Wild Everest to Tibet Border | Makalu Barun Valley, Gokyo Lakes, Renjo La & Nangpa La (Passes) Camping Trek
Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) | Nepal Himalayan Trek

Wild Everest | Makalu Barun (Arun Salpa), Gokyo Lakes, Renjo La & Nangpa La (Tibet) Camping & Lodge Trek – GHT | Nepal Himalayan Trekking

Day 1 – Arrive Kathmandu 1340m (4395′) | Transfer Kathmandu Guest House
Welcome to Nepal! You’ll be met at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from the Kathmandu Guest House. Once you exit the airport, look for the Kathmandu Guest House sign and a sign with your name on it. Rajendra (+977 9841623270) +/or the KGH driver will transfer you to the Kathmandu Guest House, where your rooms have been booked for you. Relax in their beautiful, newly expanded garden, hydrate, enjoy a snack and recover from your jet lag.

Kim will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to Thamel, the bustling tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad of shops of all imaginable varieties, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, spas, climbing walls, colorful banners and signs, and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner at Roadhouse Cafe, New Orleans, Denchenling, Yin & Yang, Third Eye, or one of Thamel’s other restaurants we’ll get to know each other over a few drinks …

Day 2 – Kathmandu | Optional World Heritage Sightseeing Tour
Morning meeting at 9 AM in the back garden of the Kathmandu Guest House to collect passports, insurance information and photos, and go over some of our trek details and logistics. Enjoy a free day exploring Kathmandu’s many World Heritage sites or embark on a tour of the beautiful Kathmandu valley, surrounded by Himalayan snow peaks (see Kathmandu Valley Tours for optional tours with a qualified guide, car, and entrance fees included). Or just relax at the hotel, visit the spa, have a massage, wander Kathmandu’s fascinating streets, pop into neighborhood Hindu temples and Newari-styled courtyards, join in on koras of the Buddhist temples.

We’ll have time for a bit of gear shopping in Thamel for anyone who needs to adjust their gear, and in the evening we’ll get together for dinner in another of Thamel’s great restaurants. Option to visit Boudhanath Stupa, Cafe Caravan and have dinner at Roadhouse Boudhanath overlooking the stupa. (B)

Cafe Caravan & Dolpo Gallery
Dolpo Artist Tenzin Norbu creates wonderful Dolpo paintings, the prints (and some originals) are available from our Cafe Caravan at Boudhanath Stupa, housed in one of Boudha’s original historic buildings, decorated in a bright, Tibetan style and overlooking the magnificent stupa!

Massage in Kathmandu (Ramji of Relieving Hands)
Ramji is a blind masseur trained by Seeing Hands in Kathmandu, who now offers wonderful at home (or hotel) massages, with his own massage table and oil. He is truly a master masseur, a real healer and VERY highly recommended. His prices are extremely reasonable. Let us know if you want help to arrange a massage.
Relieving Hands by Ramji

Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Nuru Wangdi Sherpa (Khumbu Adventures & Café Caravan) has his Kathmandu guide license and a large SUV vehicle, and can arrange any sightseeing you might want to do in Kathmandu and the Kathmandu valley. He is often available for guiding your excursions as well. Mobile + WhatsApp: +977 9803633783 (WhatsApp)

Kathmandu | World Heritage Sightseeing Tours – Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Durbar Square & Swayambunath
Kathmandu is filled with World Heritage sites and sacred destinations, crowded with traditional neighborhoods and colorful festivals. Spend a few days exploring Nepal’s exotic capital and the history-laden Kathmandu valley. We can arrange sightseeing guides and vehicles as required. See Kathmandu Heritage & Happenings for more details.

We recommend beginning with Pashupatinath in the early morning and moving on to Boudhanath mid-morning. Hindu Pashupatinath on the sacred Bagmati river and its sacred temple complex is one of Nepal’s most important sites, a powerful cremation site, and Nepal’s most important Hindu temple. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange and saffron sit serenely meditating when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees. Local guides can explain the significance of the complicated ceremonies. Please be respectful when taking photos.

Boudhanath, in the midst of traditional monasteries (gonpas in Tibetan) and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, attracts Sherpas, Tibetans, and tourists alike for daily circumambulations (koras) of the iconic stupa. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. There are wonderful spots for lunch at Boudhanath (Roadhouse Cafe has wood-oven pizzas and a breathtaking view of the stupa and colorful Nepalis circling it), and it’s a good place to learn the technique of thanka painting and purchase a thanka (Buddhist mural). See also Bhaktapur for more options for shopping for thankas.

Wander through the many temples, pagodas, courtyards, and the museum at Kathmandu Durbar Square, a timeless gathering spot and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the old royal palace, is Kathmandu’s ‘Palace Square’, a showcase for the world-renowned artisans and craftsmen of Kathmandu and a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist palaces, temples, stupas, and statues. The Malla and Shah kings ruled over the Kathmandu Valley during the centuries of the building of the layers of this Durbar Square. Along with their opulent palaces, the square surrounds numerous courtyards and temples, all works of art with intricate and often erotic carvings. Kathmandu Durbar Square is known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, a name derived from a statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, at the entrance of the palace. The social, religious and urban focal point of the city, Durbar Square is often the site of festivals, marriages, and other ceremonies such as Teej. Some important structures are Hanuman Dhoka Palace, Kumari Ghar (Abode of the Living Goddess), Taleju Temple, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, the 17th century stone inscription set into the wall of the palace with writings in 15 languages.

In the evening (take the interesting back streets from Durbar Square) climb the many steps to the gilded Swayambhunath stupa (known as the monkey temple) which rises from the Kathmandu valley floor at 1420 meters and is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal. Swayambunath, the ‘self-created’  stupa, was founded over 2000 years ago at a time when the Kathmandu valley was filled by a large lake, with a single lotus in the center. Mythology says that Manjusri, a bodhisattva, drained the lake with one cut of his sword and the lotus flower was transformed into the stupa. From its commanding views of Kathmandu, circumambulate Swayambunath’s white-washed stupa, painted with distinctive Buddha eyes, the complex a unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. Another interesting time to visit Swayambunath is in the mornings when Nepalis visit the temple dedicated to the God of Smallpox with colorful offerings for the goddess.

Stop to photograph reflections in Kathmandu’s many pokharis or ponds, including the beautiful Rani Pokhari (queen’s bath) near New Road, and the Naga Pokhari (pond of the snake gods of the underworld) just beyond the palace gates. The many bathing ghats, square enclosures with steps leading down to water spouts and often decorated with naga heads, are also interesting and colorful gathering spots.

Day 3 – Fly Tumlingtar 395m
After an early breakfast, we’ll head to the airport for our flight to Tumlingtar in eastern Nepal, the starting point of our trek through the Arun & Salpa valleys en route to the Khumbu region. It’s a beautiful flight over terraced fields and traditional villages with a range of Himalayan 8000-meter peaks peeking over the haze in the distance. The landing is classic old-style Nepal; a sharp turn, a steep descent to a once-grassy and now newly-paved airstrip, backed by a small, dirt track that’s the main ‘street’ in Tumlingtar.

We are staying in rooms in a local-style guest house, Makalu Hotel, as there are no longer any good sites in Tumlingtar, but our cook Junar will cook our meals for us. We’ll introduce you to our ‘Kamzang-style’ way of running treks, have some lunch and you’ll have the afternoon free to reorganize and explore the rustic village of Tumlingtar. Kim, Lhakpa and the staff will go into town to buy some supplies for the trek, and you’re welcome to tag along if you want. There’s a local barber for any of the guys wanting a quick pre-trek shave and haircut!

The next few nights will be warm, so dinner will just be in a t-shirt; enjoy it while it lasts, and have a cold beer to wash it down as we’re sleeping below 400 meters. (B, L, D)

Day 4 – Trek Kartiki Ghat 315m
The Arun Salpa Valley trek will be wonderful days of ‘old-style’ trekking through the idyllic middle hills of eastern Nepal, a very diverse region of many ethnic groups, shamanistic religion interspersed with Buddhism and Hinduism, traditional thatched and bamboo villages, green, terraced rice paddies, patterned fields of grains, small, riverside trails, local schools, basic ‘bhattis’ (teahouses) and lots of hills walking.

With the mountains rising in the hazy distance, Chamalang to the left and Makalu to the far-right, we set out with our crew from Tumlingtar, following the small road through the long village and adjoining series of small, lively villages and colorful tea-houses. There will be many locals sharing the trail with us, as well as trains of mules carrying cardamom, the biggest cash crop in the region, and other supplies. After an hour, we reach a fantastic suspension bridge with side ties stretching across the wide Arun River (which we don’t cross) and drop down to the sandy riverside, peppered with rounded beach rocks. Following the river closely, we pass terraced rice fields, buffalos, thatched huts and villagers working in the fields. Soon, the Chewa Besi primary school appears on the right, a scenic spot under banana and papaya trees, followed soon afterwards by the small, local tea-houses of Chewa Besi where we stop for a packed lunch. Notice the bee hives in old logs attached to the top decks of many of the houses.

