Everest High Passes (Khumbu) Guided Lodge Trek
Nepal Himalaya Trek

Everest High Passes Guided Lodge Trek (Gokyo Lakes Trek, Everest Base Camp Trek & More!) – Nepal Himalayan Trekking
Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tour
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information and photos, and go over some of our trek details and logistics. Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (see Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples.

We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. Option to visit Boudhanath Stupa, Cafe Caravan and have dinner at Roadhouse Boudhanath overlooking the stupa. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepalis circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts and often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Lukla 2850m/9350′. Trek Monjo 2835m/9300′ (Kailash Lodge)
Just after sunrise, we embark on a spectacular 25-minute flight over the Kathmandu valley and along snow-capped Himalayan peaks to the renowned Hillary Norgay Airport in Lukla. After sorting out our loads on our dzobkios (or dzos, a mix of yak and cow) and a hearty breakfast at Paradise Lodge on the other side of the airstrip we start trekking into the incredible Everest region!

Leaving the bustling village of Lukla, packed with colorful shops, restaurants, bars and still a bit of Sherpa character, we trek north, with snow-capped Karyolung peak in the distance. The quaint, checkered and green village of Chaunrikharka, with its many whitewashed chortens and a Hillary school, sits in the valley just below the trail. The trail takes us above a rhododendron-choked forest, over the school and gonpa (monastery), and past fields of barley, spinach, and potatoes of the village. We are trekking along the Dudh Kosi (river) on a centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well-traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and used to be used by Tibetan traders (Khampas, most distinguishable by the length of red or black tassel wrapped around their heads) conducting business between the weekly markets of Lukla and Namche with Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the 5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet. The pass, and customs, have been closed for about a decade over trade issues between Nepal and China, sadly. The Khumbu has now lost a bit of its unique character without the border trade from Tibetan, and these lively Tibetan traders. 

Half an hour out of Lukla we reach the lovely hamlet of Chheplung. The sacred peak of Khumbila rises up the valley ahead of us, a black triangle that dominates the skyline. Just past Chhuplung, a 20-minute hike up the hill, is the small Rangdo Gompa although there aren’t monks staying anymore. From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing the metal bridge, we have our first view of the three statues peaks of Kusum Khangkaru to the east. Half an hour of lovely trekking over cobbled trails brings us to Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and prayer flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, was responsible for this magical setting. The inscriptions on the carved mani rocks is either ‘Om Mani Padme Hung’ (‘Hail to the jewel in the lotus”, the mantra for the next lifetime) or ‘Om Ma A Hung Baja Guru Padma Side Hung’ (the mantra to Guru Rimpoche to remove obstacles).

Once at Phakding, a lively village a half hour’s walk from Ghat, we will stop for lunch at Ang Sani and Jangbu’s Shangri La Lodge, and son Nawang opened a cafe with great cappuccinos. Hiking by the small tea houses servicing the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi, past the new lodges and trek above the river, climbing through evergreen forests to reach the first lodge of Benkar. Look up to the protruding rocks for Himalayan thar, and some of the rocks that we pass are almost remelted granites or migmatypes, rocks similar to gneiss but with more swirls. Continuing over a small bridge, we continue through larger Benkar, the first village to attend the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, several small tea houses serving local fare, and another climb, and we reach Chumoa, with apple and peach trees that bloom in the springtime. One more small bridge and a last climb on uneven stone steps to reach Monjo, where we stop at the wonderful Kailash Lodge, run by Yangti Sherpa, for the night. Many of the cottages with views also have hot showers, we’ll secure as many as possible of these rooms.

Monjo is a small Sherpa village tucked away in the forests high above the Dudh Kosi where Kim taught English years ago, only the newer part of the village visible from the trail. There is a newly reconstructed monastery above the school, and above that a steep drop-off and good view of tomorrow’s hike. (6-7 hrs) (B, L, D) 
Distance:13km

TRAVEL NOTE | Lukla flights are presently being run out of the Ramechhap Airport, about a 6-hour drive from Kathmandu (150 km). Options are to drive at night and catch the early morning flight to Lukla, or to stay a night in a basic to mid-range hotel in Ramechhap. Another option (which we recommend) is to book a shared helicopter from Kathmandu to Lukla and/or Lukla to Kathmandu, an additional $325 each way (5 passengers per helicopter).

Day 4 – Trek Namche Bazaar 3465m/11,365′ (Moonlight Lodge)
After a short walk past Monjo School with Khumbila Peak (or Khumbu Yul La) looming majestically ahead of us, we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Descending steeply on a stony trail to the river, we cross a long suspension bridge to reach the hamlet of Jorsale, and then cross one more long bridge before taking the lower trail that follows the sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded river rocks. We trek for about 45 minutes to reach the long, iconic suspension bridge.

Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer flags to hang on the bridge over the confluence of the Dudh Kosi (‘milk river’) and the Bhote Kosi (‘river from Tibet’) and send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep 1½ hour climb to Namche on a dusty, rocky, switch-backing trail is broken halfway up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Local women sell delicious oranges at this resting point, which we’ll share for sure with other trekkers. Another 45 minutes of climbing, mostly off the main trail amongst the evergreens, and we arrive at the old trading village of Namche Bazaar, now a thriving trekking metropolis. We’ll have a short tour of the shopping and bakeries in Namche before heading up steep stone steps to our guest house, Natang and Pemba’s idyllic Moonlight Lodge (now run by their son Nima), scenically situated at the top of Namche (and with great showers!).

Namche Bazaar, once called Nauje and now the most prosperous trading village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater surrounded by mountains. From Namche we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front of us, Kangtega, Thamserku and Kusum Khangkuru to the east and Khumbila to the back. Down-valley the hills and valleys along the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of steely-grey and blues.

If we arrive on Thursday or Friday, we’ll catch the earlier part of the famous Namche Saturday Market. Otherwise, we’ll head up to Moonlight Lodge for a sunny lunch. The rest of the day is free to relax and explore the crowded main streets of Namche, and enjoy any of these options. The Sherpa Cultural Center (a wonderful photographic museum), the reconstructed traditional Sherpa house (next door), the very interesting Namche Gompa Visitors Center at Namche Gompa (and the monastery itself), and the newly re-opened Tenzin Norgay Cultural Center at the National Park Headquarters. From this last cultural center at sunrise and sunset, there are great views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, Amadablam, Thamserku and the pink and orange hues down valley. Indulge yourself at one of the many bakeries (we love Sherpa Barista), shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. There is a Sherpa Adventure Gear shop run by our friend Zangbu, with a great variety of real trek gear if you find that you’re missing warm clothes; and often with gear on sale! Watch out for dzobkios and shaggy Himalayan cows wandering the narrow streets …

We recommend a sunset hike to the newly renovated Tenzin Norgay Cultural Center. Moonlight Lodge has a great hot shower, a large library, beer and wine in the cabinet, and delicious home-cooked food so there is really no reason to leave at all if you’re feeling lethargic, or enjoying basking in the sunny dining room. (3½-4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.5km

Day 5 – Namche Bazaar (Acclimatization Day) | Everest Viewpoint Hike, Sagarmatha Next Cultural Center. Sunrise & Sunset Panoramas, Museums, Cultural Centers & Namche Monastery 
If it’s the Saturday Market (which starts on Thursday or Friday), we’ll spend the morning exploring the bustling market, a feast of colors, smells, and colorfully clad Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly event. It’s as much a social gathering as the produce, meat, and essential goods market, so the atmosphere is spirited and lively, a great photographic opportunity. The Tibetans used to encamp in the center of town in a muddy bazaar (potato fields in the summer) touting their goods from China.

We recommend a fabulous hike for Everest and Himalayan views from about an hour above the lodge, with a beautiful cultural loop to return back to Namche. Climbing steeply, we’ll switchback straight up the ridge from right above the huge mani stone at the top of Namche’s stone steps. Continuing just past Syangboche Airstrip, we turn right and hike up to one of several viewpoints. The hike is definitely worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Khangkuru, Tarboche and Ama Dablam! Satiated, we’ll visit the incredible Sagarmatha Next center (see below) and hike back to Namche via the lovely hamlet of Zarok, the Kumbila mural, the Guru Rimpoche mural and arrive back at Moonlight Lodge taking the route just above town, in time for lunch.

Later in the afternoon, you might spot yaks or dzos wandering into the backyard of the Moonlight Lodge. These will be ours, with our yak drivers Pasang, Mingma and/or Pemba, and will accompany us for the rest of the trek. For some peak-spotting at sunset (or sunrise tomorrow morning), hike up 15 minutes from the lodge, and take a right at the sign to the Museum and National Park headquarters. (4 hrs) (B, L, D) 

SAGARMATHA NEXT | This innovative center, finished in 2021, is situated just below the Everest viewpoints, definitely a must-visit when in the Khumbu. There is a wonderful short introductory video, an art gallery, an outdoor sculpture gallery, a shop, a café, an information center and an interactive Everest climb experience.

