), Nomads, Lakes & High Passes Trek 2011

What a trip! Thanks for all your hard work and imagination. Truly a spectacular journey and the clientele you attracted was a magnificent bonus.
– Chris R (USA), Wild Ladakh & Rupshu Trek

Wow! What an unforgettable experience you have given me. I was constantly amazed at your patience with the individual needs and concerns of the group and of the heartfelt care and connection you have with your staff and horses. You are a great leadership team and a joy to wake up to each morning! The landscape, the interactions with the villagers, nuns and monks along the way, the exhileration of the more risky bits of the trip and your smiling faces will not be forgotten. Thank you & Jullay!
– Annie K, Wild Zanskar 2010

I think about you and Lhakpa and everybody a lot; and I miss the trek, the beautiful mountains, the amazing sceneries and rich culture there. Every time when I go through my trekking photos, the memories of those great moments come back to me, speaking to me and asking me why I haven’t packed my gears and signed up for my next Himalaya trip?!
– Summer T (China), Wild Ladakh Zanskar Traverse

I have been on treks with Kim four times. All her trips are superbly well organized and smoothly run. Everything is take care of. The food is great and accommodation good. The only thing you have to do is the walking. It’s a five star service and great value!
– Peter H (UK), Ladakh & Zanskar Treks + more

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Articles & Documentaries | Ladakh & Zanskar, Indian Himalaya
Buddhist nuns travel for the first time – A touching journey through India | Caroline Reigel Video

Kamzang Journeys | The Ladakh Great Himalayan Bicycle Trip | David Koelle Video

Stunning Time Lapse of Ladakh in 4K | Reels & Frames

Becoming a Woman in Zanskar | Jean-Michel Corillion

Ladakh Diaries | Postcard from Paradise | India Today – Features Kamzang Journeys

Nomads in Ladakh: Hard Living at Altitude | France LeClerc Blog

On Snow Leopard Mountain | BBC Planet Earth

Child Monks of the Himalayas | BBC – In Pictures

Chang Tang Pa | Cat Vinton Photo Essay

Silent Roar, The Snow Leopard | National Geographic Documentary

Shepherdess of the Glaciers | Trailer YouTube

Ladakh, Mountains & Men | Le Figaro

Blog Article | Za Rahula Local Nomadic God

Ladakh, the Last Shangri La | National Geographic

A Journey to Little Tibet | National Geographic

Legends of Dha Hanu | Stephan Kloos

India: Extreme Biking in Beautiful Ladakh | The Telegraph UK

The Grey Ghosts of the Mountains | Vimeo

Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times

Cracking India’s Mystifying Nod Code – BBC Travel

The Ravishing Art of Alchi – NY Times Books

The Planet Doesn’t Need Money, It Needs Behavioral Change: Sonam Wanchuk | The Week

A Brother’s Five Decade Search for a Lost King From Ladakh | A Better India

The Ice Stupas | New Yorker

Yak Herders’ Vanishing Way of Life | New York Times

Himalaya, Land of Women | Marianne Chaud ZED Arte France

Our World Return to Zanskar | BBC

Kashmir & Srinagar
A Journey to Kashmir’s Gurez Valley | NY Times

Kashmir, the Inheritance of Loss | New York Times

What is Article 270 & Why Does it Matter in Kashmir? | New York Times

Haider | Kashmir Film

Street Food in India | India Mike Blog

Fascinating Delhi & India Article Series
Jungle Prince of Delhi | NY Times

Mystery of the Royal Family of Oudh Unravels a Bit More | NY Times

Special Episode | The Jungle Prince | NY Times

Gandhi & India | BBC Documentaries

In Search of Gandhi | BBC Documentary

The Making of the Mahatma – Part 1

The Rise to Fame – Part 2

The Road to Freedom – Part 3

Ladakh Cycling Videos
Nubra – Wari La Cycle | David Koelle

Lamayuru, Leh, Nubra + Khardung La Cycle – | David Koelle

Pangong Lake + Chang La Cycle | David Koelle

Srinagar – Lamayuru Cycle | David Koelle

Leh – Manali Cycle | David Koelle

Kamzang Journeys | Ladakh Trek Videos
Kamzang Journeys | Kharnak Nomads | MennoBen

Kamzang Journeys | Markha Valley | MennoBen

Journeys | Changthang Nomads | MennoBen

Kamzang Journeys | Rupshu Nomads | MennoBen

Leh & Indus Valley | MennoBen