After a game of ‘karam board’ at the tea-house, we continue to the small village of Kartiki Ghat, where we cross the Arun river on a long suspension bridge. The village, known for its bees and honey, stretches out just past the bridge, and our campsite is not far past the village, a scenic, green campsite right on the Arun River, between two gurgling streams. Enjoy the warmth of this ‘tropical’ site, and pick up some cold beers from town … (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.59km Elevation Gain: 106m Elevation Loss: 171m

Day 5 – Trek Gothe Bazaar 685m
We start the morning with an easy twenty minute walk to the lovely village of Balwa Besi, where we cross a small, sparkling stream on a wooden bridge and then start climbing past a few local teahouses where bananas and oranges are often available. We continue through a lush, tropical forest and past thatched and white-washed huts to a ‘chautara’ (local rest-spot, here also a spectacular viewpoint) high above the hazy valley and the Arun River. Leaving the lovely Arun behind, we have 600 meters (in total from camp) to climb before lunch, and the trail of red mud can be slippery if the weather has been damp. Contouring around hillsides and continuing to climb, we reach the lovely small village of Marduwa and pass other scenic hamlets surrounded by terraced rice paddies and fruit trees (including one nut used for making Hindu ‘malas’ (prayer beads). We walk right through more terraced rice paddies and clusters of ochre and cream mud-brick houses built in the local style, eventually stopping for lunch near Nepali Danda, also called Charlissay, named after a Chettri caste that lived here many years ago and have reputedly migrated to the Kathmandu area.

Soon we reach the intersection of the old trail from Dingla, and after contouring around a hillside through more rice paddies (this is actually the main trail), we reach a larger trail near a cluster of banyan trees. The forest thickens again as we ascend and then drop back down on a muddy, slippery trail to the Irkhuwa River . We cross two more bridges, the second one a long suspension bridge, and following a riverside trail through a small hamlet where locals might be threshing their dried rice, for another 45 minutes. Keep your eyes out for brilliant, blue Kingfishers looking for fish in the river. After reaching a small teahouse perched on a low ridge where we often find bunches of sweet bananas and tangerines for sale, we descend once more and after 10 minutes arrive at Gothe Bazaar. Here, the inhabitants a mix of Gurung and Rai and it’s a local stop for Nepali porters traveling with loads. We should be able to find some local pumpkins for soup, delicious. (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.11km Eevation Gain: 738m Elevation Loss: 362m

Day 6 – Trek Salpa Phedi 1520m
Another misty morning start as we head towards Dhobane, a village of paper-makers (the same that you see in the Kathmandu markets) en route to Salpa Phedi. We leave Goethe Bazaar by crossing the stream and the tea-houses on the opposite side and soon pass many thatched huts in the middle of more terraced rice paddies; most of these are shelters for buffalos. Delicious tangerines are sold along the trail again by local villagers, so don’t miss the chance to pick up a bunch for the day. After an hour of flat walking through more harvested rice paddies, we cross the river on a flexing bamboo bridge, and hike up through the picturesque whitewashed village of Lankuwa, a hamlet of only three houses. We reach the suspension bridge that connects us to the trail the porters will take, climb again and soon reach Negdaha village, slightly larger, with the same thatched roofs and ochre and cream whitewash and banana trees for shade. Soon afterwards we start on a steep, uphill climb past a few small waterfalls and over one more suspension bridge to Dhobane; the staff often eat their morning meal at some local tea-houses. Taking the stone steps just to the right of this stop, we’ll have another few hours of gradual climbing through tropical forests; notice the long, green leaves of the cardamom plant throughout the day and the traditional fishermen with their long, bamboo nets along the river below.

We’ll have lunch at a local house an hour before Tendo, a large and attractive Rai village where they also make traditional Nepali paper. Half an hour past here is a school of 350 students that goes up to class 10. We’ll stop for a cup of chai at a small teahouse (we bought great Kyunri knives here last year) before hiking another hour uphill, on a lovely hill-side trail backed by undulating grasses, rocks and fruit trees until we reach the grassy campsite at Phedi, a welcome site. Someone will undoubtedly be around with a basket of expensive but much needed beers and cokes. (B, L, D)
Distance: 12.95m Elevation Gain: 720m Elevation Loss: 297m

Day 7 – Trek Jau Bari 2315m
We divided a long day into two short ones to avoid a 1500 meter ascent in one day, but if people are fit we can do it all the same day; we did this the past two years but it’s a bit daunting.

We start the morning with a steep climb on stone steps, passing through the many dwellings of upper Salpa Phedi, and then keep climbing with increasingly amazing views down the valley, the layers of hills various shades of icy-blue below us. It will take us several hours of climbing to reach Jau Bari, a village where they grow the best barley in the region and where there is a Sherpa gompa (monastery) just below a small campsite below the Sherpa Lodge. We set up camp here, have lunch and enjoy the lazy afternoon. (B, L, D)
Distance: 3.21km Elevation Gain: 643m Elevation Loss: 0m

Day 8 – Trek Gurase 3000m
We have another short day of steep climbing, first past the last terraced fields of Jau Bari, afterwards past several walled, grassy resting spots with views and then through rhododendron and oak forests, increasingly thick. Over an hour of climbing later, the shrill forest birds signalling our path, the trail leaves the cloud forest, hugs the side of the hill, opens up and after passing a large rock in the middle of the trail we crest the small ‘Guranse La’. Just after a short descent, we pass the turnoff to Salpa Lake where there is an important summertime festival and two others at various times during the year. There is also an alternative trail to the Salpa La (3430m) from here. Soon afterwards we reach Gurase, a small hamlet with three Sherpa houses which translates as ‘best rhododendrons’. The village below us is called Chayaksila. We set up camp in back of one of these houses on one of the only flat plateaus in sight, and are treated to a breath-taking sunset and sunrise. It will be colder here, so you’ll want your down jacket for the evening. Collect some firewood to keep warm and we’l build a blazing fire when the afternoon clouds move in. (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.04km Elevation Gain: 1,032m Elevation Loss: 0m

Day 9 – Trek Tiu 2670m | Cross Salpa Bhanjyang 3360m
Onto the pass! The Salpa Bhanjyang (3360m) with its single, large chorten on top, is the border of the Bhojpur and the Solu Khumbu districts. We’ve now entered the predominently Sherpa section of the Solu Khumbu region. It’s a short ascent, just over an hour, to the chorten-topped and windy pass where we have wonderful views of snow-capped Karylung Peak to the west. We descend steeply through the forest on a stone-step trail that is always snow-covered and pass a small local doksa half-way down. Following the small stream and several mani walls to the Lidung Khola, we cross to the north bank and continue on to Whaka with its few Rai tea-houses; we’ll stop for lunch here.

An hour or so afterwards we reach the picturesque Sherpa village of Sanam. Sanam, ‘the land of the sky’, is a lovely village with traditional Sherpa houses, terraced fields, a large, white-washed chorten and an intimate village gompa. From Sanam it’s an easy half an hour further descent through open forest to camp at the small hamlet of Tiu, where we set up camp in a grassy site and get ready for a few beers in the evening. We’ll have the afternoon free, enough time to explore and enjoy the scenic surroundings behind the bamboo grove. (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.43km Elevation Gain: 574m Elevation Loss: 1,041m

Day 10 – Trek Gudel 1965m
Leaving pleasant Tiu, we contour along a high trail with broad views, and soon arrive at the rustic gompa at Nimtsola village with its new Guru Rimpoche statue; past this village, Sherpa influence ends and the land of the Rai begins. The Rais, who speak an ancient, non-written language called Kiranti, were some of the earliest hill-inhabitants of the Nepal middle hills, a stout, attractive and proud ethnic group which you will see all over the Everest region, and winning most of the high-altitude races. The trail is now larger as we contour another few hours along the hillside, passing a local paper ‘factory’ en route, and finally reaching the many buffalo huts and terraces fields of the large Rai village of Gudel Phedi. The equally sprawling village of Bung and the Naulekh mountains are visible in the distance, as is Mera Peak to the far right as we enter the village. Just over the ridge, we descend steeply on slate steps to our campsite in back of Namaste Lodge at Gudel.

Gudel is a very interesting, picturesque and traditional village of Kulung Rai, with approximately five hundred houses and a large school partially funded by an Australian INGO with 650 students. We have scheduled a long afternoon here to explore and take photos of the colorful dwellings and chat with the welcoming villagers. The Rais grow a diverse variety of crops, which include wheat, corn, potatoes, barley, millet and ‘sag’, a local spinach-like green. You’ll see the corn, actually maize, drying from racks above the ground, wicker baskets stacked on the decks and pigs, chickens and roosters freely roaming the village. The village is also reported to grow the most delicious taro in the region, so we’ll search out some for dinner.

Last year we arrived in time for two Rai weddings, very social events involving unending brass and copper vessels of chang and raksi, roaming Nepali musicians playing Central Asian instruments, dancing and endless plates of Rai fare. Lots of fun! (B, L, D)
Distance: 4.82km Elevation Gain: 4m Elevation Loss: 580m

Day 11 – Trek Kiraunle Gompa 2540m
We’ll start early as it’s a long day, beginning with a steep, six hundred meter descent through rice paddies and cardamom plants, on slippery stone slabs, to the bridge over the river far below us (1325m). We cross a long, wooden bridge and begin the equally steep ascent to the large, Rai village of Bung. Following the stream on a rock trail, we ascend a switch-backing trail after crossing the Hungu Khola; Bung begins soon afterwards and continues upwards, built on the hillside, the lowest houses of the village about three hundred meters below the upper reaches. Bung means ‘beautiful flower’ in Rai, and is indeed a lovely, bustling village renowned for its tongba, or millet beer. It has received much development aid recently as partly because so many of the Rai men from Bung are trekking porters, guides or cook at the lodges in the Khumbu. Villagers will be selling oranges at the start of the village, and half way up there is a big school. We usually trek up to the school with the kids, who seem always to be late for the morning exercises and skip up the steep, stone steps. A few minutes above the school are several shops where you can pick up a coke, snack or possibly oranges. The entrance to the Makalu Barun National Park is just across the trail.

We keep climbing, and eventually the trail flattens a bit, and we continue to trek with great views and cooler temperatures until we reach a small cluster of houses and a grassy plateau where we’ll stop for lunch. Just later, there is a small, friendly tea-house where we might stop for a glass of chai and give the owner some business. Just afterward is the local school of Kiraunle, with the green, Sherpa village of Kiraunle to the right, and a last steep climb on stone steps brings us to the grounds of Kiraunle-Chambaling Gompa, recently built, our campsite for the night. There is no permanent monk or lama in the gompa, but you can walk the mani-lined perimeter and take a look around inside the gompa walls.