“Sagarmatha Next strives to promote sustainable tourism in the Khumbu region. Our aim is to change the perception around waste and provide support to the local stakeholders of the region, by bringing innovative and sustainable solutions for solid waste management. All profits generated will be reinvested in improving the waste management in the Khumbu region. Being home to the world’s highest mountain, the Khumbu region receives an ever-growing flow of visitors from across the globe. While this has brought socio-economic development in the area, it has also put a lot of pressure on biodiversity and the region delicate ecosystem during the last few decades.

Stepping into the Visitors Centre, you will be transported into a world-class museum: with new technology and great storytelling. We need a new way to interpret the world around us; a world where we are not thrusted with opinions but allowed to interpret and decide for ourselves. Sagarmatha National Park attracts visitors from all over the world and it is the ideal place to start a new movement. A movement where we understand the importance of local, a movement where we are aware of our actions, a movement where we know our environmental footprint, a movement where we are conscious and take every action in a mindful manner. At the Visitors Centre, you will find information about Sagarmatha National Park and the Khumbu region including history, geography, culture, climbing and trekking, Flora & Fauna, as well as the environmental challenges that we are facing and possible solutions.”

Day 6 – Trek Khunde 3855m/12,638′ (Khunde Guest House) | Afternoon Hike Hillary Memorial & Gong Ri 4050m
Kim and Lhakpa will lead a scenic and cultural high trek to the twin ‘green’ valleys of Khunde and Khumjung, with more breathtaking Everest views en route, finishing the hike in Khunde at Doma Tseri’s Khunde Guest House. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light, we hike up to the large mani stone, turning right around the rock and switchbacking up the hill, stopping at the prayer flag-covered rock along the way. We head for the Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the airstrip at Syangboche en route. On the ridge above the airstrip, we climb gradually on tundra to a large, whitewashed chorten to the left of the yak-breeding center. From here, we climb briefly on stone steps to a small hill topped with chulung (memorial chortens) for fabulous views of Kumbila, Taboche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtega, Kusum Khangkuru, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse (we might have done a similar viewpoint hike yesterday morning, but there are lots of options). Continuing to the left of the yak breeding center, we hike through a magical landscape of protruding rocks, ancient, weather-worn mani stones, whitewashed chortens and rhododendrons. We may spot Himalayan thar grazing on the hillsides, and possibly iridescent danphe and chortling chukars. Finally, a small climb and descent on more stone steps to reach the entrance (kane) chorten of Khunde. Having cleansed ourselves, we hike past an ancient, long mani wall, past a newly reconstructed white-washed stupa with Buddha eyes, and past the small, beautiful Khunde Mani Lhakang, and afterwards past the Hillary Hospital where Lhakpa’s uncle Dr Kami Sherpa is the head doctor, to our lodge for the night. 

The adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages of the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old and wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks, potato patches and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak surrounded by lhaso (shrines to mountain deities), above a famous rock mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam from this valley are breathtaking, and very close!

At Khunde Guest House, we enjoy a delicious Sherpa lunch in the sunroom, including their famous Sherpa chili sauce. The lodge has expansive mountain views from the warm, glass-windowed dining room. After dropping extra gear in our lodge rooms, we’ll head out for a great hike up to the Hillary Memorial and possibly a bit further to Gong Ri viewpoint, and then return to the lodge via the Khunde Monastery, happily tired and ready for a home-cooked Sherpa meal back in the dining room for sunset.

HILLARY MEMORIAL & GONG RI AFTERNOON HIKE | The side trip to Hillary Memorial (4050m), land the prayer-flag covered peak just above, locally referred to as Gong Ri, is a relatively easy hike (approximately 45-minutes) along a gradually ascending trail through a hillside lightly wooded with fir and juniper above Khunde Monastery. Just before reaching the monastery, take the intersecting trail heading left to a scenic ridge with a nearly 360-degree view of Himalayan peaks. The dramatic ridge top setting was dedicated as a memorial to Edmund Hillary’s wife, Louise, and his 16-year-old daughter, Belinda, who died tragically in a plane crash just outside of Kathmandu in 1975. The plane was heading to Phaplu Airstrip. Just above the memorial chortens to Louise and Belinda Hillary is a chorten built by local Khunde inhabitants to honor Sir Edmund Hillary. Turn left at the ridge for a lovely viewpoint rest stop, and right to reach the Hillary Memorials and continue up to Gong Ri, about 100m higher.

Views from the memorial include Everest, Lhotse, Nupte, Tabuche, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Kusum Kangkaru, Kwongde and Pharchamo, as well as the twin villages of Khunde and Khumjung just below Khunde Gompa, Shyangboche, Namche and Monjo down the valley, and Tengboche and Pangboche to the north. From the ridge, look to the west to the Thame valley leading to the Nangpa La, once an important Tibetan trade route. The narrow valley before the Thame valley is rumored to be the home of several yetis. Returning, we can stop at Khunde Monastery for a visit; the gonpa monks often perform afternoon pujas, otherworldly as the afternoon clouds fill the Himalayan valley … (4+ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.4km

RETURN TO NAMCHE HIKE | IF returning to Namche for any reason, you can descend from the memorial along the same trail, or head straight down the ridge towards Shyangboche, cutting back towards Khunde to meet the main trail back to Namche as well as the trail leading west towards Thame. You can bushwhack your way directly down to Namche but it takes some work, and the trails are only for woodcutters or musk deer. On the plus side, you’ll encounter the many colorful Danphe en route!

LOW ROUTE TO KYANGJUMA | If someone opts to spend the night in Namche instead of Khunde, you’ll take this route for the first 2 hours). Stay high, contouring around several hillsides far above the Dudh Kosi and stopping for views of Everest and Lhotse at the two whitewashed chortens. (The first chorten is a newer memorial to Tenzin Norgay). Two hours after leaving Namche we reach Tashi and Lhakpa’s Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. They have a delicious bakery if you want to pick up a treat! Continuing along the main trail through a lovely rhododendron forest, we take a sharp left at the intersecting trail leading to Gokyo and ascend the steep trail up to the bridge which intersects the old trail from Khumjung. 

Day 7 – Trek Khumjung & Phortse 3780m/12,398′ (Phortse Guest House) | via Mong La 4000m/13,120”
Leaving Khunde, we trek down the valley leading to the adjoining village of Khumjung (3800m), hiking along old trails lined by lichen-covered stone walls, past traditional Sherpa houses and ancient, moss-covered mani stones towards the end of the plateau. Ama Dablam looms majestically (and photographically) ahead as we explore these cultural Sherpa villages. Along the flanks of sacred Khumbila, we pass ‘chu lung’, or memorial chortens, and ‘lhaso’, or square chortens with sticks and prayer flags, edifices constructed for the local gods of the Khumbu. We will also see ‘kar sur’, which are square edifices for the gods in the middle of local fields. ‘Lhasa’ are the smaller edifices in front of Sherpa houses and lodges, ‘deity houses’ where incense is burned in offering every morning.

Descending into Khumjung (the Green Valley), we’ll see the long, beautiful mani wall and the Khumjung Secondary School below, established by Hillary in the 1970s. We contour through ancient rock walls through the lower half of the village to Khumjung Gompa, one of the oldest in the Khumbu (approximately 500 years) and home to one of two existing Yeti scalps on the planet (the other being in Pangboche). Taking the left fork, our trail intersects the trail from Namche at a metal bridge that spans a gap in the trail. From here we climb up stone steps, and stop for a rest at the top of the impressive new series of stone and cement steps with railings. Along the way, we are likely to see wildlife such as Himalayan Thar and the spectacularly hued danphe, Nepal’s national bird. Continuing to climb gradually on a sandy trail for another hour or so, we reach Mong La, where we stop for a scenic lunch at Boudha Lodge, perched spectacularly on this (nearly) 4000m ridge pass. Across the valley sits Tengboche Gompa, backed by Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru, its gilded rooftops glittering in the afternoon sun.

Leaving Mong La, we round the ancient mani wall and whitewashed chorten, and descend through pine and rhododendron forests on a sandy, switchbacking trail, with stone steps hugging the cliffside on the lower half, to reach Phortse Tenga. The trail is being reconstructed, and there are wonderful views of Phortse backed by Tarboche and Amadablam along the way. Just past the lodges and ancient, mossy mani walls, hiking through woods of birch, we cross the river on a steel bridge and start the short but steep climb up to Phortse, one of the oldest villages of the Khumbu region. Keep your eyes open as there are many musk deer, danphe, and blood pheasants hiding in the rhododendron and Spanish moss forests bordering the trail and the village. The danphe dig for potatoes in the lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings, near the ancient chorten at the end of the fields and just below the village volleyball court. At the top of the village is Phortse Gonpa, funded by ‘Papa Tony’ who also funded the village’s hydro-electric power many years ago, and on the eastern side is a new NCell tower.