If the porters arrive late, wander into the cozy kitchen of the Kiraunle Lodge, where the friendly owner might be brewing a pot of salt-butter tea. The temperature begins to cool down as we ascend, and the clouds often move in during the afternoons. Be ready for a chilly morning as well. (B, L, D)
Distance: 7.30km Elevation Gain: 1,059m Elevation Loss: 653m

Day 12 – Trek Sibuje 2660m
Another pass day, this time a two and a half to three hour hike up to the crest of the Surkie La. Heading straight up out of the campsite to the ancient, moss-covered chortens and mani walls on the ridge, we pass through an ancient rhododendron forest dripping with Spanish moss. After nearly two hours of hiking we reach the Kulung Rai hamlet of Charakot, really just a small group of tea-houses and a grazing ‘ghot’. Soon afterwards past another few tea-houses and more mani walls we reach the Surkie La (3070 m). There are better views at the sightseeing platform just above the narrow ‘pass’ ridge where we’ll be able to see Karyolung, Khatang and Numbur, so head up for a look. The descent is steep, down a rocky trail and through a forest of bamboo, and soon we arrive at the scenic grazing area of Najing Dingma, a tiny hamlet and grazing area with a few small tea houses and shops, set on a flat, green section of the hillside.

We leave Najing Dingma and descend through a leafy woods for an hour to Gai Kharka (a kharka is a seasonal grazing settlement in Nepali, and gai means cow), another small village of only a few thatched huts, and continue descending steeply to the rickety bridge (built by the Himalayan Trust, obviously many years ago) high above the Inkhu Khola. From here, we’ve got a steep ascent of which the owner of the small Nepali tea-house near the bridge said ‘it’s so steep that even the monkeys fall off’. Enough said, it’s a steep climb of two to three hours to the next village, but as we gain altitude we’re treated to spectacular views up and down the Inkhu Valley, eventually spotting Mera Peak looming in front of us. Sibuje (the local Sherpa name is Ningso, which means dense bamboo forest) is a large village at 2660 meters, spread out over the hillside, market by Tibetan prayer flags at the lower end, with two local tea-houses just past the flag and a small gompa at the upper reaches. We’ll be happy to reach our campsite in lower Sibuje, a lovely, a grassy plateau carved out from the hillside, in back of which is a friendly Sherpa lodge. Tongba sometimes available … (B, L, D)
Distance: 9.29km Elevation Gain: 1,497m Elevation Loss: 1,089m

Day 13 – Trek Panggom 2900m | Cross Panggom (Satu) La 3175m
After breakfast, we’ll only have an hour of climbing to reach the two small tea houses below the pass, and then another hour to reach the Pangum La (or Satu La) pass, at 3175 meters. We see the trail from Jiri, the Trakshindo La, and the incredibly scenic Sherpa village of Pangum below, and in half an hour reach our scenic campsite in back of a friendly Sherpa lodge. Pangggom has a few quite nice lodges, a Hillary school, fields marked by wooden fences and a Tibetan Buddhist gompa off to the northern side of the village. We’ll have a fantastic sunset out over the wide open valley, with Karyolung rising majestically in front of us, across the Dudh Kosi (the ‘milk river’ that leads to the Khumbu region). (B, L, D)
Distance: 3.24km Elevation Gain: 415m Elevation Loss: 284m

Day 14 – Trek Phakepani 2775m
The camping has been great, but we’ll welcome the next few nights in cozy Sherpa lodges from now on. Heading out of town past the long rows of old mani walls, we look out at the hilltop village of Kharikhola in the distance, but veer right on a smaller, wooded trail towards the small hamlet of Kharte two and a half hours away and then the Khari La (‘wide pass’). Once fortified with a cup of tea at Kharte, it will take us a good hour and a half of contouring and climbing to crest the pass at 3075m meters, but the views are amazing from the top. We’ll have our first view of the sacred Sherpa peak, Khumbu Yul Lha (Khumbila), and Gyachen Kang, and then Kusum Kangaru just around the corner. It’s a quick descent on a rocky trail to the main Jiri trail, and then just another half and hour to the charming village of Puiyan, where we’ll stop for lunch at the Beehive Lodge. Another enjoyable hour of hiking along a wide trail with broad views and over a small ridge brings us to Phakepani, where we’ll bed down at Ang Dali’s Mountain View Lodge for the night, a real Sherpa experience. Showers, cold beer and tongba are available, so clean up and head to the warm kitchen table for the evening … (B, L, D)
Distance: 16.75m Elevation Gain: 1,134m Elevation Loss: 1,281m

Day 15 – Trek Monjo 2840m | Cross Chutok La
After a good night’s sleep and a lodge-cooked breakfast, we head through the long village of Puiyan, past the lively school, and stay relatively level for a few hours. Getting closer to the upper Khumbu region, we continue to contour around hillsides, just below a small pass called Chutok La to another small hamlet of Surke from where we have a glimpse of the Kongde Massif (Nupla peak) and across (up) the valley, Lukla. After crossing a suspension bridge, a gradual incline and gentle series of cobbled steps leads us below Lukla to Chaunrikharka, where we amble along an old, walled trail pass many traditional Sherpa houses, mani walls and fields of barley, potatoes and vegetables, a dramatic entrance to the Upper Khumbu region. We continue through this magical village pasts more mani walls until we reach Chheplung, a village of checkered fields and a few small lodges.

Many wonderful days later we have met the main Lukla trekking route to Everest Base Camp and the Gokyo Valley, so will see a few more trekkers, although not so many in December. From here, the mountain views keep getting more and more spectacular as we head north towards the turquoise Gokyo Lakes. Up valley rises the sacred peak of Khumbila, a black triangle that dominates the valley. From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while crossing the metal bridge, we have our first view of the three statues peaks of Kusum Khangkaru to the east. Half an hour of lovely trekking over cobbled trails brings us to Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and prayer flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat, is responsible for this magical setting. The inscriptions on the carved mani rocks is either ‘Om Mani Padme Hung’ (‘Hail to the jewel in the lotus”, the mantra for the next lifetime) or ‘Om Ma A Hung Baja Guru Padma Side Hung’ (the mantra to Guru Rimpoche to remove obstacles). Once at Phakding, a lively village a half hour’s walk from Ghat, we will stop for lunch at Ang Sani and Jangbu’s Shangri La Lodge. Their son, Nawang, has just opened a stylish cafe with great cappuccinos.

Hiking by the small tea houses servicing the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi, past the new lodges and trek above the river, climbing through evergreen forests to reach the first lodge of Benkar. Look up to the protruding rocks for Himalayan thar, and some of the rocks that we pass are almost remelted granites or migmatypes, rocks similar to gneiss but with more swirls. Continuing over a small bridge, we continue through larger Benkar, the first village to attend the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, several small tea houses serving local fare, and another climb, and we reach Chumoa, with apple and peach trees that bloom in the springtime. One more small bridge and a last climb on uneven stone steps to reach Monjo, where we stop at the wonderful Kailash Lodge, run by Yangti Sherpa, for the night. Many of the cottages with views also have hot showers, we’ll secure as many as possible of these rooms!

Monjo is a small Sherpa village tucked away in the forests high above the Dudh Kosi where Kim taught English years ago, only the newer part of the village visible from the trail. There is a newly reconstructed monastery above the school, and above that a steep drop-off and good view of tomorrow’s hike. (6 hrs) (B, L, D) 
Distance: 17.15km Elevation Gain: 1,087m Elevation Loss: 1,003m

Day 16 – Trek Namche Bazaar 3465m/11,365′
After a short walk past the school with Khumbila Peak (or Khumbu Yul La) looming majestically ahead of us, we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Descending steeply on a stony trail to the river, we cross a long suspension bridge to reach the hamlet of Jorsale, and then cross one more long bridge before taking the high trail up the stone steps and through the forest, trekking above the lower trail that follows the sandy riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded river rocks. We trek for about 45 minutes to reach the long, iconic suspension bridge.

Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer flags to hang on the bridge over the confluence of the Dudh Kosi (‘milk river’) and the Bhote Kosi (‘river from Tibet’) and send prayers out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half climb to Namche on a dusty, rocky, switch-backing trail is broken halfway up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Local women sell delicious oranges at this resting point, which we’ll share for sure with other trekkers. Another 45 minutes of climbing, mostly off the main trail amongst the evergreens, and we arrive at the old trading village of Namche Bazaar, now a thriving trekking metropolis. We’ll have a short tour of the shopping and bakeries in Namche before heading up steep stone steps to our guest house, Natang and Pemba’s idyllic Moonlight Lodge, scenically situated at the top of Namche (and with great showers!)

Namche Bazaar, once called Nauje and now the most prosperous trading village on the old trade route with Tibet sits in an amphitheater surrounded by mountains. From Namche we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front of us, Kangtega, Thamserku and Kusum Khangkuru to the east and Khumbila to the back. Down-valley the hills and valleys along the route from Solu to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of steely-grey and blues. (3½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.5km, Elevation Gain: 816m, Elevation Loss: 164m

Day 17 – Namche Bazaar | Acclimatization Day
If it’s Saturday Market day (which starts on Friday), we will spend the morning exploring the bustling market, a feast of colors, smells, and colorfully clad Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly event. It’s as much a social gathering as the produce, meat, and essential goods market, so the atmosphere is spirited and lively, a great photographic opportunity.