We stay at Phortse Guest House, which has a wonderful dining room and great views, owned by Ba Nuru and his wife Pasang but now run by nephew Mingma (Ba Nuru and Pasang, a relative of Lhakpa, are now both working in the US). Ba Nuru is a many-time Everest climber and one of the main participants in the Phortse Climbing School, founded by Conrad Anker and his wife Jenny. The impressive new Phortse Climbing Center, with a medical post and climbing wall, is right in back of the lodge. (6½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.2km

Day 8 – Trek Pangboche 3900m/12,792′ (Sonam Lodge) | via Tarboche High Route
Leaving Phortse on the northeastern side, we start the morning with a 20-minute climb to the small chorten which marks the top of the ridge, we look across the Imja Khola towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river gorge. Our trail, now rebuilt and quite wide, skirts the high ridges of Taboche, with fantastic views around every corner and more Himalayan thar grazing along the steep hillsides. Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is close enough to touch to the east and Kwongde, Kangtega and Thamserku grace the valley below us. After an hour or so of scenic hiking on this dramatic trail, we climb a few hundred meters to the small pass (4080m), a great spot for some photos with Amadablam. From here, we descend, with a few undulations and stone staircases, towards Upper Pangboche. Another hour or so later we reach the intersections of Upper  and Lower Pangboche and take the left fork, passing a unique, ancient whitewashed chorten on the lower trail. We’ll wander the old alley, passing traditional Sherpa houses, to reach Pangboche Gompa, approximately 500 years old, one of the four oldest gompas (monasteries) in the Khumbu.

We’ll have time to visit this interesting and often lively Nyingmapa monastery (and view its own yeti scalp and claw) before heading to our lodge for lunch. Contouring above Lower Pangboche, we trek to the left of an ancient mani wall and contour above the newer lodges before dropping down to our lodge at the end of Lower Pangboche. Pangboche, which means ‘yak (short, dry) grass’, is a lovely village with views across the Imja Khola to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp, the old airstrip at Mingbo and Ama Dablam.

We stay at Sonam Lodge, the last in the village, owned by Lhakpa’s (ex) brother-in-law, Gyurme, his wife Yangi, and their daughter Tseyang Zangmu. Gyurme is one of the many lodge owners who has summited Everest and Ama Dablam many times. From the three-sided windows of the dining room, we will be treated to a magnificent sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. We’ll have a leisurely, generally sunny lunch at the Sonam Lodge after our spectacular morning hike. Enjoy the afternoon resting at the lodge, or take a hike through the trekking shops of Lower Pangboche or up to a strip of memorial chortens on the high trail from Upper Pangboche. We built a memorial chorten to Joel Schone, one of the partners of Project Himalaya (Kim first worked with Joel in 2001), at this beautiful and peaceful spot overlooking Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Amadablam. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6km

Day 9 – Pangboche | Day Hike Amadablam Base Camp 4580m/15,040′ (Sonam Lodge & Amadablam Support Lodge)
We’ve scheduled an acclimatization day in Pangboche, a highlight of our Everest trek featuring an amazing hike up the Mingbo valley to Ama Dablam Upper & Lower Base Camps (4580m & 4535m). Lhakpa’s sister-in-law (Doma’s younger sister) Nyima Lhamo and husband Lhakpa own the Amadablam Support Lodge at the lower base camp, strung with colorful prayer-flag and popular with Ama Dablam climbers. This beautiful valley is still used as a yak herding seasonal settlement.

After descending to the river on the trail just beyond the lodge and crossing on a small bridge, we have a short, steep climb up the hillside in front to the plateau, above which are several doksas (kharkas, or summer settlements). We climb again steeply on a spiderweb of trails, ascending the hillside to reach the eroded side of the riverbed. We cross a sandy section of trail and continue to climb along a rocky, ridgeline trail following the glacial stream bed to eventually reach lively, colorful Ama Dablam Base Camp, dominated by Ama Dablam shining brightly in the afternoon sun. The views throughout the day are sublime, especially Pumori and Taboche, which tower above to the east. We’ll visit the higher base camp first, ablaze with yellow and orange tents, and perhaps get to watch climbers ascending the snowy summit before descending to Nima Lhamo’s lodge for a delicious Sherpa lunch in the sun. The descent back to Pangboche is much quicker, and we’ll be back at the lodge by mid-afternoon, with time for a shower or warm washing water. (6½ hrs r/t) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8km

Day 10 – Trek Dingboche 4300m/14,015′ (Snow Lion Guest House)
A short trekking day as we’re gaining altitude. Enjoy the beautiful walk to Dingboche, which translates as ‘flat place’, a village which is renowned for the best barley in the Khumbu. Sherpa folklore says that the original seeds were carried from Tibet by a chough …

Leaving Pangboche, we trek above the Imja Khola along a rocky trail to the hamlet of Somare, and continue along wide yak trails past the one lodge of Orsho. We trek past mani stones, and pass the intersection to Pheriche (home of the Himalayan Rescue Association Health Post) on our left. Just past this intersection and a small stone hut, we descend to the intersecting Chola Khola which we cross on a small, wooden bridge to reach the relatively steep scree hillside leading to Dingboche. Dingboche is another old Sherpa village, a semi-permanent settlement whose inhabitants also have homes in Pangboche and traditionally would stay in nearby kharkas during the summer, keeping their livestock away from their precious barley crops.

The lower half of Dingboche is a line of trekking lodges interspersed with a few local shops and internet cafes, while the upper half is still local Sherpa dwellings, fields, rock walls and yak enclosures, reminiscent of Sherpa villages of yore. Three whitewashed chortens with Buddha eyes lead up the ridge to the peak called Dolma Ri, topped with prayer flags. Look on top of the peak for the eagle, or ‘lak’, perched there. Above, nestled in the hillside, is an old Buddhist hermitage called Nangar Dzong, the summer meditation place of Lama Sangwa Dorje. We stay at the bottom of Dingboche, at Mingma’s Snow Lion Guest House, and enjoy the afternoon at the bakery in the sun, where movies are shown at 2 every afternoon. Mingma makes the most amazing seabuckthorne jam (and sometimes juice which you can purchase from the bakery) which she serves with toast and Tibetan bread breakfast orders.

A great afternoon altitude excursion is a walk to the Buddha-eyed chortens, continuing up the Dolma La ridge to one of several prayer flags marked resting spots, featuring great views of Makalu. After a rest at the round rock with prayer flags (about 4700m) radiating from the top, take the trail to the upper and lower hermitages, finally descending on steep switchbacks to upper Dingboche. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.3km

Day 11 – Trek Chhukhung 4750m/15,580′ (Chhukung Resort)
This morning, as the sun hits the lodge, we head up to Chhukhung for a few days of spectacular mountain views! The trail passes to the left of the old houses and barley and potato fields of Dingboche, and then ascends gradually along the grassy left bank of the boulder-strewn Imja Kola with seabuckthorne bushes lining the trail. We trek past several large mani stones and pass below Bibre above on a ridge, a seasonal herding village. Just past a single house-teashop we cross a small bridge and make the short, final ascent to Chhukhung, nestled under Ama Dablam, Lhotse, the Nuptse wall, Peak 38, Kang Lemu and Island peak, to name just a few of the peaks that make this such a superb setting. We spend two idyllic days at the large Chhukhung Resort, owned by Chindi and Mingma Sherpa, a lovely lodge with new, sunny rooms, a sunroom, a great dining room, and a heat-generating slate deck, perfect for peak-gazing in the afternoon. Sunsets are sublime, enjoy just outside the lodge.

After lunch at the lodge, we’ll have a casual wander up the glacial valley along the undulating glacial moraines, heading in the direction of Island Peak Base Camp (which is a 3½ hour journey up, 2 hours back); the views up and down the valley are great, and the short hike makes for a perfect Himalayan afternoon. (3 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5km

Day 12 – Chhukhung | Climb Chhukhung Ri 5565m/18,253′
The Chhukung valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in the Khumbu region. We’ll take advantage of our free day to climb Chhukhung Ri, a climbing peak with two peaks on either side of the saddle, the higher at 5565m and the lower at 5415m, a climb of 2 – 2½ hours to the saddle.

Leaving the lodge at Chhukung, we hike above the hamlet and cross the icy stream on stones and then a small bridge, and then have about 250 meters of undulating ascent on a good trail to the plateau, our first rest stop. From here, you can hike up the small hill just beside us to approximately 5000 meters, and have a great Himalayan panorama, which includes Makalu, without having to climb the entire peak. The rocks in this idyllic valley are mostly leucogranites, gneiss, and a bit of shist (which the warm, reflective lodge decks are constructed of).

The climb up Chhukung Ri becomes even steeper from this plateau, quite unrelenting but incredibly beautiful all the way until reaching the saddle. From the saddle (5390m), the views of Makalu in front and Nuptse to the back are awesome, and we peer down the backside of the saddle to Cho Oyu and the peaks bordering the Gokyo Lakes. The north summit is another 45 minutes on loose scree, slightly exposed, while the south summit is an easy 10 minutes from the saddle, fluttering with Himalayan prayer flags and cairns. (4 – 5½ hrs r/t) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.5km

Day 13 – Trek Lobuche 4935m/16,186m | Cross Kongma La Pass 5540m/18171m & Khumbu Glacier (Optional) (Eco Lodge)
The group has two options for today’s trek; descending to Dingboche, traversing to Thugla and then climbing to Lobuche, or crossing the Kongma La and the Khumbu Glacier to reach Lobuche. Both options are described below, and generally, we split the group as most people won’t be acclimatized for the high, challenging pass route to Lobuche just yet.