You are free to relax and explore the crowded main streets of Namche, the Sherpa Cultural Center (wonderful photographic museum), the reconstructed traditional Sherpa house (next door), the very interesting Namche Gonpa Visitors Center at the colorful Namche Gonpa and/or the National Park Headquarters Museum (where you’ll have easy views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse and more). The Tibetans used to encamp in the center of town in a muddy bazaar (potato fields in the summer) touting their goods from China. Indulge yourself at one of the many bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan hats, chat with the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for the trek. There are now new Mountain Hardwear and Sherpa Gear shops as well as Tsedam’s Gear Shop with a great variety of real trek gear if you find that you’re missing warm clothes. All often have gear on sale, bonus! Watch out for dzobkios and shaggy Himalayan cows wandering the narrow streets.

For some peak-spotting at sunset, hike up ten minutes just past the National Park headquarters. For a higher viewpoint, climb steeply to any of several viewpoints an hour+ walk straight up the ridge (above the huge mani stone at the top of the steps). Continue just past Syangboche airstrip, worth the effort for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Khangkuru, Tarboche and Ama Dablam.

Moonlight Lodge has a great hot shower, a large library, beer and wine in the cabinet, and delicious home-cooked food so there is really no reason to leave at all if you’re feeling lethargic or enjoying basking in the sunny dining room. Later in the afternoon, you might spot yaks or dzos wandering into the backyard of the Moonlight Lodge. These will be ours, with our yak-drivers Pasang, Mingma and/or Pemba and will all accompany us for the rest of the trek. (B, L, D) 

Day Hike – Trek Khumjung 3800m/12,465′ + Khunde 3855m/12,638′
Kim and Lhakpa will lead a scenic and cultural high trek through the twin valleys of Khunde and Khumjung valley, finishing the hike at Doma Tseri’s Khunde Guest House. Taking advantage of the crisp morning light, we hike up to large mani stone, turning right around the rock and switchbacking up the hill, stopping at the prayer flag-covered rock along the way. We head for the Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, passing through the airstrip at Syangboche en route. On the ridge above the airstrip, we climb gradually on tundra to a large, whitewashed chorten to the right of the yak-breeding center. From here we climb briefly to a small hill topped with chulung (memorial chortens) for fabulous views of Kumbila, Tabuche, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtega, Kusum Khangkuru, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We trek down to Khumjung along a small, scenic trail through rhododendrons. We may spot Himalayan tahr grazing on the hillsides, and possibly iridescent danphe and chortling chukars.

Descending into magical Khumjung (marketed as the Green Valley), we walk through the entrance chorten and past a long, beautiful mani wall and the old Khumjung school, established by Hillary in the 70s. We’ll contour through ancient rock walls through the lower half of the village to Khumjung Gompa, one of the oldest in the Khumbu (approximately 500 years) and home to the only existing Yeti scalp on the planet.

The adjoining villages of Khumjung and Khunde are some of the original villages of the Khumbu region, both about 600 years old and wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks, potato patches and wood and slate houses. Perhaps we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak surrounded by lhaso (shrines to mountain deities), above a famous rock mural of Guru Rimpoche. The views of Ama Dablam from this valley are breathtaking. Heading up the valley to neighboring Khunde, we continue to trek through trails lined by lichen-covered stone walls, past traditional Sherpa houses, to Khunde Hospital, where Lhakpa’s uncle Dr Kami Sherpa is the head doctor.

Next door, at Khunde Guest House, we will enjoy a delicious Sherpa lunch in the sunroom, including their famous chili sauce. The lodge has expansive mountain views from the warm, glass-windowed dining room. After dropping extra gear in our lodge rooms, we’ll head out for a great hike up to the Hillary Memorial and then return to the lodge, happily tired and ready for a home-cooked Sherpa meal back in the dining room for sunset.

HILLARY MEMORIAL | The side trip to Hillary Memorial (4250m), locally referred to as Gong Ri, is a relatively easy hike (approximately 45-minutes) along a gradually ascending trail through a hillside lightly wooded with fir and juniper above Khunde Monastery. Just before reaching the monastery, take the intersecting trail heading left to a scenic ridge with a nearly 360-degree view of Himalayan peaks. The dramatic ridge top setting was dedicated as a memorial to Edmund Hillary’s wife, Louise, and his 16-year-old daughter, Belinda, who died tragically in a plane crash just outside of Kathmandu in 1975. The plane was heading to Phaplu Airstrip. Just above the memorial to Louise and Belinda Hillary is a chorten built by local Khunde inhabitants to honor Sir Edmund Hillary.

Views from the memorial include Everest, Lhotse, Nupte, Tabuche, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Kusum Kangkaru, Kwongde and Pharchamo, as well as the twin villages of Khunde and Khumjung just below Khunde Gompa, Shyangboche, Namche and Monjo down the valley, and Tengboche and Pangboche to the north. From the ridge, look to the west to the Thame valley leading to the Nangpa La, once an important Tibetan trade route. The narrow valley before the Thame valley is rumored to be the home of several yetis. (IF returning to Namche, descend from the memorial along the same trail, or head straight down the ridge towards Shyangboche, cutting back towards Khunde to meet the main trail back to Namche as well as the trail leading west towards Thame. You can bushwack your way directly down to Namche but it takes some work, and the trails are only for woodcutters or musk deer. On the plus side, you’ll encounter the many colorful Danphe en route!) (4+ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 5.4km, Elevation Gain: 496m, Elevation Loss: 112m

LOW ROUTE TO KYANGJUMA | Stay high, contouring around several hillsides far above the Dudh Kosi and stopping for views of Everest and Lhotse at the two whitewashed chortens. (The first chorten is a newer memorial to Tenzin Norgay). Two hours after leaving Namche we reach Tashi and Lhakpa’s Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. Continuing along the main trail through a lovely rhododendron forest we take a sharp left at the intersecting trail leading to Gokyo and ascend the steep trail up to the bridge which intersects the old trail from Khumjung. 

Day 18 – Trek Phortse 3780m/12,398′
Leaving Khunde (or Namche), we trek down through the walled villages to the end of the plateau, Ama Dablam looming majestically (and photographically) ahead. Along the flanks of sacred Khumbila, we pass ‘chu lung’, or memorial chortens, and ‘lhaso’, or sqaure chortens with sticks and prayer flags, edifices constructed for the local gods of the Khumbu. We will also see ‘kar sur’, which are square edifices for the gods in the middle of local fields. ‘Lhasa’ are the smaller edifices in front of Sherpa houses and lodges, ‘gods’  houses’ where incense is burned in offering every morning.

Taking the left fork, our trail intersects the trail from Namche at a metal bridge that spans a gap in the trail. From here we climb up stone steps, and stop for a rest at the top of the steps. Along the way, we are likely to see wildlife such as Himalayan Thar and the spectacularly hued danphe, Nepal’s national bird. Continuing to climb gradually for another hour or so, we reach Mong La, where we will stop for a scenic lunch at Boudha Lodge, perched spectacularly on this (nearly) 4000m ridge pass. Across the valley sits Tengboche Gompa, backed by Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru, its gilded rooftops glittering in the afternoon sun.

We have a steep descent through pine and rhododendron forests on a sandy, switchbacking trail, with stone steps hugging the cliffside on the lower half, to Phortse Tenga. Just past the lodges and ancient, mossy mani walls, hiking through woods of birch, we cross the river on a steel bridge and start the short but steep climb up to Phortse, one of the oldest villages of the Khumbu region. Keep your eyes open and cameras out as there are many musk deer, danphe, and blood pheasants hiding in the rhododendron forests bordering the trail and the village. The danphe dig for potatoes in the lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings, near the ancient chorten at the end of the fields. At the top of the village is Phortse Gonpa, funded by ‘Papa Tony’ who also funded the village’s hydro-electric power many years ago.

We stay at Phortse Guest House, which has a wonderful dining room, great views and good electricity, run by a lovely Sherpa couple, Ba Nuru and his wife Pasang. Ba Nuru is a many-time Everest climber and one of the main participants in the Phortse Climbing School, founded by Conrad Anker and his wife Jenny. The impressive new Phortse Climbing Center, with a medical post and climbing wall, is right in back of the lodge, and there is a lovely new bakery and cafe attached to the back of the lodge. (6½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 8.2km, Elevation Gain: 549m, Elevation Loss: 617m

Day 19 – Trek Dole 4050m
Leaving Namche (or Phortse) and heading back up the hill, we turn right at the large mani stone at the top of the village and hike along a wide trail to the prayer flag on the pole at the next corner. From here it’s easy trekking high above the Dudh Kosi heading north, contouring around several ridges and past the large, newly erected memorial chorten where we’ll be treated to fantastic views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam rising high above the valley. About an hour later we reach Tashi & Lhakpa’s Ama Dablam Lodge in Kyangjuma, perched dramatically on a steep hillside overlooking the peak of the same name. Their pet yak will by in the morning for some grub, and Tashi has some of the best shopping in the Everest region, so we’ll have a short stop here. Continuing along the main trail, we veer sharply left at the intersection of Gokyo and Tengboche, and take the steep trail up to the bridge which intersects with the old trail from Khumjung. We climb gradually, first on stone steps and then on a smaller trail, for another hour of so to Mong La, where we will have lunch on the deck of Boudha Lodge, perched spectacularly on this 4000 meter ridge. It’s a wonderful spot overlooking both the Gokyo and Kala Pattar valleys, with a breath-taking panorama of peaks: Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Malan Palan, Taboche and the newly named Kamzang Peak. Phortse, one of the oldest villages in the Everest region, is perched at the intersection of the Khumbu & Gokyo valleys in front of us. The misty layers of the hills and valleys south of us are visible down-valley, as are Monjo and the bridge to Jorsale. Walk out on the ridge and look down on Tengboche Gompa on the ridge across the Dudh Kosi.

After lunch we descend steeply, through a forest of pine and rhododendron on a steep switchbacking trail and then on stone steps, to Phortse Tenga. Tenga means riverside, so after descending we immediately ascend again on the higher trail at the intersection of Phortse and the Gokyo valley. The route is beautiful, past frozen waterfalls, up cathedral-like stone staircases, through old rhododendron and Himalayan Birch forests, across small rivers and past tiny Sherpa settlements. The forest is home to several musk deer, shy creatures which peer out at us through the tangle of rhododendron. We arrive a few hours later, having had our first view of the 8000 meter Cho Oyu, at the summer herding settlement of Dole, where we stop for the night at either Kami’s Himalayan Lodge or Urkien and Kanchi Maya’s Yeti Lodge. Dole translates as ‘plenty of stones’, and anyone who has extra energy can cross the stony streambed and ascend either of the neighboring ridges for some good Himalayan views. It’s a cold spot; the sun drops below the ridge at 2:30, but it comes up early in the morning to make up for a chilly evening. Huddle around the stove and enjoy a Himalayan evening …
Distance: 10.05km Eevation Gain: 833m Elevation Loss: 508m

Day 20 – Trek Macherma 4430m 
We continue up the Gokyo valley on similar tundra-like terrain with well-worn trails cutting paths in the hard-packed earth. We’ll be gaining elevation as we trek along the ftrail high above the valley floor, Cho Oyu looming in front of us at the border of Nepal and Tibet for the later part of the walk. We pass some small Sherpa herding huts en route, the first a singular lodge above local Sherpa huts. and after a few more hours of trekking we arrive at the charming yak-herding settlement of Luza. This is one of the many seasonal settlements of the Khunde and Khumjung inhabitants; the next one is Macherma, which we reach 45 minutes later, having climbed steeply out of Dole to a set of prayer flags marking the end of the settlement, and ascending and descended once again to Macherma. Macherma is the name of a local female goddess, who we hope will bless our stay here!

We’ll get some rooms at the quite luxurious Tibetan-styled Namgyal Lodge, and enjoy some good Sherpa cooking around the warm dining room stove. Try the ‘thukpa’. Namgyal is half Sherpa and half Tibetan and plays the ‘damye’, or Tibetan guitar. Again, anyone wanting an afternoon hike can climb up the ridges on either side of Macherma.
Distance: 9.37km Elevation Gain: 973m Elevation Loss: 367m

Day 21 – Trek Gokyo 4800m
Another sublime trekking day heading to Gokyo and the Gokyo lakes at 4800 meters. Another climb to start the day; we hike up to the prayer flags and cairns on the ridge and then descent gently with Fanga, a single lodge across the river from the seasonal village of Nha, a half hour ahead of us. Past Fanga where the trail narrows, we descent and then climb on stone steps on an often icy trail, with frozen waterfalls to our left. We reach the confluence of the Dudh Kosi coming from the Gokyo valley and the stream coming from the Nzozumba Glacier and cross this river on a small metal bridge. We’ve reached the idyllic Gokyo valley, with the small first lake, now partially filled with algae, surrounded by sculptural cairns just ahead. Ruddy Shelducks float on the far end of this lake as well as the next two.

In the Gokyo valley the character of the trekking changes abruptly. The opaque powder-blue lakes are often on the verge of freezing over, and sometimes perform a Himalayan symphony of expanding and retracting ice. We have entered the grassy ablation valley running beside the Ngozumpa Glacier; we continue trekking on a rocky, winding trail for half an hour to the second lake and soon after have our first sight of Gokyo, a seasonal village and grazing area built beside the third, and biggest lake. Gokyo has become something of a Himalayan resort without the crowd – at least in terms of the comfortable lodges with sunrooms, unbeatable views, excellent food and warm stoves. A more spectacular setting is difficult to imagine, and our guesthouse, the Cho Oyu Lodge, perfectly situated on the lake-side, is a little piece of heaven. Dali Sherpa, our host, is always ready with a smile and a laugh, and with her son Tenzin and daughter Ang Tashi helping at the lodge you’ll feel right at home. (We’ll stay at the Gokyo Resort or Namaste Lodge if Cho Oyu is closed for the season).

Lured into the wonderful sun-room, it is easy to spend the rest of the day chatting with fellow trekkers, watching shaggy yaks amble their way in and around Gokyo (sometimes casually sticking their heads inside the lodges) and admiring the lake-side views. Wander along the lateral moraine overlooking the Khumbu glacier for sunset, just a ten minute walk above Gokyo …
Distance: 6.99km Elevation Gain: 434m Elevation Loss: 55m

Day 22 – Gokyo
After breakfast we’ll cross the small, glacial stream, jumping over the stone ‘bridge’ to get to the base of Gokyo Ri (5360m), just five minutes from the lodge. It will take us about two hours of switch-backing to reach the prayer-flag festooned summit; take your time as the views down valley past Gokyo lake are great the whole way up. From the top, we are treated to a spectacular, 360 degree panorama of the Gokyo lakes, the glacial moraine and the surrounding Himalayan giants; Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu among many others. To the west is the Renjo La (4515 meters) pass, the gateway to the Thame Valley and the Nangpa La, which the Tibetans cross with their yaks en route to Namche.

A free day in Gokyo, with lots to do! If you didn’t get up Gokyo Ri yesterday you’ll have another chance to get to the top and enjoy the views today. Another option is a beautiful day hike up the Gokyo valley, past two or three more glacial lakes, heading towards the massive, white massif of Cho Oyu. There are several trails that snake up this valley, one emerging on the ridge overlooking the creaking glacier, another passing the eerily deserted fourth lake with it’s white, stony beach, and all with views of Everest and the Himalayan range. The unobstructed view of Everest from Scoundrel’s Point (4995m) is a great reward for the walk. A third option is an hour’s hike around Cho La Lake, passing the beach and Buddhist and Hindu ‘temples’ on the opposite side. Or just sit by the lake and relax. You ARE on vacation …
Distance: 3.47km Elevation Gain: 575m Elevation Loss: 575m

Day 23 – Trek Lunak 5070m
Coming …

Trek 24 – Trek Jasaba
Coming …

Day 25 – Jasamba | Trek Nangpa La + Jasamba
An exciting day today as we head off in the morning, towards the Nangpa La pass, a high Himalayan pass connecting Nepal to Tibet, and a traditional salt trade and pilgrimage route connecting Tibet with the Sherpas of the Khumbu region, still used until very recently when the borders were closed by China. The pass is very close to Cho Oyo, and just north of Everest. The Nangpa La is notorious for the 2006 shootings. 

From Wikipedia: ” … From this pass the Mahalangur section of the Himalaya extend east past Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Ama Dablam and Makalu to the gorge of the Arun River. The Rolwaling Himalayas including Gauri Sankar and Melungtse rise west and southwest of the pass. In 1951 Dane Klaus Becker-Larsen and two Sherpas attempted the North Col, but turned back because of rockfall. He had minimal equipment and no mountaineering experience. He may have been the first Westener to reach Nangpa La.

The 1952 British Cho Oyu expedition led by Eric Shipton established a base at Lunak below the Nangpa La Pass. Shipton wanted to avoid any clashes with Chinese troops, but eventually agreed to a camp just short of the Nangpa La, and to send a party to attempt the first crossing of the Nup La pass which could be quickly withdrawn if Chinese troops were sighted. But Ed Hillary, George Lowe and three Sherpas crossed the Nup La col and then went “deep into Chinese territory” like “a couple of naughty schoolboys”.

In 2006, Chinese border guards of the People’s Armed Police (PAP) opened fire on 75 unarmed Tibetan refugees as they traversed waist-deep snow in the Nangpa La shooting incident, killing 17-year-old Buddhist nun Kelsang Namtso and leading to the disappearance of a further 17 refugees. Despite an attempted Chinese coverup, several foreign climbers at base camps on Cho Oyu managed to video and photograph the situation as it unfolded and the events drew widespread international condemnation when shown to the outside world.”

Day 26 – Trek Lungden 4375m
Trekking back down valley towards the permanent settlements of the valley, we reach the hamlet of Lungden, below the Renjo La (just south of Aria). We stay at the newly renovated Renjo Support Lodge, owned by Ngawang Sangay and his wife Pasi (often Pasi’s sister Sani is also working at the lodge). Ngawang Sangay divides his time between Nepal and Japan, is from Khumjung but runs the lodge in the small, walled, and seasonal hamlet of Lungden. Again, the views are wonderful from the lodge so don’t be lured inside all afternoon by the warm stove. We have trekked down to one of the few still-traditional Sherpa valleys of the otherwise well-trekked Khumbu region. (8 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.6km, Elevation Gain: 626m, Elevation Loss: 1,014m

Day 27 – Trek Thame 3805m/12,480′
Today’s Himalayan hike is a step back in time as we pass by many old, walled Sherpa villages, seasonal settlements of the Thame and Thamo villagers. We used to share the trail with Tibetan yak caravans, Khampas trading en route to and from Namche and Tibet with the villagers. We’ll cross an icy stream, jumping from stone to stone before crossing the last section on a small wooden bridge, and follow a high trail above the Bhote Kosi through Marulung (4210m). Just past Marlung, we cross an intersecting stream on a Bailey Bridge; from the climb just afterward we take the higher trail and trek through the top of the traditional Sherpa village of Tarnga, where Sherpa folklore tells of a yeti massacre. Sherpas from throughout the Thame valley own land for growing potatoes in Tarnga, once a seasonal settlement that only grew barley. Above to the left is the triangular, snow-covered Langmuche Ri (6344m).