KONGMA LA OPTION | The Kongma La (Tibetan Snowcock) pass takes only an hour or so more than the route via Thugla (including stopping for lunch), and is very do-able if we’re strong and have slept two nights at Chhukhung. Leaving the lodge at Chhukung out the back door, we immediately cross the icy stream on a small bridge and head west on a small, rocky trail, contouring around glacial slides and grassy hillsides as we gain altitude. The hiking isn’t very steep until we reach Pokalden Base Camp, from where we begin to climb more steeply, passing another Base Camp. We’ll stop for a long rest and refueling before our first steep climb up to the first group of mountain lakes, from where we climb a small hill to reach the larger, clear Kongma Tso (lake). The Himalayan views behind are truly breathtaking. A short respite before the last steep but short climb to the prayer-flag festooned pass, where we’ll enjoy epic Himalayan views in both directions. Reaching the pass generally takes 4 – 4½ hours from Chhukung.

Descending from the pass, we begin with a steep descent on loose scree and rocks, hard on the knees and sometimes icy, finally reaching the green valley bottom only to climb back up the eastern lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Crossing the glacier is an otherworldly experience as we trek past groaning glacial ponds and sliding rocks and scree, again a tough series of climbs and descents on the uneven glacier, the first two-thirds of the glacier always on a new trail. The new trail (as of 2023) goes below the new glacial lake, and takes about 30-45 minutes longer than the old trail). Finally, we crest the top of the western lateral moraine, with an easy descent to Lobuche. We stay at Eco Lodge (if it’s not too full) at the top end of Lobuche, run by the lovely Lhakpa Kanchi Sherpa, where the delicious pizzas and chicken curry make a nice change from dal baht! (8-9 hrs) 

MEMORIAL VIEWPOINT OPTION | After returning back down the Chhukung Valley to Dingboche, we crest the chorten-topped ridge and continue another three hours further, looking down on the trail to the Cho La Pass and Dzongla. Walking along the flat, grassy plateau, we pass the summer ‘doksa’, or yak-herding settlement, of Dusa before heading down to the stony river coming from the Khumbu Valley, and crossing it on a small bridge. A quick five minutes up the hill and we arrive at Thugla and Tsering Lhakpa’s Yak Lodge, probably the most genuine alpine lodge in the Khumbu. It was worth a trek up to Thugla just to meet Tsering, who often took out his Tibetan ‘damnye’ to play some traditional Tibetan songs. We’ll have lunch at Thugla with his son Kunga, who now runs the lodge, before continuing up the hill.

From Thugla, hike straight up the steep, yak-trodden trail to the memorials to the many climbers who have died attempting one of the many peaks in the area (including Babu Chiri and Scott Fischer’s). The Sherpas call this place Chukpi Lhare, meaning ‘wealthy persons’ kharka’. Check the mountain views behind you when you reach the memorial crest, they’re spectacular. Next, we head up-valley towards Lobuche, where we stay the night at the Eco Lodge. The views from the edge of the glacier down-valley are superb, almost more so as the clouds move up the valley, so don’t miss an afternoon walk up to the ridge with your camera. At Lobuche, almost 5000 meters, it is especially important to take it easy, stay hydrated and get plenty of rest. (7½ – 8½ hrs)

TREK NOTE | Kim and Lhakpa will decide if we will attempt the Kongma La, and who is acclimatized and strong enough to cross the pass. We will generally trek in two groups, all meeting at the Eco Lodge in Lobuche. Great routes either way …

Distance (Low Route): 9.4km
Distance (Kongma La Route):

Day 14 – Trek Gorak Shep 5180m/16,990′ | Climb Kala Pattar Peak 5645m/18,516′ (Himalayan Lodge)
We leave Lobuche early-ish, trekking up a rocky yak trail on the left side of the Khumbu Glacier heading towards Gorak Shep, a walk of 2½ – 3 hours. The hike isn’t difficult, but there are a few hills to crest, more memorials along the way, and you should feel the altitude. The last stretch of the trail snakes up and down glacial scree, and just before Gorak Shep we get a view of Everest, the Khumbu Icefall and Everest Base Camp. Gorak Shep, with Kala Pattar just to the left, is a welcome sight; the Himalayan Lodge, owned by Ang Tsering, and now run by his son Pasang and his wife Kalzang, has expanded; the rooms are fine, the toilets are inside and the dining room is lively, often very busy. The food is even good, quite a feat at 5180 meters, many days walk from the markets. Ok, so it’s not my favorite of lodges (the others at Gorak Shep are the same), but we make due for a night to have the chance to hike to Everest Base Camp and climb Kala Pattar.

To the east of Gorak Shep, Nuptse looms magnificently above us, now a triangular rock face that turns pink with the evening light. We suggest trying the climb of Kala Pattar peak after a quick (early) lunch, but if your priority is to visit Everest Base Camp, discuss with Kim, Lhakpa or your guide and perhaps do this today, saving Kala Pattar for tomorrow morning. (3 hrs + 3-4 hrs (Kala Pattar) r/t) (B, L, D)

KALA PATTAR | Leaving the lodge, cross the sandy once-lake bottom and begin on the first section of the steep, 2-hour climb. About half way up, there is a good resting point, from where you can see almost all of what you can see from the top of the peak. The steep switchbacks continue, and after about 1½ – 2 hours you reach the saddle, from where you can look down on the majestic mess of glaciers below. One more small climb to the rocky, prayer-flag strewn summit, actually a spur from Pumori, and you are rewarded with epic Himalayan views including Everest, Lhotse (the tip), Nuptse, Amadablam, and Kangtega to the south and Lhola Peak, Changtse, Khumbutse, Lingtren, Pumori and Chumbu. Changtse is fully in Tibet, and the others for the most part form the border of Nepal and Tibet. Descending is much faster than the ascent of Kala Pattar, and hot drinks are waiting back at the lodge.
Distance: 8km

Day 15 – Trek Lobuche 4935m/16,186′ | Day Hike Everest Base Camp 5365m/17,597m (Eco Lodge)
The morning is set aside for our hike to Everest Base Camp, though if you didn’t climb yesterday, you can climb the 5645m Kala Pattar in the morning. Rob Hall’s memorial makes a nice side-trip up the valley if you’re short on energy. Or you can opt to head back to Lobuche early, and skip the morning’s excursion. After EBC or Kala Pattar, back at the Himalayan Lodge, lunch awaits before heading back down the glacial valley to Eco Lodge. There’s a beautiful (optional) high route leading to the Pyramid Research Center and lodge which doesn’t take much extra time. Private groups might opt to stay at The Pyramid instead of Eco Lodge. (3½ – 4 hrs r/t + 2 hrs Lobuche) (B, L, D)

EVEREST BASE CAMP HIKE | You have the morning hike to Everest Base Camp, a 3½ – 4 hour round-trip hike along the glacial ridge leading to the Khumbu icefall, descending right onto the glacier. At Base Camp, a short walk through the glacier, there is a large rock strung with 5-colored prayer flags and an Everest Base Camp sign which looks out at the Khumbu Ice Fall, a perfect spot for photos. Be careful of small rockfalls on the stretch descending to the glacier or ascending back to the trail. The glacier is rapidly thinning and destabilizing due to climate change; we used to explore the ice pillars to the right of the glacier, but they’ve melted away …

During the April 25, 2025 7.8 Nepal Earthquake, the Nepal Everest Base Camp (there is also one in Tibet, a bit higher) was hit by an avalanche from Pumori that descended on the base camp, killing about 20 people. In 1953, when Hillary and Tenzin Norgay, part of the British team, become the first climbers to summit Everest, the base camp was on a moraine perched on solid ice, and the trek up to EBC took over 2 months. The team trekked with hundreds of heavily laden porters, covering 300+ km to reach Everest Base Camp, starting in the steamy forests bordering Kathmandu, and heading up into the Khumbu via Jiri and Phaplu.
Distance: 13.3km

Day 16 – Trek Dzongla 4830m/15,842′ (Dzongla Inn)
We can sleep in a bit this morning as the sun hits the lodge at 7:45 am, and we have a short day to Dzongla, a small ‘kharka’ of 4 or 5 lodges a few hours below the Cho La pass. Once past Lobuche, we trek south on the main trail and after about 20 minutes, fork off to the right (east). We cross a small floodplain river on small river rocks and climb gradually, contouring as we head south. At the confluence of the Chola stream and the stream coming from the Khumbu glacier, we are treated to magnificent views in all directions, the featured peaks being Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Pumori. We turn to the right and head up the Dzongla valley, past the opaque, turquoise Cho La Lake on our left, followed by Lobuche East Base Camp in the green valley to our right. Another steep switchbacking climb and we reach a trail in the middle (or up higher) on the hillside, from where we can see the small lodges of Dzongla. A small descent brings us to a small open area with large glacial rocks, and just afterwards we cross the stream coming from the Khumbu glacier on a small bridge, and climb steeply for 10 minutes to Dzongla.