Just before reaching Thame Thang, we have the option to make a short detour to the small Nyimgmapa Kerok Gompa (Kyarong Sang-Naag Choling Gompa, 3870m), with an intimate courtyard and a new museum. When we reach Thame Thang, we hike past a series of chortens and mani walls, and through the Sherpa village to reach Lhakpa’s sister Serki (and our dzo owner Pasang)’s modest Sherpa house. We’ll stop for a feast of Sherpa potato pancakes and tea for lunch, always a highlight. Their daughter Mingma Choki, who attended Khumjung School used to come to Thame to meet us but now studies in Kathmandu. Mingma’s older sister Pasang Lhamu, finished her schooling at Khumjung and college (+2) in Kathmandu, and in 2022 was applying to universities. And she now works at our Cafe Caravan in Boudha! Their cousin Sonam Chhuten, used to attend Thame School (where she walked 2 hours each way every day from Mende) but now boards at Khumjung School. The Kamzang Fund has sponsored these three lovely girls for their educations for many years, as well as their other cousin Zangmu, also from Thame.

Trekking past the new stupa, we have a small ridge to climb before looking down on the scenic and traditional village of Thame. Thame is an old village of snaking rock walls, yak paddocks, and traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa, perched up to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and one of the gompas that celebrates the Dunche festival in the summertime. We stay the night at Lhakpa’s uncle Doctor Kami (of Khunde Hospital) and his wife Dawa Dolma’s Valley View Lodge, with the best tongba (fermented millet beer, served in a bamboo container with a long straw and hot water) in the Khumbu. The lovely cook’s lively daughter is named Chandika, and was 10 years old studying at Thame School in 2021, and The Kamzang Fund now sponsors Bipana Rai, age 12 and in class 3 in 2021, who used to stay with Sonam Chhuten’s family. 

Take the afternoon to climb to Thame Gonpa, one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and wander around the walled village. Lhakpa’s niece and our yak driver Mingma’s daughter Doma Tenzing teaches at the Thame School, and was also aided in finishing her college degree in Kathmandu The Kamzang Fund. She is now married and living along tomorrow’s trail to Namche. Kunga Palmo, her sister Doma Rigzin’s 5-year-old daughter, also attends kingergarten (2021) in Thame.

To the west of Thame near the Tashi Labsta La (5755m) which leads to the Rolwaling Valley is Papchermo Ri (6273m), and Sundar Peak (5360m) is just to the north of Thame, a day-climb. (4 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 11.4km, Elevation Gain: 280m, Elevation Loss: 863m

Day 28 – Trek Namche | via Khari Ani Gompa + Lawudo Gompa 3900m/12,792′
Back to Namche, the Moonlight Lodge, hot showers, good food, and cold beers after a beautiful walk from Thame back to Namche. Leaving Thame, we pass Mingma’s house (another yak man, Lhakpa’s cousin, Doma Tenzing’s father) and their newly reconstructed house gompa and prayer wheel. We might stop in at Lhakpa’s younger sister, Pelhamo’s house (where Lhakpa grew up) in the lower end of the village for a cup of tea if she is not in Mende, the family’s winter home. Continuing to descend past ancient, carved mani walls, we cross the deep ravine on a Bailey bridge and gaze up at the wonderful murals of Guru Rimpoche and other Buddhist figures on a rock face high over the Bhote Kosi. We trek through lovely Samde, which has small shrines to mountain deities in the middle of their fields, and then stop for a visit to the beautifully reconstructed Khari Nunnery (ani gompa), which houses lovely nuns originally from Tibet.

KHARI GOMPA | “In 1959, as the Chinese Cultural Revolution raged through Tibet destroying Buddhist monasteries and artifacts and killing thousands of monks and nuns, Khari Rinpoche Lobsang Tsultrim and some of his students fled Tibet. He and his followers crossed over the treacherous Nangpa La (pass) into Nepal and found refuge in the foothills of the Himalayas near Mount Everest. They settled in the village of Thamo. In 1962 some Thamo villagers offered land and in 3 days built a monastery for the nuns and their Lama on the hillside above the village. This became Khari Gonpa, a small Tibetan Buddhist nunnery. By 2002 the prayer hall (lhakang) at the nunnery was too small to accommodate the nuns and local community of Sherpas and Tibetans, and it was in serious disrepair. At that time, His Holiness the Dalai Lama requested the 3rd Khari Rinpoche Tenzin Yonten to design and build a new prayer hall in the same location as the original one. Today the magnificent new lhakang is finished.” – Tara Foundation USA

After a visit to the nunnery, we pass through the scenic village of Thamo where the Nepal army used to have a customs post to control the Tibetan trade over the Nangpa La. The pass is now, sadly, closed to Tibetan traders. An option to visit Lawudo Gompa below, in which case you miss seeing the ani gompa.

LAWUDO GOMPA SIDE TRIP | We can make a side trip to Lawudo Gompa (3900m), affiliated with the renowned Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu, tucked away above Thamo and Mende villages. We take an alternative (and rarely used by trekkers) trail which climbs steeply to the small gompa where Guru Rimpoche meditated in a small cave en route to Tibet. The monk or ani (nun) staying in this magical retreat will inevitably treat us to tea while we take in the spectacular views from the gompa steps. Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, looms overhead, prayer flags from the gompa providing the perfect Himalayan foreground. The local monk, Nawang Chhuldim, assured Kim that this was one of the most beautiful spots in the Khumbu when Kim first happened upon this isolated gompa, high above the main trail. The cave the famous Rimpoche used has been turned into a tiny cave chapel, and there is an eclectic in-house library. Kim has a book on Lawudo Gompa, ask if you want some more history on this monastery.

We’ll have lunch with Lhakpa’s sister in Mende (if she is there and not in Thame), picnic-style in the yard of their local Sherpa stone and shingle house. Locally grown potato pancakes will be on the menu, a Sherpa specialty. From Mende, we drop steeply to the main trail and trek for an hour and a half to Namche, contouring high above the river on an undulating trail, passing two large chortens and ending at the Tibetan puja spot, adorned with thousands of lung-ta (prayer flags), and soon the Namche helipad where we’ll have great views down to the amphitheater of Namche. (4-6 hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 10.3km, Elevation Gain: 551m, Elevation Loss: 863m

Day 29 – Trek Lukla 2850m/9348′
Leaving Namche along the same trail that we hiked up over a week ago, we hike down the steep hill past the Everest viewpoint to the prayer flag-covered suspension bridge, continue on an hour along the lower trail to Jorsale where we cross the river yet again on a suspension bridge. Jorsale is the home of Phuru Diki, one of the girls THAT the Kamzang Fund has sponsored since class 3. After finishing nursing school (university) in Kathmandu, Phura Diki headed to Sydney to continue her studies, working on furthering her nursing education!

After one last steep hill to the National Park gate, we reach the welcome sight of Monjo, green with apple trees and checkered fields. We might run into Dali, the mother of Dawa Yangi and Nimalee, two Monjo sisters that the Kamzang Fund sponsored since class 3 as well. Dawa Yangi has finished her tourism degree in Kathmandu, and also has city and trekking guide licenses, while Nimalee was working at one the high-end lodges in the Khumbu and is now married with a daughter. We’ll stop for lunch 1½ hours away at Shangri La in Phakding, and finish the trek back at Dawa Phuti and Ang Pasang’s Eco Paradise Lodge in Lukla, where the adventurous can try some of Dawa’s famous Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room is one the nicest in the Everest region, so it’s always an added treat to return there after the trek.

Ang Pasang works closely with the airport, so we are in good hands for our flight out the next morning. We will give out tips and have a party for the Kamzang Journeys staff in the evening! (7-7½ hrs) (B, L, D)
Distance: 18.2km, Elevation Gain: 818m, Elevation Loss: 1,441m

Day 30 – Fly Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as we fly out of Lukla to Kathmandu early this morning. And taking off from the Hillary Airstrip is just as exciting as landing! Flights out of Lukla are sometimes delayed by bad weather, so we suggest booking an extra day in Kathmandu in case of cancellations. In Kathmandu, back at the Kathmandu Guest House, hot showers await, and grubby clothes can be dropped at the laundry. In the evening we’ll get together for dinner at one of Thamel’s many restaurants and celebrate our trek through the Everest region! (B)

TRAVEL NOTE | We strongly recommend scheduling an extra day in Kathmandu in case of flight delays or cancellations out of Lukla or Ramechhap.

Day 31 – Trip Ends
Transfer to the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for your flight home. Namaste!

Not Enough of Nepal?
We highly suggest taking advantage of your trip to Nepal, adding on excursions into the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, Bandipur, Gorkha, the Annapurna Foothills, and Chitwan and Bardia National Park. Enjoy heritage tours, mountain biking, Kathmandu valley hiking, Himalayan panoramas (and a hike down) from the Chandragiri Cable Car, whitewater rafting, yoga and meditation courses, Nepali cooking classes, Buddhist or Hindu retreats, and much more. There are many wonderful, boutique, luxury, and heritage lodges in the Kathmandu Valley, and many options for world heritage sightseeing tours, bicycle trips, hikes, and craft-cuisine tours. Nepal boasts world-class restaurants, chic cafes, timeless alleyways to wander through, countless Hindu and Buddhist festivals, and lots of great shopping.

Don’t miss an Everest sightseeing flight or epic helicopter tour, sightseeing trips to Bhaktapur, Patan, and Panauti (Kathmandu Valley’s other historic and/or capital cities), a weekend at Shivapuri Heights Resort or Dwarikas in Kathmandu, a night at the Fort Hotel in Nagarkot for sunrise and sunset Himalayan panoramas, a spa and wellness getaway at the ultra-luxurious Dwarikas Dhulikhel Resort and visits to ancient temple and monastery complexes such as Namo Buddha, Changu Narayan, and Dakshinkali. Spend a night at The Old Inn in Bandipur or Three Mountain Lodge en route to Pokhara, or The Famous Farm in Nuwakot, and get to know Nepal’s Newar heritage.