We stay at Doma’s brother Ang Nuru and wife Maya’s Dzongla Inn, which has a warm, sunny dining room and rooms. From Dzongla, we’ll have a scenic lunch as we gaze up at the sheer wall of Cholatse and get ready for the morning crossing of Cho La pass tomorrow (micro spikes). Don’t miss the pink and burnt orange sunset over Ama Dablam from just outside the lodge, it’s sublime. (3 – 3½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 6.3km

Day 17 – Trek Tangnak 4690m/15,383′ | Cross Cho La Pass 5370m/17,613′ (Cho La Resort)
A slightly early start (but with the sun) for our crossing of the Cho La pass, a rocky climb followed by a glacier crossing. Leaving Dzongla, we take the lower trail below the prayer flags to reach a glacial stream, which we cross a few times on rocks protruding from the ice. We continue through this glacial valley, stopping at some large rocks to adjust clothes as the sun warms the valley, and soon afterwards turn right and climb on a new trail, constructed just after 2020. Lobuche West rises above us as we ascend the right side of the stream coming from the glaciers above, running down through iron-stained rocks. We continue to ascend until we reach the bottom right of the glacier, which is a much easier crossing than the old one, and requires microspikes. The ascent of the Chola glacier is exciting and stunningly beautiful as we trek across the ice (and a bit of snow), and we soon reach the gaping and usually frozen crevasse (lake) just below the pass, these days barely visible. Taking off our microspikes, we have a short section of rock to maneuver, made easier by wire cable bolted into the rock. At the Cho La pass, after a 3-hour climb, we’ll hang our Buddhist prayer flags and send prayers out across the Himalaya.

From the top of Cho La pass, we’re treated to views of Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Tarboche, Cholatse and Baruntse on the Khumbu side, and of Nangpai Gosain, Pasang Lhamo, Numbur and on the Gokyo side. After a snack on the pass, we follow the wire cable back down the other side of the pass, a jumble of large rocks, often a scramble on stone steps and sandy trail, steep for the first half hour of the descent. There is a small flatish section which passes under another large scree slope, and once we’re clear of this we’ll stop for a break. At the bottom of this stretch, we still have to negotiate a rocky, undulating trail, rock hopping, and then descending steeply to the first valley which leads to the settlement of Nga heading south (not our route).

Continuing on, we pass a spring and ascend another grassy ridge, descend into a second valley, climb to the last ridge and begin the long, rocky descent to the kharka of Tangnak, where Lhakpa Nuru and his wife Nagwang Doma runs their wonderful lodge, the Cho La Resort. Chilled beers are available to celebrate the Cho La pass crossing, there is a warm shower room, and the dining room (with wifi) is one of the nicest in the Khumbu. Relax, sit by the fire and enjoy this luxurious mountain experience! (6½ – 7 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8km

Day 18 – Trek Gokyo 4790m/15,711′ (Cho Oyu View Lodge) | Cross Ngozumpa Glacier
Leaving our warm lodge, we start the morning by hiking gently on a beautiful trail on the east side of the Ngozumpa Glacier, the longest glacier in Nepal. After about half an hour we hike up the lateral moraine and descend into the glacier. We hike northwest on a circuitous trail through the ever-receding glacier, with Cho Oyu rising magnificently to the north, hiking past small glacial lakes, fallen rocks and debris, exposing the ice below. We continue to cross the glacier on a sandy, boulder-strewn trail, the frozen lakes creaking as we snake our way to the other side.

Climbing up the opposite lateral moraine, we crest a small hill before looking down to the expanding seasonal ‘trekking village’ (once just a kharka) of Gokyo, built beside the third, and biggest lake, in a grassy ablation valley running beside the Ngozumpa Glacier. The opaque powder-blue lakes are often on the verge of freezing over, and sometimes perform a Himalayan symphony of expanding and retracting ice. Gokyo has become something of a Himalayan resort without the crowd – at least in terms of the comfortable lodges with sunrooms, unbeatable views, excellent food and warm stoves. A more spectacular setting is difficult to imagine, and our guesthouse, the Cho Oyu View Lodge, perfectly situated on the lakeside, is a little piece of heaven. Dali Sherpa, our host, is a good friend, and with her two kids, Tenzin and Ang Tashi, has now expanded and improved their little lakeside lodge. (2½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 3.7km, Elevation Gain: 171m, Elevation Loss: 101m

GOKYO RI CLIMB | For those with energy left over after the pass and glacier crossing, we’ll have an early lunch and then climb Gokyo Ri (5360m) for wonderful Everest and Himalayan peak views and spectacular views of the Gokyo Lakes, Ngozumba Glacier, the glacial valley. The Himalayan peak panorama includes Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Cholatse, Tarboche, Thamserku, Gyachen Kang + more. The views are fantastic in the morning, the middle of the day, or for sunset, but don’t forget to bring a torch if you opt for ‘sunset on Everest’ views, which in our opinion is better than the sunrise view when the sun rises behind the Himalayan peaks. To the west is the Renjo La (4515m) pass, tomorrow’s goal, and the gateway to the Thame Valley and the Nangpa La, which the Tibetans cross with their yaks en route to Namche. (3-4 hrs r/t)

GOKYO LAKE KORA | An hour+ Buddhist ‘kora’ hike around Gokyo Lake, passing the beach and Buddhist and Hindu ‘temples’ on the opposite side, stopping at the sandy beach across from the lodges, watching the Ruddy Shelducks and other birdlife. (1½ hrs)
Distance Gokyo Ri Climb: 3.8km

Day 19 – Gokyo | Climb Gokyo Ri 5360m/17,580′ (Cho Oyu View Lodge)
A free day in Gokyo, with lots to do in this incredibly scenic valley. If you didn’t get up Gokyo Ri yesterday, you have another chance today to climb to the colorful top of the peak and enjoy the Himalayan views. Or opt to grab a chair and just sit by the rocky lakeside and relax. You ARE on vacation, and it’s an amazing location on the shores of the Himalayan Gokyo Lake! (B, L, D) 

FIFTH LAKE & SCOUNDREL’S VIEW HIKE | A beautiful day hike heading north up the Gokyo valley, past the glacial Fourth Lake (Thanak Tsho), heading towards the Fifth Lake (Ngozumba Tsho) and the snowy massif of Cho Oyu on the border of Tibet. There are several trails that snake up this valley, one emerging on the ridge overlooking the Ngozumpa Glacier, another passing right next to the eerily deserted fourth lake with its white, stony beach. All trails have views of Everest and the Himalayan range, so the hike is never dull! The unobstructed view of Everest from Scoundrel’s Point (4995m) is a great reward for the walk, about a 13 km round trip journey from Gokyo and about 2½ hours from Gokyo. (5-6 hrs r/t)

SUNSET MORAINE VIEWS | Don’t miss a quick hike up the moraine ridge in the back of the village for glorious sunset colors on Cho Oyu, the skies turning golden and pink down the valley towards Cholatse, Tarboche and Thamserku. (½ hr)

Day 20 – Trek Lungden 4375m | Cross Renjo La Pass 5415m/17,760′ (Renjo Support Lodge)
Another early Himalayan start as we head west of Gokyo lake (taking the upper trail) towards the Renjo La pass. The trail switchbacks very steeply up a sandy ridge, crosses an often-frozen stream, and continues along finally skirting the dramatic rock face below the pass to the top, a climb of over four hours, with Makalu and Everest looming ever larger on the horizon. The trail has recently been improved to accommodate yaks, and the views from the top are some of the best in all of the Himalayas, with a long and impressive panorama of 7000 + 8000-meter peaks, Gokyo Lake below, and colorful prayer flags sending out prayers in at the windy summit.

After some lunch and photos on top of the Renjo La, we begin the even steeper descent (trekking poles recommended, and possible micro-spikes) down large stone slab steps, often icy, to the lake below. Continuing past several small yak kharkas, the twin Renjo Lakes and an old lake bed with intertwined streams sparkling in the sun, we reach a small, sandy kharka surrounded by old rock walls. From here we begin a steep descent to the season settlement of Lungden in the Thame valley. We stay at the newly renovated Renjo Support Lodge, owned by Ngawang Sangay and his wife Pasi (often Pasi’s sister Sani is also working at the lodge). Ngawang Sangay divides his time between Nepal and Japan, is from Khumjung but runs the lodge in the small, walled, and seasonal hamlet of Lungden. Again, the views are wonderful from the lodge so don’t be lured inside all afternoon by the warm stove. We have trekked down to one of the few still-traditional Sherpa valleys of the otherwise well-trekked Khumbu region. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.6km

Day 21 – Trek Thame 3805m/12,480′ (Valley View Lodge)
Today’s Himalayan hike is a step back in time as we pass by many old, walled Sherpa villages, seasonal settlements of the Thame and Thamo villagers. We used to share the trail with Tibetan yak caravans, Khampas trading en route to and from Namche and Tibet with the villagers. We’ll cross an icy stream, jumping from stone to stone before crossing the last section on a small wooden bridge, and follow a high trail above the Bhote Kosi through Marulung (4210m). Just past Marlung, we cross an intersecting stream on a Bailey Bridge; from the climb just afterward we take the higher trail and trek through the top of the traditional Sherpa village of Tarnga, where Sherpa folklore tells of a yeti massacre. Sherpas from throughout the Thame valley own land for growing potatoes in Tarnga, once a seasonal settlement that only grew barley. Above to the left is the triangular, snow-covered Langmuche Ri (6344m).