Enjoy a luxury 3-6 day trek in the Annapurna Foothills, staying in the wonderful Ker & Downey luxury lodges. Relax in heritage style at Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara for some pampering at the spa and infinity pool, try out paragliding, zip-lining, and enjoy a morning of boating on the lake and the hike to Shanti Stupa. Once refreshed, drive to Chitwan National Park, spending 2 or 3 nights at Maruni Sanctuary Resort or Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge for wildlife and bird spotting, river trips, and safaris in style. Tiger Tops also owns Karnali Lodge at Bardia National Park, reached by flight from Kathmandu, and there are nearby archeological sights to visit nearby.

Namaste!

Nepal Modules
Nepal & Kathmandu Modules | Customize Your Trip!

2021 Dates
TBA
31 Days

TBA (Makalu Barun to Lukla Camping Trek)
17 Days

Trek Price
$4880
$2980 (Makalu Barun to Lukla Camping Trek)

Hotel & Lodge Upgrades
+ Single Upgrade Lodges – $200, $225 + $250
+ Chhuserma | The Beyul Extra Trekking Day – $150

Everest Region Helicopter Prices
+ Helicopter Kathmandu – Lukla (and Lukla – Kathmandu) ($325 Per Person. Shared Helicopter 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Namche – Lukla (+$750 Per Helicopter. Max 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Tengboche or Pangboche-Lukla (+$1050 Per Helicopter. Max 5 Pax)
+ Helicopter Lobuche – Lukla (+$1500 Per Helicopter – Max 3 Pax)

Custom Treks
Private Departures Available | Choose Your Own Dates!

Includes

• Kathmandu Guest House (or Upgraded Boutique & Luxury Hotel)
• Kathmandu Lukla Kathmandu Fights
• Sagarmatha National Park Permits
• Local Expertise & 20+ Years of Experience in the Everest Region
• Local Khumbu & Kathmandu Support
• Options for Helicopter Flights
• Rescue Service (Cost Not Included)
• Oxygen Saturation Meter
• Airport Transfers
• Kamzang Lodge Trekking
  Meals & hot drinks from lodge menu, French Press coffee, filtered drinking water, double rooms at our Kamzang-approved Sherpa lodges, small medical kit & O2 monitor, Sherpa guide & porter(s), local support in the Khumbu with our network of Sherpa friends, office support in Kathmandu, local knowledge & 20+ years of experience in the Everest region!

Excludes

• International Flights
• Nepal Visa
• Trip Cancellation or Travel Medical Insurance
• Rescue Service Cost
• Helicopter Shuttle
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Equipment Rental
• Beer, Wine, Bottled Drinks + Bottled Water + Toilet Paper
• Bakery Items & Packaged Snacks
• Showers, Laundry & Battery Charging
• Hot Water Bottles or Boiled Drinking Water (To Fill Water Bottles)
• Tips

Tips & Extra Cash
Allow approx $250 – $350 for meals (while not on trek), drinks + extras (see ‘excluded items’) on trek and tips. We recommend $250 per trekker as tips for the staff.

Trip Advisor Reviews

Trek Highlights

• The Nangpa La Pass + Tibetan Border
• Combination of Camping + Lodge Trekking
• Remote Makalu Barun – Arun Salpa Valley Camping Trek – The Original Route to Everest
• Nepal’s Traditional Middle Hills – Mountain Views, Lively Villages, Diverse Ethnic Groups, Green Sub-Tropical Forests, Rivers, Bamboo Bridges + Misty Mornings
• Traditional Sherpa Villages in the Khumbu Region
• Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries | Lawudo, Pangboche, Namche, Thame + Khumjung Gompas
• Climbing Gokyo Ri (5360m) + Himalayan Panoramas
• Sublimely Beautiful Gokyo Lakes Valley
• Spectacular High Trail to Phortse
• Saturday Market at Namche Bazaar
• Rare Himalayan Wildlife
• Breathtaking Sunrises + Sunsets over Himalayan Peaks
• Traditionally Sherpa Villages in the Thame Valley + the Khumbu
• Saturday Market at Namche Bazaar
• Rare Himalayan Wildlife + Birds
• Wonderful, Warm Sherpa lodges
• Cultural Immersion into the Tibetan Sherpa Culture
• Extra Acclimatization + Exploration Days
• Special Kamzang Menus freshly prepared from the Sherpa lodges
• THE BEST of Trekking in the Everest Region + the Nepal Himalaya!

Client Highlights
The best in the Everest region! Some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Nepalese Himalayas. A window on the traditional villages of Sherpas and the “gompas” (monasteries), their Buddhist culture of mountains as well their summits and sacred valleys. The Everest area is a very spiritual and colorful place. From November to December 2015, I had the chance to spend a month in Nepal. I first spent a few days in Kathmandu. I walked from Swayambhunath (Temple of the Apes) to Pashupatinath (the temple where the cremation ceremonies take place). I also spent a lot of time strolling through the streets of Thamel, crowded with vendors of outdoor clothing and Nepalese items of all kinds, Buddha statuettes and prayer rolls of all shapes and sizes. Then I flew to Lukla, at the base of the Himalayan mountains, where I spent a little more than three weeks hiking around the world’s highest mountains. To name but a few places: Namche, a wonderful mountain perched village, Chuckung, where for the first time I reached the summit of a mountain at more than 5000 meters, Gorak Shep, at the base of Mount Everest and where I climb Kala Patthar (5600 meters), the Cho La and Renjo La … and much more! Thanks to Kim and the entire team of Kamzang Journeys (kamzang.com) for allowing me to discover this wonderful place!
– Adam D, Everest High Passes Trek 2015
Watch the Video!
Everest High Passes Trek | Adam D on Vimeo

I just returned from the Everest High Passes Trek with Kamzang Journeys in November. AWESOME!! A trek I will never forget, it was for me a dream come true to travel to Nepal and see the beautiful Himalayan Mountains. The villages, customs, food, and the beautiful people of Nepal made it a truly fabulous experience. It was not always easy however very achievable thanks to Kim Bannister, Lhakpa and their team (Junar, Suresh and Yam) from Kamzang Journeys. Their attention to detail made for a very safe and comfortable trek. There was always someone watching over me and giving me support and encouraegement when I needed. Kim’s experience in trekking, understanding of the customs and tradition and not to mention her comprehensive medical knowledge was invaluable.
– Diana P (Australia), Everest High Passes Trek 2015

A big thank you to Kim and Lhakpa for another unforgettable trip! This trip was everything and more than I expected. Their local knowledge (we visited and had morning tea at Lhakpa’s sister AND his mother’s house!!) is outstanding and they seem to know everyone. As usual there were the extra touches that only Kim does – freshly brewed coffee each morning, our own gas heater for the dining rooms, hot water bottles, afternoon snacks, the travelling library and the best rooms at every tea house we stayed in. Envious looks from other trekkers followed us around the Khumbu! I can’t recommend Kamzang Journeys enough. This was the third trek I have done with this company and am already booked to do my fourth. Do your research and you will find this is the most organized, value for money, friendly, and most importantly, safe company you can trek with. Happy trekking!
– Lorraine H (Australia), Everest High Passes Trek 2014

Simply the best! As a very experienced Himalayan trekker who just did three straight trips with Kamzang Journeys I can’t imagine booking a trek with any other company in the future. Kim and Lhakpa are so experienced, so professional and so much fun to walk with, and their attention to every detail, like hot water bottles for our sleeping bags every cold night on the High Everest trek, is amazing. Even after Kim broke her wrist coming down from the Renja La she was focused on making sure we were all okay. Amazing!
– Tom B (Canada), Wild Ladakh & Zanskar Trek, Upper Dolpo to Mustang Trek & Everest High Passes Trek 2014

A great trek! Kim and Lhakpa are a great partnership, together with their very experienced Nepali support crew they were able to look after every need of the 10 trekkers that completed this journey. They go the extra mile in many different ways: a very good acclimatization programme, coffee, teas & extra snacks before & with meals, gas heater to ensure cold mornings in tea houses were more comfortable, plus incredible support while trekking. This team are very well respected in the Everest region & rightfully so. I would recommend this company and tour to anyone wanting “something more” the standard Everest Base Camp tour offered by so many companies.
– Graham P (New Zealand), Everest High Passes Trek 2014

My walking highlights of the trek are numerous, and not obviously the ones I had identified before the trek: Aba Dablam base camp – what a lovely heat trap and seeing the climbers very near the summit, Cho La Pass, and the Renjo Pass were true adventures especially the glacier of the former, the views from Gokyo Ri, Chhukhung Ri, and Kala Pattar. One of the best treks was that from Thame to Lhakpa’s mother’s home at Mende and then on to Namche Bazaar. There were fantastic views around every corner, and the potato pancakes were something I shall remember for a long time. Fantastic hospitality as well. I shall also remember my visit to Everest Base Camp, particularly the time down in amongst the ice pillars. Upon leaving the pillars to go back, and standing at the last one, I shall always remember the tremendously loud, deep, resonant ‘crack’ of the ice moving somewhere that sounded very near to me!
– David Reynolds (UK), Everest High Passes Trek 2012

Thank you for a GREAT TREK! You, Lhakpa and the guides really did us proud! Would I recommend your High Passes of Everest trek to others? A definite YES! You took us to all the best view points in the Khumbu where we had FANTASTIC VIEWS of Everest and so many other beautiful mountains. Your itinerary also gave us longer at the high points (eg Gorak Shep and Gokyo) than most companies. The guides were excellent doing everything they could to make our holiday truly memorable. They were ready to help with an arm when needed and so patient and smiley when we were slow. Lhakpa was always working hard to ensure everything ran smoothly, so much so that it was easy not to notice all he did, which included using his contacts to secure us flights out of Lukla. But, Kim, you made the trek! Once you had had your morning coffee, you were always smiling, working hard, encouraging us and sorting out our various ailments! It was lovely to see you with the locals, including Lhakpa’s mother in her traditional Sherpa’s house. Young and old they were all so pleased to see you. Apart from the maountains and the views my lasting memory will be of you with your enthusiasm and SMILE!
– Martin S (UK), Everest High Passes Trek 2012

Kim Bannister Photo Gallery | Trip + Trek Photos
Kim Bannister Photography

Travel Reading | Enhance Your Trip!
Travel Books

Online Articles + Documentaries on Everest Region

Everest High Passes Trek | Adam D on Vimeo

Glacier Works – David Breshear’s Interactive Site

Battle of the Himalayas: The Fight to Film Everest – BBC Four Documentary

1953: First Footsteps – Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzin Norgay – National Geographic Adventure

Sherpas | The True Heroes of Mount Everest – Film

On Mount Everest, Sherpa Guides Bear the Brunt of the Danger – NPR

Lakes Expanding Dangerously in Everest Glacier – BBC

Rivers of Ice – Vanishing Glaciers – BBC

Everest – National Geographic Adventure

Climbing Everest Then & Now – National Geographic Adventure

Everest Revealed: Photos by Renan Ozturk – National Geographic Adventure

Flying a Drone at Everest – Himalayan Aerials

The Everest Avalanche 2014 – YouTube

Living Through the Himalayan Thaw – Himalayan Times

Nepal Quake Caused Minimal Damage to Everest Trails – Reuters

Nepal Before & After the Earthquake – New York Times

Jan Morris: No One Else Needs to Climb Everest – New Statesman

Airport Near Everest is its own Perilous Adventure – New York Times

Sherpa – They Die, We Go Home – New York Times

On Mount Everest – Surviving and Earthquake & an Avalanche – New York Times Lens Blog

Climate Model Suggests Glaciers Could Nearly Disappear – New York Times

Forty Years of Everest – YouTube

Nepal Drains Dangerous Everest Lake – BBC

The Epic of Everest – BBC Four

The Everest | Solu Khumbu Region

Nepal’s Solu Khumbu, widely known as the Everest region, is a diverse region of spectacular Himalayan panoramas, diverse flora including blue pine, juniper and silver fir, rare wildlife and some of the highest mountains on the planet. The Khumbu is the original Sherpa homeland, a region of Nyigma-pa Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, ancient chortens, lung-ta (prayer flags), glaciers, Himalayan passes, high pasture lands and once traditional villages which are now often (but not always) crowded with trekking lodges and colorful shops. The region is dominated by the sacred Khumbila peak, which rises above Khumjung and Kunde, two of the larger villages in the area, with Mount Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam towering over the village from the opposite side. The elevation of the Khumbu ranges from 2840 meters to the 8848 meter summit of Mount Everest.

There are several ways to enter the Khumbu, the most commonly trekked part of the Everest region. Most people fly into the Hillary Airstrip in Lukla (2840 meters), and the second most popular route is via Jiri, a diverse trek of 7-8 days crossing numerous smaller passes and ridges, and trekking through traditional Hindu, Rai and Tamang villages. The third route is via the old mountaineering trail of Shipton, Hillary and all of the original mountaineers starting in Tumlingtar (or before that, way back when), following the Aun River for a few days before veering west and trekking in very hilly, beautiful country through sprawling Rai villages until the Jiri route is intersected. The last route is via the Rolwaling Tashi Laptsa Pass, a challenging six day trek from Barabise and Chariot, through the realm of the goddess Tashi Tseringma (according to Sherpa mythology), which crosses the somewhat treacherous Tashi Laptsa Pass (5755 meters) to reach the Thame valley. The last route is from Tibet, a trail not open to Westerners and often closed even for Nepalis and Tibetans. From the Tibetan side traders cross the Nangpo La (5710 meters) and trek down several days through a glacial valley where Sherpas have their ‘doksas’, or seasonal herding villages, to reach Thame and Namche Bazaar.

The Everest (Khumbu) region is entered through the Sagarmatha National Park at the top end of Monjo (where Kim taught school in 2001). The Sagarmartha National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site since 1979, an area of 1148 square meters which ranges from 2840 – 8840 meters. The buffer zone was established in the late 90s to give some income to the villages between Lukla and Monjo. Namche Bazaar is a bustling old trading village at the fork of three valleys, situated in an amphitheater of peaks. The far left valley leads to Thame valley and Tibet, the middle valley leads to Gokyo Lake and the far right valley leads to the Khumbu Glacier, formed during the last great Ice Age approximately 500,000 years ago, and Everest Base Camp. This valley branches off to the right about half way up and leads to the Chhukhung Valley and the base of the Island Peak climbing route.

The Khumbu region, with a population of about 4000, gets from 10-20,000 Western trekkers per year, and probably double that amount of Nepali staff and local porters coming to the markets at Lukla and Namche with their goods to sell.

Mount Everest, also referred to in Sherpa and Tibetan as Chomolungma, was recognized as the highest peak in the world in 1856 by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India (it was until then known as Peak XV). Everest was named after Sir George Everest, the British Surveyor General of India, by the Royal Geographical Society in 1865.

The first mountaineers to attempt to climb Everest were British, and the first attempt made in 1921 from the Tibetan side as Nepal was then closed to foreigners. This 1921 expedition reached 7000 meters on the North Col, the 1922 expedition climbing on the North ridge reached 8320 meters but tragically 7 porters were killed in an avalanche while descending. George Mallory & Andrew Irvine attempted to climb Everest on 8 June, 1924, perhaps even submitting before disappearing. Mallory’s body was discovered in 1999 on the North Face of Everest, at 8155 meters; the question of whether or not they summited Everest still remains a mystery.

Nearly 30 years later Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary succeeded in making the first official ascent of Everest, climbing on the southeast ridge route in 1953 to reach the summit of Chomolungma together!

Notable Himalayan peaks include Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Nuptse (7861m), Makalu (8462m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Ama Dablam (6812m), Mera Peak (6476m), Island Peak (6189m), Cho Polu (6735m), Khumbutse (6640m), Kwongde Ri (6187m), Thamserku (6623m), Kang Guru (6981m), Kusum Kanggaru (6367m), Changtse (7580m) & Cholatse (6440m).

Sherpa Quotes + Superstitions
Folk Culture of Tibet –  Norbu Chophel

 – Whistling inside the house, especially in the kitchen and family store-house is absolutely avoided by Tibetans. This is not the place to whistle your favorite tunes because it is believed that whistling causes all the food stuff to run out quickly.

 – Whistling at night is also discouraged because it is believed to arouse ghosts and other nocturnal spirits. If a woman whistled at night she might be accused of being a witch. In general, whistling at night is abhorred. It is believed to invite ghosts and other malignant spirits.”

 – Tibetans believe that after eating garlic one is unfit to visit temples, monasteries and other  holy places for 7 days, the length of time it is needed to get rid of the garlic stink.

 – To accidently step on excrement or get in anywhere on one’s body, or to be splashed by bird-droppings are believed to be auspicious signs.

 – In all the realms of existence, there is no enemy like a wife, no prison like worldly existence and no watchman like one who is related to you by blood.

Arun Salpa Region

This trek is a feast of green, fertile valleys, dramatic snow-peaks, traditional mountain villages and diverse cultures, a real journey through eastern Nepal starting in one of Nepal’s many remote outposts, Tumlingtar. Many of the inhabitants of the middle hills below Lukla are Sherpas, the tough, devout Tibetan Buddhist mountaineers of international repute. They live mainly in the upper Solu region (and of course are the main inhabitants of the Khumbu region), farming barley, wheat and potatoes, tending their livestock, visiting their gompas, celebrating many Buddhist and Tibetan/Sherpa festivals and of course, trekking and climbing the high peaks in the Khumbu region.

Their neighbors, the Rai, tend to live further south, in clean, orderly, fertile villages with lots of opportunity to farm rice, millet and corn. Their dress is different from the Sherpas, who one might mistake for Tibetans; the Rai woman wear colorful lungis, and are adorned with golden nose rings while the men wear woolen vests, their khuri knives hanging at their sides. They often travel for work, many join the army, and you will meet them often working as guides, ‘sherpas’, cooks or porters in the trekking industry, many opening restaurants and lodges as they become more wealthy. The Rai, like the Sherpa, are of Tibetan descent but speak a Tibeto-Burmese dialect which is still only orally transmitted. Their religion, called Mudum, is an ancient form of animism, worshiped in the home, with shamans and holy men (dhami) enacting the many rituals and ceremonial rites. They are considered some of the oldest inhabitants of Nepal, and are of the Kirat ethnic group.

After our trek through the lush Salpa Arun Valley, we continue north through Sherpa country towards the border of Tibet, trekking up to the spectacular Gokyo valley lakes under clear, blue December skies. Once in Gokyo, there is lots of exploring to be done, Gokyo Ri to climb, and spectacular viewpoints for sunrise and sunset. We spend Christmas day at a wonderful lodge in Goyko, right on the lake. We usher in the New Year in Phortse, at one of our favorite lodges, after trekking down a little used trail on the eastern side of the valley, a wonderful route topped by 8000-meter snow peaks.

En route, we visit many of Kim and Lhakpa’s favorite spots in the Everest region; Lhakpa comes from Thame, just west of Namche, and has relatives throughout the Khumbu, and Kim has been coming to the Everest region for years, her home away from home. We’ll stay in cozy Sherpa lodges, stop at old Sherpa villages off the usual tourist trail, visit Buddhist gompas in Pangboche and Tengboche, and experience the real Solu Khumbu during our favorite month in the Everest region.