Just before reaching Thame Thang, we have the option to make a short detour to the small Nyimgmapa Kerok Gompa (Kyarong Sang-Naag Choling Gompa, 3870m), with an intimate courtyard and a new museum. When we reach Thame Thang, we hike past a series of chortens and mani walls, and through the Sherpa village to reach Lhakpa’s sister Serki (and our dzo owner Pasang)’s modest Sherpa house. We’ll stop for a feast of Sherpa potato pancakes and tea for lunch, always a highlight. Their daughter Mingma Choki, who attended Khumjung School used to come to Thame to meet us but now studies in Kathmandu. Mingma’s older sister Pasang Lhamu, finished her schooling at Khumjung and college (+2) in Kathmandu, and in 2022 was applying to universities. And she now works at our Cafe Caravan in Boudha! Their cousin Sonam Chhuten, used to attend Thame School (where she walked 2 hours each way every day from Mende) but now boards at Khumjung School. The Kamzang Fund has sponsored these three lovely girls for their educations for many years, as well as their other cousin Zangmu, also from Thame.

Trekking past the new stupa, we have a small ridge to climb before looking down on the scenic and traditional village of Thame. Thame is an old village of snaking rock walls, yak paddocks, and traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa, perched up to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and one of the gompas that celebrates the Dunche festival in the summertime. We stay the night at Lhakpa’s uncle Dr Kami (of Khunde Hospital) and his wife Dawa Dolma’s Valley View Lodge, with the best tongba (fermented millet beer, served in a bamboo container with a long straw and hot water) in the Khumbu. The lovely cook’s lively daughter is named Chandika, and was 10 years old studying at Thame School in 2021, and The Kamzang Fund now sponsors Bipana Rai, age 12 and in class 3 in 2021, who used to stay with Sonam Chhuten’s family. 

Take the afternoon to climb to Thame Gonpa, one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and wander around the walled village. Lhakpa’s niece and our yak driver Mingma’s daughter Doma Tenzing teaches at the Thame School, and was also aided in finishing her college degree in Kathmandu The Kamzang Fund. She is now married and living along tomorrow’s trail to Namche. Kunga Palmo, her sister Doma Rigzin’s 5-year-old daughter, also attends kindergarten (2021) in Thame.

To the west of Thame near the Tashi Labsta La (5755m) which leads to the Rolwaling Valley is Papchermo Ri (6273m), and Sundar Peak (5360m) is just to the north of Thame, a day-climb. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.4km

Day 22 – Trek Namche | via Khari Ani Gompa + Lawudo Gompa 3900m/12,792′ (Moonlight Resort)
Back to Namche, the Moonlight Lodge, hot showers, good food, and cold beers after a beautiful walk from Thame back to Namche. Leaving Thame, we pass Mingma’s house (another yak man, Lhakpa’s cousin, Doma Tenzing’s father) and their newly reconstructed house gompa and prayer wheel. We might stop in at Lhakpa’s younger sister, Pelhamo’s house (where Lhakpa grew up) in the lower end of the village for a cup of tea if she is not in Mende, the family’s winter home. Continuing to descend past ancient, carved mani walls, we cross the deep ravine on a Bailey bridge and gaze up at the wonderful murals of Guru Rimpoche and other Buddhist figures on a rock face high over the Bhote Kosi. We trek through lovely Samde, which has small shrines to mountain deities in the middle of their fields, and then stop for a visit to the beautifully reconstructed Khari Nunnery (ani gompa), which houses lovely nuns originally from Tibet.

KHARI GOMPA | “In 1959, as the Chinese Cultural Revolution raged through Tibet destroying Buddhist monasteries and artifacts and killing thousands of monks and nuns, Khari Rinpoche Lobsang Tsultrim and some of his students fled Tibet. He and his followers crossed over the treacherous Nangpa La (pass) into Nepal and found refuge in the foothills of the Himalayas near Mount Everest. They settled in the village of Thamo. In 1962 some Thamo villagers offered land and in 3 days built a monastery for the nuns and their Lama on the hillside above the village. This became Khari Gonpa, a small Tibetan Buddhist nunnery. By 2002 the prayer hall (lhakang) at the nunnery was too small to accommodate the nuns and local community of Sherpas and Tibetans, and it was in serious disrepair. At that time, His Holiness the Dalai Lama requested the 3rd Khari Rinpoche Tenzin Yonten to design and build a new prayer hall in the same location as the original one. Today the magnificent new lhakang is finished.” – Tara Foundation USA

After a visit to the nunnery, we pass through the scenic village of Thamo where the Nepal army used to have a customs post to control the Tibetan trade over the Nangpa La. The pass is now, sadly, closed to Tibetan traders. An option to visit Lawudo Gompa below, in which case you miss seeing the ani gompa.

LAWUDO GOMPA SIDE TRIP | We can make a side trip to Lawudo Gompa (3900m), affiliated with the renowned Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu, tucked away above Thamo and Mende villages. We take an alternative (and rarely used by trekkers) trail which climbs steeply to the small gompa where Guru Rimpoche meditated in a small cave en route to Tibet. The monk or ani (nun) staying in this magical retreat will inevitably treat us to tea while we take in the spectacular views from the gompa steps. Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, looms overhead, prayer flags from the gompa providing the perfect Himalayan foreground. The local monk, Nawang Chhuldim, assured Kim that this was one of the most beautiful spots in the Khumbu when Kim first happened upon this isolated gompa, high above the main trail. The cave the famous Rimpoche used has been turned into a tiny cave chapel, and there is an eclectic in-house library. Kim has a book on Lawudo Gompa, ask if you want some more history on this monastery.

We’ll have lunch with Lhakpa’s sister in Mende (if she is there and not in Thame), picnic-style in the yard of their local Sherpa stone and shingle house. Locally grown potato pancakes will be on the menu, a Sherpa specialty. From Mende, we drop steeply to the main trail and trek for an hour and a half to Namche, contouring high above the river on an undulating trail, passing two large chortens and ending at the Tibetan puja spot, adorned with thousands of lung-ta (prayer flags), and soon the Namche helipad where we’ll have great views down to the amphitheater of Namche. (4-6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.3km

Day 23 – Trek Lukla 2850m/9348′ (Paradise Lodge)
Leaving Namche along the same trail that we hiked up over a week ago, we hike down the steep hill past the Everest viewpoint to the prayer flag-covered suspension bridge, continue on an hour along the lower trail to Jorsale where we cross the river yet again on a suspension bridge. Jorsale is the home of Phuru Diki, one of the girls THAT the Kamzang Fund has sponsored since class 3. After finishing nursing school (university) in Kathmandu, Phura Diki headed to Sydney to continue her studies, working on furthering her nursing education!

After one last steep hill to the National Park gate, we reach the welcome sight of Monjo, green with apple trees and checkered fields. We might run into Dali, the mother of Dawa Yangi and Nimalee, two Monjo sisters that the Kamzang Fund sponsored since class 3 as well. Dawa Yangi has finished her tourism degree in Kathmandu, and also has city and trekking guide licenses, while Nimalee was working at one the high-end lodges in the Khumbu and is now married with a daughter. We’ll stop for lunch 1½ hours away at Shangri La in Phakding, and finish the trek back at Dawa Phuti and Ang Pasang’s Eco Paradise Lodge in Lukla, where we have one last chance to  sample some of Dawa’s famous Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room is one the nicest in the Everest region, and it’s always an added treat to return to Lukla after the trek.

Ang Pasang works closely with the airport, so we are in good hands for our flight out the next morning. We will give out tips and have a party for the Kamzang Journeys staff in the evening! (7-7½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 18.2km

Day 23 – Helicopter Lukla 2850m/9348′ (Optional Helicopter Trip)
You’ve already trekked this section of trail, and it’s a long, undulating hiking day from Namche to Lukla. Why not consider sharing a helicopter back to Lukla and relaxing for the rest of the day at Paradise Lodge, enjoying a cappuccino at one of Lukla’s many cafes, doing some craft shop or gallery browsing? Or if you feel like a short hike, you can do a beautiful Chaunrikharka loop.

+ Price of helicopter is approximately $750, so seat dependent on number of passengers.

Day 24 – Fly Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as we fly out of Lukla to Kathmandu early this morning. And taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is just as exciting as landing! Flights out of Lukla are sometimes delayed by bad weather, so we suggest booking an extra day in Kathmandu in case of cancellations. In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu Guest House, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped at the laundry. In the evening we’ll get together for dinner at one of Thamel’s many restaurants and celebrate our trek through the Everest region! (B)

TRAVEL NOTE | We strongly recommend scheduling an extra day in Kathmandu in case of flight delays or cancellations out of Lukla or Ramechhap.

Day 25 – Trip Ends | Transfer TIA
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste & Tashi Delek!

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

2024 Dates
10 Nov – 4 Dec
25 Days

2024 Trek Price
$4880

+ Includes ALL Lodges, Choice of Meals, Snacks, Desert, Hot Water Bottles & Unlimited Hot Drinks
+ Kim & Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa Trek Guides (Kim Guaranteed to Guide with 5+ Trekkers)

Private Trek Price
$4180
+ Includes Lodges, All Meals & Unlimited Hot Drinks
+ Sherpa Guide (Custom Departures)

$3580
+ B&B Price 
+ Sherpa Guide (Custom Departures)

+ Single Upgrade Lodges – $375 (Subject to Availability)

Kathmandu Guest House Single & Double Upgrades 
+ Deluxe Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $135
+ Suite Upgrade Kathmandu Guest House (3 Nights) – $225

Kathmandu Guest House | Extra Nights Room Price
Includes Breakfast & Taxes

Standard Single – $55
Standard Double – $65
Deluxe Single – $100
Deluxe Double – $110
Suite Single – $130
Suite Double – $140

Everest Region Helicopter Prices
+ Helicopter Kathmandu – Lukla (and Lukla – Kathmandu) ($325 Per Person. Shared Helicopter 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Namche – Lukla (+$600 Per Helicopter. Max 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Tengboche or Pangboche-Lukla (+$900 Per Helicopter. Max 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Lobuche – Lukla (+$1350 Per Helicopter – Max 3 Pax)

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House
• Western + Sherpa Guide | Kim + Lhakpa Sherpa
• All Trekking Permits
• All Lodges on Khumbu Trek
• Group Transportation by Private Vehicle
• Domestic Flights + Departure Taxes
• Airport Transfers
• Local Expertise | 20+ Years of Experience in the Everest Region
• Kamzang Lodge Trekking | Kamzang Journeys menus at the lodges, a variety of teas (including herbal), French Press organic Nepali coffee, variety of hot drinks, snacks, chocolate & desserts, filtered drinking water, hot water bottles at night, gas heater in dining room, double rooms at lodges, extensive medical kit, satellite & mobile phone, oxygen (PAC) bag, library of Everest books, yaks for portering gear, Sherpa & Western guides and our great, attentive staff!

Safety & Health Precautions | Included in Trek

• Thuraya Satellite Phone
• Helicopter Evacuation Services – Excluding Cost of Evacuation
• Oxygen Saturation Monitoring System
• PAC Bag (portable oxygen chamber)
• Full Medical Kit, Medical Experience + Stretcher
• Kayadyn Filtered Drinking Water
• Safe, sanitary, delicious + plentiful food + drinks

Excludes

• International Flights
• Nepal Visa
• Travel, Trip Cancellation or Travel Medical Insurance
• Helicopter Rescue Service Cost
• Helicopter Shuttle Service to-from Lukla (In case of flight delays or cancellation)
• Meals in Kathmandu (While not on trek)
• Equipment Rental
• Boiled Drinking Water
• Alcohol + Bottled Drinks
• Showers
• Battery Charging at Lodges
• Laundry
• Tipping + Other Items of a Personal Naature

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 for meals in Kathmandu (while not on trek), drinks + snacks (on trek) and tips. We recommend $300 – $350 per trekker into the tips pool for the crew.

TripAdvisor Reviews!

Trekker Highlights & Reviews
Trekkers’ Comments

Trek Highlights

• 3 Himalayan Passes | Renjo La, Cho La & Kongma La
• 3 Himalayan Peaks | Kala Pattar, Gokyo Ri & Chhukhung Ri
• 2 Base Camps | Everest Base Camp & Amadablam Base Camp
• 2 Glacier Crossings | Khumbu Glacier & Gokyo Ngozumpa Glacier
• Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries | Lawudo, Pangboche, Namche, Thame, Khunde & Khumjung Gompas
• Sublimely Beautiful Gokyo Lakes Valley
• Spectacular High Trail to Phortse
• Chhukhung & Island Peak Base Camp Valley
• Traditionally Sherpa Villages in the Thame & Khumbu Valleys
• Saturday Market at Namche Bazaar
• Rare Himalayan Wildlife + Birds
• Wonderful, Warm Sherpa lodges
• Cultural Immersion into Tibetan Sherpa Culture
• Extra Acclimatization, Peak Gazing & Exploration Days
• Breathtaking Sunrises & Sunsets over Himalayan Peaks
• Special Kamzang Menus Freshly Prepared from Sherpa Lodges
• Hot Water Bottles & Hot Washing Water
• Kamzang Library
• Kim, Lhakpa & 

THE BEST of Trekking in the Everest Region + the Nepal Himalaya!

Trekkers’ Highlights
Another great Kamzang Journeys trek! This was my 6th Kamzang Journey trek with Kim and Lhakpa. As on the previous 5 treks, this one exceeded my expectations. Kim runs a very organized and exciting trek, the level of detail and safety precautions are second to none, her staff are interesting and engaging. There are not too many trekking companies who have the knowledge and contacts in the Khumbu (Everest) region as Kamzang Journeys does. If you are keen to trek in Nepal, India or Bhutan I would highly recommend Kim, Lhakpa and the Kamzang Journeys team!
– Sue W (Australia), Everest High Passes Trek 2019

Kim, the trek was such a life’s adventure journey!!  The trip of a lifetime (double that with my Ladakh). trek Your special style along with an unbelievable staff. Thank you so much for the gift of this trip!!
– Kristy O (USA), Everest High Passes Trek 2021

This was my second Himalayan trip with Kamzang Journeys, and again I can report this is arguably the best trekking outfitter in Nepal + Tibet. What sets Kamzang Journeys apart is how they design their treks and how they work with their clients on an individual basis to optimize the experience. No other company is able to give a better experience to trekkers of different ability and levels of fitness traveling together as a group. Our group of 12 Westerners ranged from extremely fit marathon runners and triathletes to older clients like me who are not particularly fit, – slow hikers that liked to stop and take frequent photographs. Trekkers were always accompanied by a staff member on the trail and the crew kept in contact with trip leaders Kim and Lhakpa by radio at all times. If someone became ill, their itinerary was rearranged to help them recover without having to leave the trip early. Co-leader Lhakpa easily arranged transit flights by helicopter for clients who felt unable to tackle any of the high passes by arrangement with rescue companies for a nominal cost. Staff members who hiked with me looked after my well being every day of the trip by reminding me to stay hydrated and by carrying my day pack and heavy camera gear. Always cheerful and with 20 years of outfitting experience in the Himalaya, Kim and company keep their clients healthy and safe, in spite of the lower than average rates they charge for their trips. I would recommend Kamzang to anyone wishing to experience the Himalayas and Tibet on treks ranging from the ultra popular Everest Base Camp trip to more remote treks in regions less frequented by Westerners.
– Karl M (USA), Everest High Passes Trek 2019

I have just completed the Everest High Passes trek with Kamzang Journeys. I cannot praise too highly the team of Kim Bannister and her business partner Lhakpa Dorji Sherpa and the treks that they lead, all across the Himalaya region. I previously trekked with them in Ladakh, and have already signed up to join them for a fantastic journey into Tibet in May. As a testament to how loyal their clients are, on this last trek, 5 of the 8 trekkers were repeat clients and 3 had trekked with Kim multiple times before. At dinner the first night we joked that our lives AK(after Kim) were much better than BK(before Kim). They know the Himalaya backwards and forwards; the trips are well organized and thoughtfully scheduled, with every detail taken care of. In short, you will not go wrong booking a trip with Kamzang Journeys.
– Clark P (USA), Everest High Passes Trek 2018

An excellent trekking company, providing great service and value! We recently completed the Everest High Passes Trek with 2 adult sons, our first trip to Nepal + the Himalaya. Our experience with Kamzang Journeys and this trek completely exceeded our expectations. I did a lot of research prior to booking with Kamzang Journeys, and will say that what you get for the price they charge is a bargain. They take care of every detail, everything is included in the trip price, and any extras you may wish to add on is clearly communicated as an additional charge before the trip- no surprises. A factor not reflected in the price is that Kim and Lhakpa are actually on the trip with you. Having the owners/organizers communicate with you prior to the trip, and then accompany you on the trip added immeasurable value to the entire experience. It is unusual for me to place a month’s worth of vacation in someone else’s hands, but I would travel with Kamzang Journeys again in a heartbeat.
– Mark, Erik + Cory D (USA), Everest High Passes Trek 2019

Simply the best! As a very experienced Himalayan trekker who just did three straight trips with Kamzang Journeys I can’t imagine booking a trek with any other company in the future. Kim and Lhakpa are so experienced, so professional and so much fun to walk with, and their attention to every detail, like hot water bottles for our sleeping bags every cold night on the High Everest trek, is amazing. Even after Kim broke her wrist coming down from the Renja La she was focused on making sure we were all okay. Amazing!
– Tom B (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek, Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek & Everest High Passes Trek 2014

I just returned from the Everest High Passes Trek with Kamzang Journeys in November. AWESOME!! A trek I will never forget, it was for me a dream come true to travel to Nepal and see the beautiful Himalayan Mountains. The villages, customs, food, and the beautiful people of Nepal made it a truly fabulous experience. It was not always easy however very achievable thanks to Kim Bannister, Lhakpa and their team (Junar, Suresh and Yam) from Kamzang Journeys. Their attention to detail made for a very safe and comfortable trek. There was always someone watching over me and giving me support and encouragement when I needed. Kim’s experience in trekking, understanding of the customs and tradition and not to mention her comprehensive medical knowledge was invaluable.
– Diana P (Australia), Everest High Passes Trek 2015

A big thank you to Kim and Lhakpa for another unforgettable trip! This trip was everything and more than I expected. Their local knowledge (we visited and had morning tea at Lhakpa’s sister AND his mother’s house!!) is outstanding and they seem to know everyone. As usual there were the extra touches that only Kim does – freshly brewed coffee each morning, our own gas heater for the dining rooms, hot water bottles, afternoon snacks, the travelling library and the best rooms at every tea house we stayed in. Envious looks from other trekkers followed us around the Khumbu! I can’t recommend Kamzang Journeys enough. This was the third trek I have done with this company and am already booked to do my fourth. Do your research and you will find this is the most organized, value for money, friendly, and most importantly, safe company you can trek with. Happy trekking!
– Lorraine H (Australia), Everest High Passes Trek 2014

I trekked the Everest High Passes 25 day trek with Kim and Lhakpa of Kamzang Journeys in 2018. This trek not only includes incredible scenery, but is a cultural experience. Kim seems to know everyone in the Khumbu so you are constantly running into people she has known for many years and sometimes are invited to have tea. Lhakpa grew up in the region and has many relatives. We had lunch at his sister’s house, tea at another relative’s house and one of the lodges we stayed in is owned by his aunt and uncle. So you get a real sense of the Sherpa culture. Kamzang Journeys has many extras that make the trip easier such as daily hot washing water, hot water bottles for sleeping, never empty candy and cookie containers, French press coffee, hot chocolate and assorted teas. The staff bends over backwards to help. Kim has extensive medical knowledge and a full medical kit. Lhakpa seems to have connections everywhere and even arranged a good priced helicopter ride for 7 of us to avoid the difficult Cho La pass when we were sick with the Khumbu cough. If you are looking for a trek in the Everest region I strongly recommend Kamzang Journeys. They also do treks in the surrounding areas which some members of our group had done. 5 of the 8 people on our trek had trekked with Kamzang Journeys before.
– Peggy T (US), Everest High Passes Trek 2018

A great trek! Kim and Lhakpa are a great partnership, together with their very experienced Nepali support crew they were able to look after every need of the 10 trekkers that completed this journey. They go the extra mile in many different ways: a very good acclimatization programme, coffee, teas & extra snacks before & with meals, gas heater to ensure cold mornings in tea houses were more comfortable, plus incredible support while trekking. This team are very well respected in the Everest region & rightfully so. I would recommend this company and tour to anyone wanting “something more” the standard Everest Base Camp tour offered by so many companies.
– Graham P (New Zealand), Everest High Passes Trek 2014

The best trek in the Everest region! Some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Nepalese Himalayas. A window on the traditional villages of Sherpas and the gompas (monasteries), their Buddhist culture of mountains as well their summits and sacred valleys. The Everest area is a very spiritual and colorful place. We flew to Lukla, at the base of the Himalayan mountains, where we spent a little more than three weeks hiking around the world’s highest mountains. To name but a few places: Namche, a wonderful mountain perched village, Chuckung, where for the first time I reached the summit of a mountain at more than 5000 meters, Gorak Shep, at the base of Mount Everest and where I climb Kala Patthar (5600 meters), the Cho La and Renjo La … and much more! Thanks to Kim and the entire team of Kamzang Journeys for allowing me to discover this wonderful place!
– Adam D, Everest High Passes Trek 2015

Watch the Video!
Everest High Passes Trek | Adam D on Vimeo

Thank you for a GREAT TREK! You, Lhakpa and the guides really did us proud! Would I recommend your High Passes of Everest trek to others? A definite YES! You took us to all the best view points in the Khumbu where we had FANTASTIC VIEWS of Everest and so many other beautiful mountains. Your itinerary also gave us longer at the high points (eg Gorak Shep and Gokyo) than most companies. The guides were excellent doing everything they could to make our holiday truly memorable. They were ready to help with an arm when needed and so patient and smiley when we were slow. Lhakpa was always working hard to ensure everything ran smoothly, so much so that it was easy not to notice all he did, which included using his contacts to secure us flights out of Lukla. But, Kim, you made the trek! Once you had had your morning coffee, you were always smiling, working hard, encouraging us and sorting out our various ailments! It was lovely to see you with the locals, including Lhakpa’s mother in her traditional Sherpa’s house. Young and old they were all so pleased to see you. Apart from the mountains and the views my lasting memory will be of you with your enthusiasm and SMILE!
– Martin S (UK), Everest High Passes Trek 2012

My walking highlights of the trek are numerous, and not obviously the ones I had identified before the trek: Aba Dablam base camp – what a lovely heat trap and seeing the climbers very near the summit, Cho La Pass, and the Renjo Pass were true adventures especially the glacier of the former, the views from Gokyo Ri, Chhukhung Ri, and Kala Pattar. One of the best treks was that from Thame to Lhakpa’s mother’s home at Mende and then on to Namche Bazaar. There were fantastic views around every corner, and the potato pancakes were something I shall remember for a long time. Fantastic hospitality as well. I shall also remember my visit to Everest Base Camp, particularly the time down in amongst the ice pillars. Upon leaving the pillars to go back, and standing at the last one, I shall always remember the tremendously loud, deep, resonant ‘crack’ of the ice moving somewhere that sounded very near to me!
– David Reynolds (UK), Everest High Passes Trek 2012

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip & Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Sherpa Books
Stories & Customs of the Sherpas | Frances Klatzel
Gaiety of Spirit | Frances Klatzel

‘Landscapes Revealed’ Everest Geology Blog Posts
How did the Himalayas get to be Earth’s highest mountain range? | Karen Grove

Trekking in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalayas, Part 1: from Kathmandu to Namche | Karen Grove

Trekking in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalayas, Part 2: All hail to Ama Dablam | Karen Grove

Trekking in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalayas, Part 3: to Everest Base Camp and Goyko | Karen Grove

Trekking in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalayas, Part 4: from Gokyo back to Lukla| Karen Grove

Online Articles & Documentaries on Everest Region
Glacier Works | David Breshear’s Interactive Site

Everest by Drone | National Geographic Adventure

Everest From Above | National Geographic

Battle of the Himalayas: The Fight to Film Everest | BBC Four Documentary

1953: First Footsteps – Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzin Norgay | National Geographic

Sherpas | The True Heroes of Mount Everest | Film Adventure

Glory or Death | Climbing Mount Everest | True Sports (YouTube)

On Mount Everest, Sherpa Guides Bear the Brunt of the Danger | NPR

Lakes Expanding Dangerously in Everest Glacier | BBC

Rivers of Ice – Vanishing Glaciers | BBC

Everest | National Geographic Adventure

Climbing Everest Then & Now | National Geographic Adventure

Everest Revealed: Photos by Renan Ozturk | National Geographic Adventure

Flying a Drone at Everest | Himalayan Aerials

The Everest Avalanche 2014 | YouTube

Living Through the Himalayan Thaw | Himalayan Times

Nepal Quake Caused Minimal Damage to Everest Trails | Reuters

Nepal Before & After the Earthquake | New York Times

Jan Morris: No One Else Needs to Climb Everest | New Statesman

Airport Near Everest is its own Perilous Adventure | New York Times

Sherpa – They Die, We Go Home | New York Times

On Mount Everest – Surviving and Earthquake & an Avalanche | New York Times Lens Blog

Climate Model Suggests Glaciers Could Nearly Disappear | New York Times

Forty Years of Everest | YouTube

Nepal Drains Dangerous Everest Lake | BBC

The Epic of Everest | BBC Four

Sherpaland Gets a Makeover | Nepali Times

On Thin Ice in the Khumbu | Nepali Times

Taking the Pulse of Ngozumba | BBC 

Former Miss Nepal an Everest Helicopter Pilot | ABC News

Yaks in the Everest Region | YouTube (Kamzang Journeys)

Nepal’s Other Attraction – The Night Sky | Nepali Times

Everest High Passes Trek | Adam D Vimeo (Kamzang Journeys Trek)